gaboon info needed

crazykeeper · 03-23-04, 06:54 PM

I am picking up a W.A Gaboon in the next 3 weeks,just needed to find out a few things,that i have not found any other sites.
Behaviour?Are they more likely to avoid us or like other species that would rather,confront us.
When you have them out of their enclosure,what is the temperment like?
I already have the enclosure done and am just perfecting temps,and AV is on hand.
Just thought I would ask some questions, as i see there are some very insightful people on this site.
Thanks

Gregg M · 03-23-04, 07:39 PM

Hey Crazy,
Gaboons can be as calm as any snake or as crazy any snake..... They are hot, so it is a Must that proper handling tools be used...... For the most part they do a very good impression of a piece of drift wood but when agitated, they can and will through a head full of fangs at you...... If you have seen any of my pics, you would know how large they get and how big their fangs are......
They are not very easy to care for in captivity......... They are prone to dehydration......... They, for the most part, do not readily drink from a standing water dish..... A gaboon can dehydrate with a water basin 2 inches from its face....... They need lots of attention as far as reptiles go....... There is hardly a day that goes by when I am not caring for them in some way........ They are lightning fast and will strike with out showing any type of defensive posture....... They may twitch an eye ball, and a pupil may dialate befor a strike, but that is about it........
They can strike from any possision at any angle with pretty much 100% acuracy........ If a gaboon wants to bite you it will get you...... Now that I have told you that here is the way that works for me to keep them heathy and thriving.....

Temps- 70 to75 cool end and 75 to 85 degrees f hot end, max....... Keep them too hot and they WILL die........ You can offer a basking spot but I can tell you it will never be used........

Humidity- Anywhere from 50 to 80%...... Too much humidity can cause scale rot on the belly and can also cause URI if there is not good air flow....... Too little and you will wind up with snake beef jerky........
The best way to keep them hydrated is to 1)actually hook them over to the water dish.......
2) Mist them down every other day or so.....
3) Give then a 2 hour soak in a big tub or basin atleast once a week.....
4) Inject dead prey with 3 to 18 ml. of pedialyte or sping water, depending on the size of the snake, atleast every other feeding......

Feeding- Babies are fed 2 to 3 times a week and adults are fed 1 to 2 times a week....... Use apropriate sized food items.....

If you have any other questions, just ask....

crazykeeper · 03-23-04, 07:48 PM

Thanks Gregg you have been very informative,i look forward to more of your posts!!!

cantil · 03-24-04, 12:56 AM

Gregg, question, you feed gabby's that much? I have one and feed her every 10 to 14 days tops with a soaking once every seven. I've heard that feeding more frequently then that with any bitis will lead to impaction, constipation and poor digestion. Do you just feed really small meals very frequently.

Gregg M · 03-24-04, 09:08 AM

Cantil, I feed them small meals more offten....... They hold on to fecal matter longer than any other snake and do not suffer any ill effects from it....... Also if kept correctly they will hardly ever take longer than 2 or 3 weeks to deficate.......
There have been studies done on this and it was concluded that gaboons will purposly hold on to enough fecal matter to make up 20% of their body weight......
Like I have said a bunch of times, humidity and hydration is the trick to keeping these guys alive and healthy...... I would say you are not feeding your gaboon enough........
You have seen my pics....... None are overweight....... They are in perfect condition and my main pair have been with me for many years....... No problems what so ever......... Once in a while I will slip them a large prey Item so they can stretch their jaws but I usually stick to rats and mice around or alittle bigger then their head is.......
Where did you hear your info from and how old is the info???? Proper husbandry will just about eliminate these problems you hear about in older care sheets or papers......
Babies need to be fed more often due to the fact that they, for the most part inject venom into the mouse and it will break down much faster....... Plus they grow like weeds until they hit a certain size........ They are more active and metabolize faster than adults.....
Properly hydrated gaboons will not become impacted........ If they do there are other factors involved.......
All of my adults get 4 medium rats a week and sometimes I will trough them a large or jumbo.........

jtpRUGGER · 03-24-04, 01:33 PM

Gregg...that was some great info...would you say most of that applies to all bitis equally? (nasicornis particularly..)

Gregg M · 03-24-04, 01:48 PM

B. nasicornis like it alittle more on the humid side and also they like cooler average temps....... Rhinos are pretty prone to getting URIs if not kept properly...... The humidity needs to be high but they also need good air circulation...... High humidity and stagnent air can cause the URIs to develope....... Too much air flow and they dry out..... Gaboons and rhinos are not that different in their care but like I said they like it alittle more humid and alittle less hot.......
Rhinos have a tendancy to drop for no apparent reason...... I feel it has alot to do with air circulation.......
Scott and myself had a talk about this and this is what we both concluded........
Now Puff adders like to be on the dryer side and can stand higher temps....... Out of the three, puffs would be the easiest to maintain and keep healthy........ They are very tough....... And they are also much better at drinking from a water basin.....
I am not too up on the dwarf species of Bitis but from what I understand they for the most part like it hot and dry.....

crazykeeper · 03-24-04, 02:12 PM

So the big issue is air circulation,perfect temps and humidity.
Gregg are you using vision cages for all your gabbys?
So do you add more air vents?

jtpRUGGER · 03-24-04, 02:26 PM

What about feeding schedules for baby nasicornis? I've got mine on a 10 day schedule, but I'm wondering if I shouldn't be feeding him more...he was born late december this year, and is about 9 inches...he is currently being fed large pinkies...any suggestions?

Gregg M · 03-24-04, 03:00 PM

Well jtpRUGGER,
This is what I do with babies..... Here is an example of my feeding schedule......
Neonate gaboon viper
Sun, March 14th- 1 large pinkie
Weds, March 17th- 1 large pinkie
Sun, March 21st- 1 large pinkie
They are due to be fed again today........
Every 10 days seems too little for me...... I would say it is better to do every 4 or 5 days
Crazykeeper,
With gaboons I would not worry too much about the air cirulation....... The vents in a vision do the job plus Like I said I am in the gaboons cage just about every day so there is always an exchange of fresh air...... If you start cutting at a vision you will compromise the structure and it could weeken it....... I was thinking of using a compuer fan to circulate the air in a rhino incloser........ But with a gaboon you do not need to worry about that........ What kind of cage are you using????

crazykeeper · 03-24-04, 03:08 PM

I am using the Vision cage#332 it is 36wx28dx18h,is that sufficent,for one 28 inches?

Gregg M · 03-24-04, 03:15 PM

Sure, that is fine for one that size....... Once they hit the 3 ft mark their growth slows down a bit so it should be fine for a while......