Enclosure questions here.

[DeesBalls]

I want to put all my current questions/thoughts into 1 thread, and that will all go here, the "huge building project" thread i want people to post some pics and that is where i will update on that.


Questions-
1. how would you all heat the cages? UTH, Flexwatt, or heat emmitter?
Im leaning towards using UTH, or Flexwatt with plexiglass over top to prevent water and fecis getting on the heat source.

2. If i do use the UTH with plexiglass over the source, should i screw it down, and seal it, or just lay it over then put the bedding over top? what if i need to replace flexwat?

3. doors? How do you all put your doors on, slidding, folding down, folding up?
Im doing mine i belive so i can unlock them from the TOP and they door will fold down...


thanks for looking and reading, and please let me have your input here!

[ZARADOZIA]

Originally Posted by LiL_Boa

Questions-
1. how would you all heat the cages? UTH, Flexwatt, or heat emmitter?
Im leaning towards using UTH, or Flexwatt with plexiglass over top to prevent water and fecis getting on the heat source.

2. If i do use the UTH with plexiglass over the source, should i screw it down, and seal it, or just lay it over then put the bedding over top? what if i need to replace flexwat?

Everyone will have different opinions on how to heat the viv. The bottom line is making sure the temps are correct and that the baby won’t get burned, become sick, etc.

Since Sasha’s viv is large, I had to play with different combinations of heating to get the temps just right. You will need to do the same.

However, if using an UTH, you should place it UNDER the tank. Placing it inside is (in my opinion) entirely too dangerous. The reason I say this is because if it has faulty wiring, you could electrocute your baby or yourself. If it gets wet it will hold and incubate bacteria possibly causing your baby to get sick. If placed inside and covered/sealed, think of how much work would go into removing it when it stops working and must be replaced. These are worse case scenarios. For me, it is easier to play Devil’s advocate and think about the worse possible effect and then avoid it.

I don’t have an opinion on flexwat or heat tape since I have never used either.

The dimensions of Sasha’s viv are 3ft long, 3ft tall, 2ft wide.
The dimensions of the stand are 41 inches long, 27 inches tall, 28 inches wide.

Sasha’s Viv: (Ignore the chains, we are in the process of building 2 hanging shelves and a 3 tier waterfall with filtration system.)



Heat Lamps: On the left is a ceramic heat lamp and on the right is a UV. The UV cycles on/off in 12 hr increments to simulate day/night. Ambient temp is 83 with UV on and 79-80 off. Temp on the left is 94 (UTH). Center temp is 82. Temp on the right is 76-80. (The UV is for the plants)



UTH: Is affixed under the tank with a wire mesh. There is approximately 2 inches of space between the UTH and the tank bottom. If you decide to use a UTH, I would advise testing the temps before using it with your baby. Plug it in for 12 hours and use a probe to find out exactly how hot it becomes. Some become as hot as 110 F and with bedding the temp can raise even higher.

Originally Posted by LiL_Boa

3. doors? How do you all put your doors on, slidding, folding down, folding up?
Im doing mine i belive so i can unlock them from the TOP and they door will fold down

Door: I bought the viv from a breeder and it came with the door on the side. Personally, I would prefer two doors on the front that open outwards. Mainly because I am short and I have to use a step stool to reach inside when I am cleaning it. If the viv was shorter, like a fish tank, I would prefer one that opened on top, like a fish tank, as long as I could reach down into it without a step stool.
The placement of the door is really a personal preference. What would be more comfortable for you when you are cleaning out the viv?

[DeesBalls]

Thanks alot, it looks very nice!! that also for the tips on the flexwatt. i have decided i think to make it 36''x18''x12'' and use a CHE (ceramic heat emmitter) to heat.

[millertime89]

something to consider, CHEs and heat lamps will dry out the air.

[DeesBalls]

Originally Posted by millertime89

something to consider, CHEs and heat lamps will dry out the air.

with the enclosures being all sealed up, except a few vents, it wont dry it out as much as with a screen top... but i am leaning towards a rhp.

[red ink]

This how I have mine set up...

1. how would you all heat the cages? UTH, Flexwatt, or heat emmitter?
All of mine are heated by CHEs, controlled by wall mounted analogue thermostats for large enclosures (gecko enclosures via heat cords)

2. If i do use the UTH with plexiglass over the source, should i screw it down, and seal it, or just lay it over then put the bedding over top? what if i need to replace flexwat?
I only use UTH (heat cords) for my racks/gecko enclosures, these are controlled by a probe thermostat. I have the tubs sitting on top of the heat cords and the probe undeneath the tubs 2 inches away from the heat cord layout.

3. doors? How do you all put your doors on, slidding, folding down, folding up?
Im doing mine i belive so i can unlock them from the TOP and they door will fold down...
I have a combination of both top opening enclosures and enclosures with sliding glass doors.

top/roof opening gecko viv


Sliding glass gecko and snake stack (snake enclosure at the bottom heated by a CHE connected to a thermostat, 4 gecko cubes up top with heat cords under a peice of slate and buried in a sand substrate)


Top opening lizard enclosure (Heated by a CHE connected to a thermostat for night heat, Daytime heat supplied by a MVB)


Lizard/quarantine/infirmary stack (top enclosure is top opening, bottom is sliding glass. Enclosures heated by bulbs during the day, CHEs at night attached to wall mounted thermostats)


Snake stack (with air gap to prevent heat transfer, both enclosures sliding glass and heated by CHE controlled by thermostats)


Gecko rack heated by heat cords controlled by probe thermostats.


Cheers

[DeesBalls]

very nice looking racks, i do know that you put the tub on the UTH, but these being made out of wood, i dont think the heat would penetrate into the enclosure...

i plan on CHE for the cages, but as of now, i dont know... i wll be making the larger 4x2x2 tanks 1st, so i have plenty of time to think it over.

[red ink]

Originally Posted by LiL_Boa

very nice looking racks, i do know that you put the tub on the UTH, but these being made out of wood, i dont think the heat would penetrate into the enclosure...

i plan on CHE for the cages, but as of now, i dont know... i wll be making the larger 4x2x2 tanks 1st, so i have plenty of time to think it over.

As I don't trust heat mats and none of my friends do either (we all use cords)... what you could do is make your own "mat" with heat cord and tiles. What you do is get a 5mm tile to sized to what you need it for (my mates use 45cm x 45cm tiles) and attach the heat cord to the bottom of the tile with aluminium tape and presto you have a safe no fire risk heat mat. It can be then placed anywhere you like on the enclosure floor or on a shelf. For further finite control attach a probe thermostat to the top of it and set it to what ever temp you require.

[DeesBalls]

that sounds like a good idea as well, i may do something like that so i can keep the height down to 1inch... thanks alot!

[scottyy]

I would recommend a radiant heat panel. they seem pretty nice from the one that i use.

[Jenn_06]

all my snakes have Flexwatt but my GTPs they are radiant heat panels and never had a problem with any of them.

[DeesBalls]

my beardie has 2 bulbs...

my snakes will have flexwat with in an enclosure type of thing... (i have a thread on it) "flexwat in melamine enclosure"