Ball Python Questions

[Nicolak]

All right, I've looked up a bunch of stuff and I feel I am prepared to get my first Ball Python this Sunday. I have read different things on different care sheets though, so I was wondering if you guys could clear some things up for me.

(1) Heating. I know about the "cool" spot, hot spot, air temp, etc. But it's what to use to heat the thing. Should I use a mat and UTH (under tank heater)? Mat & light clamp or just a light? Some places say just a mat is okay, some places say just a light is okay, and some say both is better.

(2) Feeding. I know about feeding frozen, but apparently this snake only eats live small rats. I know the risks in feeding live, but I was wondering how difficult it'd be to switch over. And if I put him separately in an enclosure with the rat and watch and make sure he eats it, is that safe? I have no experience with this sort of thing so I am asking before I make such a big commitment.

(3) Housing. Other than substrate, thermometers, hygrometers, 2 hides, water dish. Is there anything else I should include in his aquarium?

(4) Noise. How much noise can Ball Pythons tolerate? Would a tv (no surround) stress them out as long as it's on moderate in the same room?

[Chu'Wuti]

1. UTH is great if you can get it to 95 deg F and include an insulating layer over that spot so the BP doesn't get burned. If you can't get it to 95, adding a ceramic heat lamp can help.

2. You can switch over to F/T, but start out with live since that's what your BP will be used to. Trying to switch right after a stressful move to a new environment is probably too much. We can address switching in more detail in a month or so, after you're sure the BP is going to eat for you.

3. Someone is going to freak out about the aquarium, so be prepared. However, you can, and many people have, kept snakes successfully in an aquarium for many years, I among them. Start with paper towels--white--for substrate and keep it that way for at least a month to assess for parasites, proper digestion & elimination, etc. The thermometers & hygrometers should be digital, and place the probes on the substrate and/or in the hides so you'll know the temps/humidity where the snake will actually be. Something to climb on would be good, as long as you can attach it securely--if you can move, the BP will move it.

4. We have our BP in the family room where the TV is. It doesn't bother him at all. We feed him while we're watching TV. However, every snake has its own personality and quirks.

Good luck! and Welcome to the forum!

[citysnakes]

with any heat source you should use a thermostat to control it. if you plan to use a UTH then you need to make sure that the air temperature inside the enclosure is at least 80 degrees. if its not then you need to add a lamp to heat up the air. if you can create the warm and cool end temps with only a heat lamp then no UTH is necessary.

if you cannot get a thermostat then i would suggest using only a heat lamp because it would be easier to monitor and control the temperature by raising or lowering the lamp and/or increasing the bulb wattage. a UTH will only create a surface temperature and because it is stuck on the bottom of the tank the only way to control its temperature would be with a thermostat or a rheostat.

Sandy made some pretty good points although i dont really agree with using an isulating layer over a UTH and find it rather unnecessary especially since any UTH should be properly controlled with a thermostat and almost every snake will make its way directly on top of the glass(or plastic).

and the tv shouldnt even be an issue.

hope this helps.

[Nicolak]

Right now I have 3 stick-on thermometers (one on the cool side, one on the warm side, one to measure the top and getting another to measure the bottom). I should purchase one with a probe though? Do you know of any good online stores (preferably Canadian) that sell these?

Thanks.

[Chu'Wuti]

Forgot about the thermostat--that's what I get for being in a hurry. Thanks for adding that important info, Julian! and you are, of course, absolutely correct that a thermostatically controlled UTH won't be a burn hazard.

That's what I love about this website--with all of us pitching in, we end up with good info!

[Kmef07]

Ditch the stick on thermometers. they measure the temps of the glass they are stuck on not the air.

[HMT]

yeah, stick on thermometers are useless. Mine pulled his off the tank many times before I gave up. (and his hydrometer usually ended up floating in the water dish... lots of good that did)

Since you said you're using an aquarium... pay careful attention to the type of lid you use. Most aquarium lids are for fish or for lizards, and make controlling the humidity a real problem. And make sure the lid is very secure- just browsing through these forums will show you how many of us have lost snakes by mis-judging how much they can lift!

And mine is also in the TV room... doesn't bother him at all.
good luck!

[Chu'Wuti]

Good point about security & humidity of the tops, HMT--You can use screen tops, but buy good locking clamps to hold them down--bricks or books will NOT do!

Rule to live by: If you can move it, your snake can move it; if you can lift it, your snake can lift it.

And yes, I agree with everyone else about stick-on thermometers. Digital with probes you can place where your snake will be.

[turk621]

nicolak i use accurites they have a probe and read two temps i but the probe under the hot hide and place the unit on the cold side they sell them at lowes they also read humidity