Blood Python Feeding priblem

The Gawd · 09-03-05, 02:41 PM

Hi I have a nice size blood apx. 3.5 feet in at work and nice and fat. Iv tried to feed her twice now in the last month and she didnt have anything to do with the first meal, a hamster. and she killed the second meal, a gerble, but didnt eat it. temps are 88Fhot side, and 82Fon cool side. shes on a very moist cypress mulch, cork bark for a hide, and a large water dish. what do these guys like to eat? i was thinking mice are to small for this dude, I would try a rat but i cant get quite get an appropriate size one at the moment, their either to small or to big, Any help would be greatly appreciated, im not worried yet, just looking for insight from you blood pros. Thank You

Al

gonesnakee · 09-03-05, 04:24 PM

Probably doesn't want to accept Hamsters & Gerbils because chances are it has never been offered them before. I would not offer either to it anymore & would stick to Rats, probably what it has been feeding on anyway. Mark

YoungBuck · 09-03-05, 06:54 PM

I agree with Mark. Stick to rats~! Also...snakes tend to stick to hamsters or gerbils once fed them and you don't want that~! Trust me~! Hamsters and Gerbils are just too small~! IMO you should be feeding the Blood a large or jumbo rat. Pretty soon, depending on the size of the blood you might even want to opt into feeding it small rabbits. Sounds like you are feeding live as well. Try F/T (Frozen/Thawed) rats. Hope this helps~!

Good luck~!

Mike

gonesnakee · 09-03-05, 07:18 PM

Mike has touched on what I haven't also, good advice, Mark

The Gawd · 09-03-05, 11:33 PM

Thanks Guys

Al

CHRISANDBOIDS14 · 09-04-05, 01:44 AM

I'd have to agree with all the above aswell.

C.

Borneoblood151 · 09-04-05, 11:14 PM

Hey,
I'm getting in on this a bit late, but bettter late than never. I just want to add my 2 cents on this topic. I agree with some of the ideas and thoughts posted on the subject and would also, recommend that you not use or therefore, feed, hamsters or gerbils to your bloods as this can lead to problems down the road, if such a diet were to become scarce. A rat is a much more accessible food source and less demanding on the keepers resources in the end too, as they are much more accessible and also, affordable. If in doubt about what size to feed or if the food in this case a rat, is too small for your blood, then feed it 2 rats instead of one to make up for the difference in size and bulk. In the end you will have a well fed blood and your wallet will thank you for it and the agravation you spare your self, will be happily rewarded by a well fed blood. Jm2c! :atom:
-Angel

hotz · 09-15-05, 07:35 PM

I realize this is probably a little late but..
Is the snake captive born or wild caught? If it's captive born I wouldn't worry about it. They can go for several months without food without negative effects. Once it settles in it will start to feed. As mentioned it may not recognize hamsters and gerbils as food. I would stick to rats.
If it's wild caught again I would stick to (dead) rats or chicks. I've acclimated several adult wild-caught bloods and they usually start feeding on dead food fairly quickly if they feel comfortable. I put my wild caughts in a cage with several inches of loose moist peat (so that it can bury itself) and leave it alone. I also wrap the cage with paper so it can't see out. Instead of a cage you could put it in a garbage pail with several inches of moist/wet peat. Try feeding at night (leave the food in overnight and don't disturb the snake at all. If feeding dead (recommended) I would also wet the rat down and probably cut the nose open. Once they start eating you can just start keeping them in a standard cage. I don't recommend feeding chicks for more than a couple of feedings because I've had problems with them but to start off stubborn wild-caught bloods as a first feeding it often does the trick.