frog won't eat

beyowulf · 11-26-02, 01:43 PM

I just bought a white's tree frog and I'm not sure if he's eating, I haven't seen him eat, and there are crickets in his tank that I put in there a few days ago. ( I didn't put many in, only about 7 small ones.)

I'm wondering whether I'm doing the whole setup wrong or something, so help me out if you can

I have moss in the bottom of the tank (the tank is about 15 gallons, its one of those vertical ones, with a wire-mesh lid). I forget the name of the moss, but it's a medium brown and comes in a bag. I have a really shallow bowl of water in the bottom too. There's a stick with some plastic vine twisted around it as decoration that runs the height of the tank.
my house is really cold, so i have a heat lamp and an undertank heater.

I've been spraying him and the tank with unchlorinated water once or twice per day too.....

hope you can help me

~Jen

beyowulf · 11-26-02, 01:45 PM

oh, and the frog is about 10cm long (2-3 inches?) but not really really fat. He doesn't have those lobe things over his "ears", but he's not emaciated or anything

lance · 11-26-02, 03:13 PM

not sure but he could be just gettin used to his new digs(acclimation i think it's called)
i was just at the pet store and they had a dart frog that had'nt eatin in five days just go nuts over the crixs today
so i guesse there's still hope
well i suppose someone will give you more insight thats about all i can tell you for now
good luck

Linds · 12-01-02, 09:56 PM

What are the temps? They It may be too warm with both a UTH and heat lamp. They shoudlnt have daytime temps in excess of 85, and it shoud drop to the high 60's at night. As Lance also mentioned, he may just need some time to acclimate as well, just like any herp does.

beyowulf · 12-07-02, 08:27 AM

The temps are at around 80 during the day and 65 or so at night. I'm having trouble keeping the humidity below 75 (it's either 80 or 40, depending on which lid i have on)
I heard 60 is an ideal humidity, is this true?

would the acids in the spagnum moss kill crickets? I only ask because they seem to e disappearing....I assume he's eating them, but you never know...

beyowulf · 12-07-02, 08:29 AM

also, I heard that you should feed them pinkies every once in a while to keep up calcium levels.
how would I go about doing that? I don't think dangling a pinky in front of his nose would make him eat it, since he NEVER eats when I'm looking......

Paul McCleary · 12-08-02, 11:34 AM

Hi Jen!

White's Treefrogs are found through much of Australia and Indonesia. While it might be helpful to know the geographic origin of your specimen (Indo-types or may prefer higher humidity levels), exact humidity levels aren't as critical with this species in comparison with most other frogs >>> White's are remarkably tolerant of xeric conditions. For long-term maintenance, 60 % humidity may well be ideal. To prompt breeding behaviour, the sudden onset of higher levels (ie. those created by a rain chamber etc.) are likely necessary. For years, I've maintained a group in a 35 gallon tank with a large crockery dish with water in a corner (containing a plastic plant to prevent crickets from drowning), astroturf for ground cover, some wide branches and plastic leaves for climbing/perching/hiding and a screen lid that is completely uncovered (allowing thorough ventilation). I have an overhead, green, 75 watt incandescent spotlight that is triggered by a timer to come on for 12 hours (6:00 A.M. to 6:00 P.M.) each day. A U.H.G. (usable heat gradient) of 80 - 88 degrees Fahrenheit in the day and 73 - 79 at night should suffice. For my Whites, these conditions created no mortality, no noticable pathology, outstanding vigour and overt health. Remember: this is one of the best and most resilient species of frog in captivity! No breeding yet, though I haven't tried a rain chamber, altering the temperature/photoperiod or the artificial addition of hormones. Lots of seasonal calling fron the males, however >>> especially when it's raining outside or a nearby faucet is running! There's a pseudo-scientific presumption in there somewhere - auditory triggers must play a vital role in the breeding cycle. Perhaps I should write a paper...

Another thing to bear in mind is that this species is nocturnal and - to some degree - crepuscular >>> generally, they are only active and feeding when the ambient light is dim or nonexistant. Perhaps your frog is only consuming crickets at night when you're not around to watch!

I doubt that spagnum moss is 'harmful' to crickets though I think it's an unnecessary addition for the proper husbandry of this frog species. Place some carrot and/or potato in a bottom corner of the enclosure for the crickets' sustenance >>> be sure that these pieces of vegetable are far too large for the frogs to accidently swallow. Larger specimens may be offered the occasional pinkie mouse treat, though over-consumption of this type of food item may result in excessive fatty deposits that may jeopardize their overall vigor and longevity! Personally, I 'gut-load' all crickets with nutritious foods and occasionally dust them (perhaps every 3rd or 4th feeding) with an appropriate phosphorus-free calcium supplement. For this, you can use a plastic bag ('Shake 'n Bake'!!!) or - better yet - use a plastic cricket duster specifically manufactured and marketed for this purpose (usually less than $10 CDN.). These are handy because most of the excessive supplement will remain in the container for reuse after the crickets are dispensed into the frog's enclosure. 'Pour' the crickets into a bowl inside the frog's cage to avoid undue mess created by the powdered supplement...

Jeff_Favelle · 12-08-02, 02:01 PM

I'd say print off that novel that Paul just wrote and that would be an excellent care sheet!!

Nice work Paul!

Hey, have you bred White's without the hormone injections? I'm wondering if its possible.

beyowulf · 12-11-02, 01:27 PM

Wow, thanks Paul!
I'll try changing the substrate to asroturf, and maybe adding in some broader leafed plants. I'm going to have to fiddle with the humidity to see what brings the best results. The temperature seems to be fine as far as I can tell.
He does appear to be eating, since I bought him at the last Toronto show and he is alive and not emaciated or anything.....and those crickets don't seem to last overnight in his tank either.

thanks again,
~laters
Jen

beyowulf · 12-11-02, 01:32 PM

Does anyone know how to tell the Indonesian and Australian varieties apart? I read that the way to do it is by colour, but the article wasn't really specific.
My frog (his name is Iron Chef incidentally) ranges from a bright lime green to a light forest green....he isn't one of those blue-green ones.

beyowulf · 02-27-03, 10:35 AM

just a little update on this post.....
I sent Iron Chef home to live with my mother for a few months, and he came back HUGE!! He eats really well now and seems happy and healthy (thanks guy-who-works-at-little-critters).