Question on enclosures

griz · 05-21-05, 10:55 PM

In the current stages of designing a multi-unit boa enclosures. The units themselves will be very similiar to the melamine ones described in previous posts. However, these units, ideally anyways, would be stack one on top of the other and also side by side with no space inbetween individual enclosures. I know that most of you are probably already asking yourselves about humidity and heat control issues. Well, that is where my questions come in. Since the side by side nature of this design will no allow for side or rear venting, can I install the vents in the front plexiglass? This would not interfere with removal of the glass and I do not see why this would not work (other than aesthetics). Also, since all of my boa's are of the same species and thus the same heat tolerances, can I simply heat this particular room to the desired temp instead of heating each individual cage? Lighting is not an issue as I have already figured that one out. Any suggestions/thoughts are greatly appreciated!

Griz

adam2373 · 05-21-05, 11:57 PM

well my suggestion on the venting would be to leave a lip on the upper portion of the cage and put the vents there rather then in the glass.

knight45 · 05-22-05, 12:36 AM

why can't you vent from the back?? or use both and get cross vent, there is no better then cross vent

and i would make sure the heating pads for basking are next to each other so that you can get a good gradent.
e.g. the pads for the enclosures on the right would be on the left and the pad on the left enclosures are on the right, such that the heating pads run down the middle. if you are good with tools, i could make you plan if you would like. just tell me what you want and i can make the drawings for you. (not saying you cant, just that IF you can't i can do it no prob)

powerslave65 · 05-22-05, 02:14 AM

Sure why not? As long as the snakes are exposed to the fresh air and the air is circulating. I made an enclosure for my wifes Bearded Dragon and the Front and Sides are Arcylic. I made a Template 3 inches in diameter and marked a uniform evenly spaced pattern of small holes inside of the circle, and Drilled the small holes in the arcylic with a 1/8 inch drill bit, this way it gives it a neater loofd than just a bunch of random holes. One other method I have used is to use 4 inch round plastic grates that are for the black plastic pipe used for water runoff(Home and garden,Gutter/downspouts,etc.Home Depot has them right next to the plumbing dept.Cut the hole and insert the Plastic "grates" then glued into place with cyanoacrylate ester glue.It is for acrylic and is unbelieveably strong and one of your responses said "cross vent".I would do that too. Put one high on the enclosure and the other low so that it will circulate on its own(due to warm air rising exiting at the top will pull in cooler air at the bottom.)If the enclosures will be side to side and on top of each other you can use heat tape and heat 2 enclosures at once
I bought some that is 24 inches wide and is on a roll,sold by the foot,It works very well especially on multiple units .

griz · 05-22-05, 07:19 AM

Some good suggestions! I would definately cross vent them however it has to be on the front as the rear has the lighting etc so the front is the only side I can utilize.

Question though, do I need to provide a basking spot or can I forgo this? I know it is standard to provide such but my preference is to keep the room the same temp and provide a built in enclosure inside of the cage to provide a cooler spot. In essence, the cage would be the "basking spot" with a small corner that is either better shaded or vented to provide a cooler location. I really do not want to get into running tape etc. Simpler is better in mind.

For those of you curious about the lighting, just imagine this. Two enclosures that are mounted back to front. One would be 8 inches in depth and the other 24 inches. The 8 inch enclosure has mounted in it 6 ballast type flouresent lighting fixtures standing 2 in a row vertically. The back of the 24 inch enclosure has your standard 4 inch baby board that is recessed in approximately 1/4 inch. The entire back of the 24 inch enclosure is 4x8 sheets of lighting panels (very similiar to what is found in homes but 1/4 inch in thickness). These two units are then put back to front and locked into place by latches every 12 inches. These fixtures are run in a circuit and place on a timer thuse similating the day to night transitions. For a 10 foot wide x 8 foot tall x 32 inch deep enclosure I will be out approximately $750. However, with it's melamine structure cleanup will be very easy. The light panels will provide all of my boa's with the same amount of indirect lighting daily. If I lose a bulb then I simply unlatch the unit, replace bulb and relatch. Both units will be on 2500lbs casters for easy moving. I figure with the lighting, melamine, baseboard heat on a thermostat and humidifier in the room, then I have greatly reduced the amount of work involved not too mention have a great looking cage! A quick 30 minute cleaning each morning and the occasional feeding and I am good to go with the exception of playtime.

Thoughts?

Griz

knight45 · 05-22-05, 03:38 PM

i dont think your method of heating will work to well. you would need to heat the room to 88 degrees and then some how cool one part of the cage to 82 degrees.
heat your room to 80, and put tape on one side. That is the most widely used method. and its that way for a reason