new grey rat snake

aconto · 12-16-04, 04:35 PM

Hey I need some ideas on what to do with this new snake I got. It’s supposed to be three years old. Owner says she gets a lil snippy at first. Lol an under statement. I picked up the snake at pet store as she was just put up for adoption. I wasn’t ready. I didn’t have the tank ready I had enough repti bark to put about one inch in it. Put the snake in and went to pet store to get more supplies. Came back home and now I cant get her out of her tank. She acts like she will strike all coiled up and not being familiar with her and not wanting to get bit. Well anyone got some good suggestion on how I should work with her. Should I just let her be for a couple weeks? She may be hungry. She’s been eyeing my anoles and my gecko on other side of room.

Another problem the pervious owner was feeding her like med rats in her tank. And I think that may also be a contributing factor why she wont let me pull her out. I dont want to feed her in her tank. Thins snake makes e a lil nervious. My BP loves to be held and lets me touch his head and everything else this one is another story

lolaophidia · 12-16-04, 06:18 PM

Well, when was the snake last fed? What are your temperatures like on the cage? The snake will also definitely need some type of hide to minimize stress. I'd give the snake a few days to settle in, get it eating regularly and then start dealing with the handling issue.

As far as the not feeding in the cage thing, I have always fed my snakes in the cage. Some snakes are defensive while in the cage, but feeding out side the cage just makes them defensive when you go to pull them out of the feed box, in my experience. Plus the act of moving them to and fro can also stress them. I don't think feeding out of the cage is really neccessary, but some people have had some success with it (and if you are keeping multiple snakes in the same cage-not that I'm recommending that, you really should separate them when feeding to prevent both snakes going for the same food item).

Ok, getting the snake out of the cage for handling when it's not in the mood. What works for me is to cover the snake's head with a cloth so that it doesn't see my hand reaching for it. Then I can usually grasp it's midsection and lift it out of the cage. Most snakes calm down once they're out and start moving around. I've also used gloves for snakes that were definite biters. I now use a small hook (telescoping pocket style) when ever removing any of my snakes from their cage. Works great once you get the hang of it. I also use the hook to move the snakes in the cage, while I'm doing things like refilling water dishes or removing sheds and such.

As far as snakes loving to be held- some seem to tolerate it better than others. I don't know that they actually appreciate being captured and held by a potential predator. But I'm not a snake so I really can't be sure how they feel about it.

Working with them is the best way to get them used to handling- but some snakes never get over it... Good luck with your new snake!

aconto · 12-16-04, 06:42 PM

wel tried the towel over the head, had her in the mid section. had her out and away from the tank. she starts air striking nemerous times wippin tail did not want to be held. I had to but here down on the ground and finish puttinf her substraight in and her hide. Then the fun began trying to pick her up she stuck at my leg at the filing cabinet and the book case. I managed to pick her up by her tail and put her bank in her cage while she was air striking.

I will just try and feed her a live med rat tonight and let her be for a few weeks. Hope she mellows out. My gf is lil worried about me having a mean snake in the house i have a 2 and 8 yr old and they love to hold my ball.
*sigh* Its a great lookin snake.

lolaophidia · 12-16-04, 06:57 PM

Here's what I do with the bitey ones when I'm cleaning their tanks- into the pillowcase! I close the top with a knot or a rubberband if I'm feeling less coordinated. They calm down and I don't get bit (I really hate getting bit, it just startles the bejeasus out of me!). Almost all of my snakes start to "act up" if I put them on the floor. I think they see this as their best chance to make a run for it (vs. in my hand or on the hook).

I'd be careful feeding her a live rat. They can really put a hurting on a snake (I've seen the tragic photos). Not pleasant, but do you have any experience "thumping" rats? You hold them by the tail and strike the base of their skull with a blunt solid object. Rats have pretty sturdy skulls, so it takes a good strike to stun them. They also have a tendancy to come to and then they're quite upset. Most snakes will eat stunned, twitching prey even if they're used to live. I avoid feeding live prey whenever possible to avoid my snakes and myself from getting bitten by rodents. I've been bitten by more mice and rats (and gerbils and hamsters) than snakes. If you can get the snake switched to frozen/thawed- it makes life much easier.

