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Old 07-03-05, 02:57 AM   #1
ninerfoelife
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Please Help Me!

[SIZE=7]i'm barely getting into this hobby, i don't really know anything. i'm wondering what are the easiest snakes(ones that stay small)to keep, what would i need to buy to keep it healthy. My concerns are to know it's habitat, feeding, Do`s & Dont`s, Temperment, lighting, Exhibit, Handling, etc. i need a lot of help, i been doing my research and haven't been too successful. i would appreciate it if you can help me out because i been wanting a snake for a long time. THANK YOU.[/SIZE]
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Old 07-03-05, 12:38 PM   #2
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I'm not entirely sure about what your idea of 'small' is, as different people have different conceptions of the word That being said, for a good starter snake, I'd say go with a corn snake. They feed really well (usually), don't get too big (3 - 5 feet), and their care is pretty basic. I'll give you a quick overview, and a couple websites and a book to take a look at.

Habitat: Everywhere from forest floors to fields around abandoned farms.

Substrate: I use topsoil for my corn, although the most common are newspaper, aspen shavings, carefresh, aspen or cypress mulch. Stay away from sand, unless in a mixture, because too much sand can cause problems if ingested during feeding or during shedding.

Feeding: Completely dependent on size. Feed one or two appropriately sized rodents per week until it's an adult, and then go once every two weeks. Corns are great feeders, and I have yet to have mine refuse a meal. With regards to where to feed, (others please correct me if I'm wrong) I've heard many people say feed outside of the enclosure. I don't, and I've never experienced problems. I know people who've been keeping snakes for over ten years, and they do the same, without problems. The concern is with the ingestion of substrate during feeding and causing problems. My theory is that snakes eat on dirt and leaves and sticks and stuff in the wild all the time, usually without problems. The decision is yours to make. I haven't heard of a satisfactory way (for me) to move them back into their enclosure when they're done without risking regurgiation. If someone else has a solution, please let me know.

Lighting: You don't need any extra lighting, although a UV will help brighten the colours and liven up your terrarium, if you want/have a really natural set up, or just want some extra lighting.

heating: what you use is dependant upon cage size, but the gradient should have a hot spot of around 86 - 88 degrees, and a cool spot in the mid to high 70s. I keep mine from about 75 - 91, just to give my corn a nice spread of temps to regulate his body temp.

Handling: A must, especially if you don't go with a corn and go with a larger species like a boa or a python and want it to be tame. Corns are great...the only problems I've ever had when handling my corn is being pooped on a couple times. Rather nasty. Just make sure it feels well supported, and that you keep your movements slow and smooth to minimize stress. Let the snake move, while using your hands to guide it. Don't let it get near your face. It's not as bad with a corn, but with other species of boids, the heat from your breath can induce a strike.

Do's and Don'ts: That I know of, corns are one of the easiest species to take take care of. Just make sure that feces and shed skin is removed as soon as you spot them, change water every day, and keep the gradients in the proper range (unless you're breeding, that changes everything) and you should have a long lived snake. Leave it alone for at least 24 hours after feeding, as handling after a feeding can cause regurgitation.

That should be it. Check out www.reptilia.org and www.newenglandreptile.com for some good caresheets for different species. They go over kings and pythons and such as well, to give you more info. If you like the sound of corns, check out The Cornsnake Manual, by Bill and Kathy Love. They're two prominent breeders, and know what they're talking about. Keep asking questions and reading, as knowledge is power. Good luck, and PM me if you have any more questions.

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Old 07-03-05, 12:51 PM   #3
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Quick note; if you do go with topsoil or potting soil, you HAVE TO make sure that there is no chemical insecticide or herbicide included into the mix, otherwise you'll kill your snake really quickly.

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Old 07-03-05, 04:55 PM   #4
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serpens has given a good corn overview. many lampropeltis and ratsnakes can be kept basically the same way. if an animal will take food off of tongs, substrate ingestion usually isn't a problem if you use carefresh like i do, it's mostly an aspen problem and soil problem. you could always go with newspaper, no substrate ingestion there. if it's an overnight feeder, you can put the prey on a paper plate. i would suggest against any sort of sand/soil mixture since it's a major hassle to clean, and basically gives you a dirty snake all the time. i choose carefresh do to it's low price (I use a generic substitute, vibrasorb), absorbant qualities, and easy cleaning. it looks nice too. but there really isn't anything wrong with newspaper. i don't like aspen for the aformentioned reason an cuz it tends to get everywhere, but it is also cheap and absorbant, and has the advantage of being able to be sucked up with a shop vac, which makes cleaning really easy.
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Old 07-03-05, 05:37 PM   #5
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i been looking at the websites you gave me, and i like the ball python. i read that this is a good begginer snake. Do you agree? Also what are the pricing for a ball python. would you be able to keep two snakes in a cage. THANK YOU.
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Old 07-03-05, 05:43 PM   #6
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Yes a BP is a good starter snake, in most cases they are a docile animal, easy to handle and care for, some have the "do not want to eat on your schedule behavior" but if you buy CB you should be fine 90% of the time.

Prices are anywhere from $60 and up all depends on the seller and factors like age, sex and and so on.

Never keep 2 snakes together unless for breeding purposes, any other time can and will have complications due to sex of the animals, feeding schedules and so on. If you can have 2 cages go with that idea. If only 1 cage avoid grouping them unless breeding season.
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Old 07-03-05, 05:48 PM   #7
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would bark chips be a good substrate, any other suggestions. i was planning on getting sand, but since you said it will be dirty most of the time, i'm not going to get it anymore. i don't want newspaper because i wanted to make the reptaranium how it would look in the wild.
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Old 07-03-05, 05:53 PM   #8
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I understand you like the "wild" look in the cage with a natural look. I too love that look but after trying it out years back went with the "lab" look of paper towel ot newspaper or sheet of cardboard in rolls. All these do not look natural but the clean up time was reduced by 60% if not more due to its easiness, of course if you staying with 1 or a few animals maybe the work load is not a factor, but that would be your choise. The natural look with lots of decorations and certain substrates later are more work than they are worth.

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Old 07-03-05, 05:53 PM   #9
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keeping multipal snakes in one cage is generaly not a good idea.. its hard to track helth, feeding can be a problem, and snakes are solitary animals... as well if a health issue were to arise its doubble the vet bill cause you dont know which one is sick.. other than breeding more than one snake per cage is not a good idea..

as for a ball python they are a little more finicy and can be a bigger problem to keep.. there not to forgiving with mistakes in temp, humidity, caging ect ect. and will come off eating for long periods of time.... but they are pretty docile.. if i had to choose what i thought was a better biginer snake ( from my reading) it would be the corn... but yes they still are a good biginer snake

but with enough reasearch any snake can be taken care of properly by a biginner... ( a quote from someone who had success with a GTP as a first snake...)

either way just be careful on what you get and do a TON of reasearch..


wow i guess i was a little late.. sorry..
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