melamine cage construction

rwg · 03-10-04, 10:00 AM

I started building my first custom melamine enclosure. For anyone interested, it's based on HetForHuman's design. I've modified it to be 36" X 22" X 22" because that's the biggest size I could get comfortably out of one sheet. Might have gotten 23, but I wanted an inch or two of waste so theyt could square it if necessary. At this size I get one enclosure plus an extrra panel for my next enclosure. I'm using 1/4" glass instead of 1/8" because I have kids who could bang into it, so I want the extra strength.

When it's done either my corn or my bull will be moving into it. I'll make a second identical cage for the other, and stack them. The plan is castors on the bottom cage and rubber legs on the others.

I have a few observations and/or questions. The two problems I'm having working with melamine are:

1) screw not centered causing a bulge under the laminate. My pilot hole is the core diameter of the screw, and 1/2" shorter than the screw. My screws are 1 3/4" #8 flooring/particle board screws. Is there a more forgiving screw or pilot hole configuration, or do I just have to pay more attention to keeping my pilot holes plumb and centered?

2) laminate is cracking, and particle board bulging when I counter-sing the screws. I guess I could get non-counter sinking screws, or I could get a counter-sing drill bit, and drill the counter-sink angles. Anyone have this problem before?

A third question: how many screws do I need to make it secure? I've been using 4 on the 22" sides and 5 on the 36" sides, so I guess I'll have about 50-60 screws in it when I'm done.

It seems pretty secure because the design provides a lot of bracing anyway.

Hey, I thought of another question. I'm using 5 3" vents, but the hole-saw cuts cost me a bit at Rona. Is there a cheaper alternative for vents? Any bigger than 3" and it's jigsaw work, but if it's fewer holes it might end up cheaper.

Got another: any recomendations for where to buy plate glass in Ottawa?

Oh, I found a cheap-ish dual thermometer/hygrometer with min/max memory. It's at home outfitters in Kanata for 30 bucks

rg

Auskan · 03-10-04, 10:08 AM

I made a rack using melamine this weekend. You are correct that the holes need to be pretty much centered to avoid the bulge. (I had one that I didn't drill "straight" and ended up with a bulge - after that I was more careful). I used a countersink drill bit and didn't have any additional problems as a result. I am using 1 3/4" deck screws.

Invictus · 03-10-04, 10:23 AM

I use a drill bit for the pilot hole that is about half the diameter of the screw, so that it gives added strength. Using the same size will cause it to sit loosely in the particle board. I use 1 1/2" screws, not 1 3/4". Also, never drill the screws in - this is probably half the problem. I use a manual ratchet-type screwdriver to get the screws in, and I find there are WAY less problems with splintering this way, not to mention, you should see my tricep right now! lol

latazyo · 03-10-04, 11:22 AM

besides kids hitting the glass, if you use 1/4" your snake will have less chance of getting between the panes and escaping...ask jjnnbns about his JCP that somehow squeezed between his 1/8 glass

Invictus · 03-10-04, 02:01 PM

I always use 1/4". 1/8" is ok if the glass is no more than about 12" x 6"... any more than that, it's just too flimsy.

C.m.pyrrhus · 03-10-04, 02:21 PM

I use 5/8" melamine and 1 1/2" screws on my caging. Invictus adds a good point about the screws also:

Quote:

I use 1 1/2" screws, not 1 3/4". Also, never drill the screws in - this is probably half the problem. I use a manual ratchet-type screwdriver to get the screws in, and I find there are WAY less problems with splintering this way

You'll find this works out the best. Also, plumbing and centering your pilot holes, which are needed, for your screws as best you can is gonna help out. You do not want to put to many screws in the structure as well, this weakens the wood as many folks think it adds strength (anyone in carpentry knows this). I would use one less screw for the lengths you described.

I would use the heavy duty casters, being this stuff gets heavy, and then the added weight of the other cages, material, accessories and herps. 1/4" glass is best, and I would never use anything other than that.

MistyDaze · 03-11-04, 03:10 AM

The drill size you are using sounds alright (he said the core diameter of the screw not the thread diameter) but you want the pilot hole to be about the same length as the screw. You should definitely use countersunk holes.

jjnnbns · 03-11-04, 03:22 AM

I have 1/8 glass right now as I just took in an old window from our place and had it cut to size, but I would never do it again. My 3' JCP which has a diameter about the size of a quarter slid between the panels. I was gonna get 1/4 but as the snakes are in rubbermaids right now, I will probably build hinged doors as I would prefer them.

rwg · 04-03-04, 12:41 PM

Just to let you know how things are going. For cage 2 (just finished putting the melamine together), things went much better.

I bought a countersink drill bit. I should have bought a better quality drill driver instead so I could set the depth of the countersink and get consistent depth. I sunk a few of them too far, but it looks okay.

I'm still drilling the screws in, but I have the torque slip set to a low value, and then I tighten by hand. I have no bulges or splits on this one at all.

Thanks for the advice. The third one should turn out perfectly.

rg