At least you have one snake the kids can hold if they want to. I've got 18 and they all vary in temperament. I can handle all of them, but a couple will leave their mark if I'm not careful. I don't blame them, I'd probably bite somebody that grabbed me too.

aconto · 12-16-04, 07:13 PM

well i would like to have her on f/t rats like my BP but from what i was told all this snake has ever eaten is live unstuned so i will do that and get her switched over once shes calmed down. i dont want to put a stunned rat in there and her not eat it ... dont really feel like stickin my had in there any time soon.

im gunno go back to the pet store and see bout gettin the prev owners adress or phone number. cause if i didnt know better i would think this was a wild caught snake.

Another thing when the owner pulled the snake out at the store the snake crapped all over the floor. really runny liquidy substance... gettin her worked up she did the same in her cage... is this normal... my bp has had really solid stool

aconto · 12-16-04, 07:34 PM

here she is pissed off

lolaophidia · 12-16-04, 07:52 PM

Another suggestion when offering prey items- tongs. They keep your hand away from the food and lessen the chance of of a "SFE" stupid feeding error. Where the snake is going for the prey item and latches onto your hand instead.

Rat snakes are quite different animals than Ball Pythons. With Ball Pythons, they tend to be slow, timid animals (curl up in a ball when threatened and all that), though there are exceptions to this. Rat snakes tend to have a lot more defensive behaviors, like striking, tail rattling, and musking. Musking is basically when a snake defecates to get you to release it. Usually works too!

I've had some really docile rat snakes and some really defensive ones. Talking with the previous owner is a good idea, to get more information about how the snake was kept and what it's origins are. If the animal is captive bred, then the behavior is probably just defensive. A trip to the vet and a fecal test (you'll need to collect some of the "matter" fresh or refrigerated for less than 24 hours for the vet) can eliminate the possibility that the snake is actually ill. To be on the safe side, be sure to keep things hygenic and wash up thouroughly, if you are handling your other snake, to prevent any parasite spread.

The snake needs some time to settle down- with no handling or even looking at it hard. It's behavior may change, once it's relaxed and used to it's new home. You can cover the cage and that tends to help them to chill out a bit. Do you have a hide spot for it in the cage? I can't see it in the pics.

aconto · 12-16-04, 08:21 PM

yeah I have a hide

vanderkm · 12-17-04, 09:56 AM

Lots of excellent advice from Lora - definitely give this snake a chance to settle in - make sure she has water, cover her tank for privacy and leave her alone for a week at least. I am sure with all the handling and a new environment she is pretty stressed.

The liquid feces is very common for colubrids - one thing that is very different from boas or pythons. Colubrids like ratsnakes have a rapid metabolism - they are active snakes that eat fairly frequently and poop a lot!! It is typically much less solid than the ball python poos and they go at least a couple times a week - depending on how often they eat. Still a good idea to get her fecal checked for parasites, but not a priority over giving her time to settle down.

Feeding can wait for at least a week if not longer - she is a big snake in good body shape - she can go months before eating again and just as well to have her hungry before offering her first meal. Just don't try and handle her in the meantime - let her settle down first, then get her feeding, then progress to handling.

She is a lovely snake but it is probable that she will never be the placid accepting snake that your ball python appears to be. Large ratsnakes can be a challenge for children to handle even when they are calm natured because they tend to be so active. Good luck with her - she is a very pretty one,

mary v.

aconto · 12-17-04, 02:58 PM

yeah thats what im gunna do. she finally went in her hide and has mellowed some i got her covered. got her in my office where i spend allot of time so i will leave her be for a couple weeks and hopefully shell get use to my smell in the mean time.