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04-28-04, 08:40 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Apr-2003
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Age: 37
Posts: 5,322
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is it ok now?
Alright so i changed a bunch of stuff and tried to follow as much of what i was told that i understood. Sorry for the dark image but it was night and my room is poorly lit. So i have a 4 inch layer of lizard litter, water dish leveled with the substrate for easy access, humid hide that you can see in the middle burried with a hole at the top and filled halfway with vermiculite so he/she can burrow. And just some grass decor and i got another thermometre because i dont htink mine was accurate at all. I placed the probe in the substrate and after about 30 minutes of being in their it reads only 79 so i think its wayyy to low. Im gonna have to get a better bulb tomorrow. Does it maybe take longer to get a good reading? Over the substrate i get 90 but under it is only 79 or 80 ish...
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Adam
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04-28-04, 08:44 PM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Apr-2003
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Age: 37
Posts: 5,322
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Also hes been in the humid hide for about 4 hours, all night id say. Is it causs he likes it or is it causs he cant find the way out. Ive never used a hide with a hole on the top. the width of the whole is about two nickles side by side. So about 2 inches in diamiter sp.
Should i make it bigger? btw, hes shedding for those who havnt seen my other threads.
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Adam
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04-28-04, 08:49 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Mar-2002
Location: BC
Posts: 9,740
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I think if the little guy is shedding, you should probaby just leave him alone in his hide box.
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04-29-04, 05:36 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Oct-2003
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 560
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Ditch the light and use an under the tank heating pad. You need to heat under the substrate so the temps are right for him when he burrows under the substrate. Be sure you have a temp gradient - different temp on cool side versus warm side.
Warm side = 90-95 (some like it hot!)
Cool side = 80s
Glad to see someone so open to advice and willing to do what they need for their snake.
__________________
1.0 Ball Python "Aragorn", 1.0 Bredl's Carpet Python "Strider"
1.0 Kenyan Sand Boa "Gimli", 1.0 Saharan Sand Boa "Frodo"
1.0 Mexican Black King "Indigo", 0.1 California King "Gentoo", 1.0 Snow Corn "Chile", 0.1 Okeetee Corn "Amazon"
1.0 Crested Gecko "Willow", 0.1 IJ Blue-Tongued Skink "Phoebe", 1.0 Indonesian Blue-Tongued Skink "Cole"
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04-29-04, 06:09 AM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Nov-2002
Location: Newmarket, ON
Age: 63
Posts: 1,442
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What is lizard litter made from?
I argee with the UTH. As the enclosure is huge for a baby KSB I would consider feeding is in a deli cup...I actually use those disposable Glade tubs from Wal-Mart
Brian
__________________
Associated Serpents Inc.
The Green Mile-Rodent Feeders
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes.
That way, when you criticize them you're a mile away and you have their shoes.
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04-29-04, 06:17 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Jul-2002
Posts: 4,768
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Quote:
What is lizard litter made from?
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Lizard litter is a brand name. They offer at least three different substates that I can think of. One is made of crushed walnut shell, not warning on the bag either for people alergic to nuts either. Another is sort of a peatmoss mix. The third is some kinda plant material I think. It's white and looks like some kind of grain or seed.
Cheers,
Trevor
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04-29-04, 06:35 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Apr-2003
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Age: 37
Posts: 5,322
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Quote:
Glad to see someone so open to advice and willing to do what they need for their snake.
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Actually as jeff would know, I never argue what people tell me especially when they have been keeping something that i need help on much longer then i have. So you guys must be right, and imo who ever argues over info they are given just dont know how to take advice
THATS what i forgot..i was standing in the petshop and i told the guy i know im forgetting something...it was the heat pad. Ill be getting that in the next day or two but does it have an automatic thing where i can set two temps or do i need to buy something else. It is a heatpad made by zoomed....
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Adam
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04-29-04, 06:41 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Jul-2003
Location: Kansas
Age: 41
Posts: 3,427
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Don't take the piece of paper off covering the sticky side, you will never get it off again.
You will need to get a lamp dimmer or a rheostat. And put the probe on the bottom of the cage, right over the UTH (with the UTH under the tank, not inside the tank  )
__________________
The Mischief:
Neptune, Zion, Enigma,
Mischief~ Hamster
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04-29-04, 06:54 AM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Jul-2002
Posts: 4,768
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Quote:
So you guys must be right
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Oh but you still need to be critical. Some people have been keeping stuff wrong for years. Just because it's still alive dosen't mean they are keeping it right. I know one of these "I've been keeping herps for years" people who finally killed his albino burm that was 4yrs old and 5' long because he wouldn't listen to me. He had been keeping longer then me so by default he knew more then me. Or so he thought.
My point is you can question advice with out arguing against it. It's important to find out why someone thinks there way will work for you. Why do people tell you to do what they do? How do they know it will work? Anyone giving advice should be ready to defend it if it is questioned in the right way.
Cheers,
Trevor
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04-29-04, 08:40 AM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Nov-2002
Location: Newmarket, ON
Age: 63
Posts: 1,442
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Adam....you may just want to use the cheapest Sunbeam (person) heating pad. That way you will not need to build a rheostat, and the low or medium temp. will be correct.
So, what type of substright is it you have.
BTW, Did you get the dirt yet for the Sav?
Brian
__________________
Associated Serpents Inc.
The Green Mile-Rodent Feeders
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes.
That way, when you criticize them you're a mile away and you have their shoes.
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04-29-04, 09:10 AM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Jul-2003
Location: Kansas
Age: 41
Posts: 3,427
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If you do go with a human heating pad make sure you don't get one that shuts off after 2 hours!
__________________
The Mischief:
Neptune, Zion, Enigma,
Mischief~ Hamster
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04-29-04, 09:27 AM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Oct-2003
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 560
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Either go with a human heating pad that doesn't have auto shutoff and has temp settings or get a reptile heating pad with either a rheostat or thermostat. The UTH's I've bought get way too hot - even with a rheostat, but are great with the thermostats. Could have just been the ones I got, but I wish I hadn't attached them to the tank - so I agree as above about not actually sticking them on the tank. Just in case you ever want or need to remove it.
__________________
1.0 Ball Python "Aragorn", 1.0 Bredl's Carpet Python "Strider"
1.0 Kenyan Sand Boa "Gimli", 1.0 Saharan Sand Boa "Frodo"
1.0 Mexican Black King "Indigo", 0.1 California King "Gentoo", 1.0 Snow Corn "Chile", 0.1 Okeetee Corn "Amazon"
1.0 Crested Gecko "Willow", 0.1 IJ Blue-Tongued Skink "Phoebe", 1.0 Indonesian Blue-Tongued Skink "Cole"
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04-29-04, 10:05 AM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Mar-2002
Location: BC
Posts: 9,740
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Don't waste your money on a pet store heating pad if its more than $20. Sunbeam makes them with 3 settings that you can usually get for $14-17 at WalMart or London Drugs.
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04-29-04, 03:02 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Apr-2003
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Age: 37
Posts: 5,322
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Alright thanks!
Btw whats a rheostat? And how would i attach it to the dimmer. Ive never used a UTH so i have no idea how they work...
__________________
Adam
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04-29-04, 03:03 PM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Apr-2003
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Age: 37
Posts: 5,322
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Just checked the temps, still under the substrate...and after getting the temps for about 20 hours or so..all night and day...it is at 88.
Do you still suggest a heating pad or is this alright? Id rather use an over head heat. So if its still not ok i think id rather just get a 100 W bulb instead...
__________________
Adam
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