Fluoresents are usually safe as the heat is spread out over a wide area. The tubes themselves wont respresent a burn hazard, but larger snakes will knock them out unless they are covered. You still need to consider that the tubes and ballast create heat. In a large cage this is usually little concern, but in a smaller cage, plastic or wood, the wattage must be considered to ensure you won't end up with an easy bake oven.
In some cases its a good idea to mount the ballast outside the cage, and have only the tube inside. The other option is to have both the tube(s) and ballast outside using fine screening, glass or plexi as a window. I've never put lighting in a plastic cage, but if there is a fear or warping, you might want to stand it off with some type of spacer such as plexi or a little block of wood at each end.
Every 5 to 10 watts(depending on ventilation) will raise a one cubic foot volume 10 degrees above ambient. If your herp room is heated, and/or you use heat tape, everything must be taken into consideration to avoid over heating the cage.
I once visited a herper that claimed his snake wouldn't hold food down, and was always in the water and he couldn't figure out what was wrong...
It was a small cage about 2 cubic feet, and I was shocked to find it contained a 60 watt light bulb.. The temp was 135F...
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Uncle Roy
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Herpetology - more than a hobby
It's a Lifestyle
celebrating 26 years of herp breeding
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