Ball Python stress?

new2herp01 · 09-30-09, 02:59 PM

I just recently took my BP Lola to the vet for something yet when I brought her back home she seemed listless. She also seemed to do a little huff every now and then. she is also staying in corners. Is this normal? I'm not handling her right now as well I added more hiding places for her. is there anything else i should do or know?

Will0W783 · 09-30-09, 06:23 PM

I believe I answered your other thread on this. I really would like to help you out, but it's impossible to even speculate without knowing more about the snake. What did you take her to the vet for? That might have something to do with her behavior. A sick snake is often not as active as a healthy one; they use all their metabolic energy to heal, and most times will not eat while ill. If you can be a bit more specific on what her vet visit was for and the temps/humidity in her cage I'd be able to help you more. Also, do you have a hide box for her? If not that might be part of why she's cramming into corners- to feel more secure.

new2herp01 · 10-01-09, 05:35 PM

well I had taken her because her spectacle has rolled up but not off, she wasn't shedding so thats why i got worried but thats better now. Yes i do have hide boxes one on the warmer side and one on the cooler side. one side is 80, the other is 75 (dont worry i know this is too cool for a BP im getting that fixed asap) she hasnt shed for me yet i've had her for about three weeks now im feeding her two fuzzies weekly. as for the humidity i do spray the tank about once a day.

Will0W783 · 10-02-09, 09:02 AM

Well, the reason for the stuck spectacle is that the humidity is too low. That's also most likely why she hasn't shed. So she has shed now, or just got the spectacle removed? Some snakes when they are getting close to shed make a slight huff or wheeze, as the skin is loosening around their nostrils and it's harder to breathe.
What I would be concerned about, being as you were keeping this snake way too cold, is that she has a respiratory infection. That would explain the listlessness and also the intermittent "huff". Respiratory infections in snakes that have been housed too cool or gotten a chill during shipping/transporting are actually quite common, but they are something that needs to be taken very seriously. Honestly, you should take the snake back to the vet. Listen to her breathing- pick her up and listen to her breath. If you can hear any clicks, whistles, wheezes, etc. she definitely has an RI. In the meantime while you are waiting for a vet appointment, increase the heat and humidity in her enclosure. You want the temps on the hot side to be 92-93 degrees and the cool side to be around 85. You should also soak the snake daily for 10-20 minutes in warm water. My vet recommends the soak water for a sick snake be 93-95 degrees fahrenheit (33-35 Celsius). This will stimulate its immune system and allow its body to start fighting the infection, but RI's require antibiotics to be cured, so don't wait too long.

If you hold her and notice that her breathing seems completely normal- no clicks, whistles, etc, you might be ok with just the increased heat and humidity. I've dealt with several RI's in my time of keeping snakes, and the high heat/warm soaks combined with antibiotics always cured them more quickly than expected. Best of luck.

new2herp01 · 10-04-09, 11:50 AM

her eyes have gotten cloudy so she is going to shed soon. i have quite a large tank (59 inches long x18 wide x16 1/2tall) and screen top. now Im not too sure how to get the temps and humidity up. I have a bottom tank heater as well as a 100 watt dayglo uva bulb and a 13watt uvb light and still the temp seems to stay low. Ive gotten in the habit of misting the tank at least twice a day. plus hides on the cold and warm side. What else can i do?

Will0W783 · 10-04-09, 01:47 PM

You might not need to mist it twice a day- once is probably sufficient. The problem with BPs is that too much humidity almost guarantees a respiratory infection (RI) while too little guarantees dehydration and poor sheds. You might want to try an undertank heater to get the temps up, also house her in the warmest room in your house or apartment. What size is Lola? For most snakes a bigger enclosure is better, but this is not the case with BPs. I house my adult BPs in 5-foot x 2-foot x 1-foot melamine enclosures. My female is 5+feet and my male is 4.5 feet and both are easily 5-20 pounds of weight. This is the absolute biggest enclosure I would use for them. BPs do better in smaller enclosures, as they tend to feel more secure and less stressed and it is far easier for you to keep the temps up. If Lola is an adult that cage size is about right; however, if she is less than 3.5 feet long you'd be much much better off keeping her in something smaller until she grows. A 20-gallon is fine for a juvenile BP, a 10-gallon is good for a hatchling (up to 2 feet). When I first got him, I housed my male BP, my first snake, in a 55-gallon tank and had a heck of a time keeping humidity up. I misted it three times a day and he had a huge water bowl, but he had increasingly poor sheds, was a very picky eater (2 live white mice every other week..no more, no less), and had several retained eyecaps that required a series of antibiotic ointments, vet visits, and months of stress and fear. I then moved him to a 30-gallon breeder tank (basically 3.5'x2'x1) and he thrived. His sheds improved, the humidity and temps were much easier to maintain, he seemed more relaxed, and he ate f/t anything. He is now in the melamine enclosure which is great for humidity. You might also give your snake a humid hide- basically a box lined with moist moss (frog moss like sphagnum works great) and covered so she can hide in there and keep her moisture up.

new2herp01 · 10-04-09, 07:10 PM

Great info willow plus I went to an expo in the city and got some great advice too. I've now half'ed her enclosure and the temps went up right away. except now I can definatley here a little wheeze when she breathes.

"Some snakes when they are getting close to shed make a slight huff or wheeze, as the skin is loosening around their nostrils and it's harder to breathe."

This may be why she was, and is continuing to, wheeze a little. She's def going to shed soon. But should I still be worried?

Will0W783 · 10-05-09, 08:55 AM

IMHO, don't mess around with the possibility of RI. A snake with an RI that is caught early will almost always heal well, but if it progresses to pneumonia they can die. I'd take her back to the vet, and have them check for RI, and I'd do it as soon as possible. If she does have an RI she will need antibiotics. I'd be willing to put my money on her having an RI, due to you saying her enclosure was too cold for a while. In the meantime, while you are waiting for your appointment, soak her each night in warm water (93-95 degrees fahrenheit (33-35 Celsius) for 10-15 minutes and keep the tank warmer- at around 92 or so on the warm side to stimulate the immune system. Your Dayglo light is, I believe, full spectrum, and that can help as well. I have successfully treated several RIs with the warm water soak, warm cage, antibiotics combo regime. It can't hurt to err on the safe side and take her to the vet.

mykee · 10-05-09, 02:34 PM

In the case of an RI, get those temps up a full ten degrees.

new2herp01 · 10-07-09, 09:36 AM

Well all seems well! her enclosure is smaller the temps are up and no more wheezing or whistling. I will get some pics up soon of her enclosure!

Thanks everyone

new2herp01 · 10-16-09, 02:53 PM

Well now I have a bit of a problem. how do I help with left over shed? I've tried soaking. I've done the damp pillowcase for 24 hrs and still there is left over skin. Is it bad if its left there? I'm all out of ideas