what's wrong with . . .

rnr · 02-15-04, 07:41 PM

aquariums for my snake (or other herps) enclosures.

I just got a BRB and I'm going to keep her in a 'critter cage' which is basically an aquarium w/ a safe screen lid. I've got a large water bowl, shreaded bark, and a ceramic heater. I'll keep her at around 85* under the heater and keep the bark moist. The water is in the cool end. I'm going to get a thermometer/humidity meter tomorrow and keep it under the heater. I'm going to keep plastic wrap over most of the screen to keep the humidity up where it belongs.

I know most of you guys use the rubbermaid plastic enclosures, but I keep my herps as pets and like to look at them. I take them out quite often and handle them. So I guess that's why I'm going with the clear glass thing.

But I don't want to do something that would hurt my animals. I've kept other herps in aquariums w/o any problems. See my intro in the newbie area.

Wizer69er · 02-15-04, 07:49 PM

You could get clear rubbermaids thats what i have my BRB in. I would think that with the proper humidity weather it be in a rubbermaid or what you have you would not be able to have that great of a view inside anyways because of the humidity. Someone else may be able to share better info then me.

Big_V · 02-15-04, 09:27 PM

Okay from what ive learned tanks arent the greatest. But i also like to keep my snakes in aquariums. I just use a glass top with drilled holes for circulation. But rubbermaids are definately less work. But i wouldnt use a ceramic heat emmiter. UTH (under tank heaters) are best because the ceramic emmiter will dry out the air really fast as that the heat is from above. Use an UTH and keep it really really moist in there. These guys need 100% humidity and cooler temperatures. Refere to the care sheet on the main page. BRB are wicked and thats why im gonna get one at the reptile show but you gotta get the setup proper just to make sure.
Cheer,
Ryan

Cruciform · 02-15-04, 09:35 PM

I've still been leery of using an UTH with a rubbermaid... seeing as most plastics give off chemicals when heated.

I've been considering heat tape or heat rope close to the surface of a rubbermaid so that it's radiating through but not directly against the surface. Any opionions on the safety issues of heat + rubbermaids?

crazyboy · 02-15-04, 09:47 PM

cruciform: well in my opinion so many people have been doing it for so long without problems so y not keep doing it. And the temp inside the rubbermaid isn't that much of a difference from the temp of the heat tape.

marisa · 02-15-04, 09:48 PM

I really don't see what the difference between a under tank heater and heat tape. In fact, I don't think there is one.

If lets say rubbermaids off gassed wtih under tank heater, they would do it exactly the same with heat tape as with either or you are trying to achieve the same temp hot spot.

Marisa

Tim_Cranwill · 02-15-04, 10:13 PM

Getting back to the first topic...

With a BRB and their humidity requirements, you would want to avoid a lot of ventilation. If you had them in a tank/critter keeper, you would have to do a lot of misting and keep several humid hides in the enclosure. It's do-able if you're up to the task but it's a lot more work than the low ventilation type set ups. Also, what if you are away for a while? You will have to count on someone else misting for you while you're gone. I would play it safe and choose an enclosure that requires less maintenance.

If it's looks you're after, you can actually make a pretty nice looking enclosure with a Rubbermaid/Sterlite bin. Check out some of the enclosure threads. Some people have done some sweet set ups...

P.S. Cruciform, I wouldn't worry about the plastic off gassing with a UTH. I mean, if you are getting the temps up to 90F with a UTH or a lamp or even heat rope, what's the difference? It's still 90F, right? 1000's of keepers use heat tape and plastic tubs, I think if it was a concern, we would have heard about it by now. Who knows?

I feel safe using that method with my animals.

Cruciform · 02-16-04, 03:03 PM

yeah, I'd been thinking of 90 degrees ambient temp, versus heat applied directly to the plastic to create the 90 degree heat. wasn't sure if it would make a difference. good points

I'm going to make the rack described here: http://www.ballpython.ca/The%20Rack.htm
with heat rope rather than tape since it's CSA approved

Linds · 02-16-04, 03:46 PM

The problem with tanks is that the screened top does nothing at all but put your heating and humidity efforts down the toilet. Both heat and humidity will rise right out the top and out of your tank. Also, the all glass sides are too bright of environment for a ssnake lives in swamps, you should have as many sides covered as possible. You can modify rubbermaids, or make your own enclosure, to suit both your needs and the snakes needs at the same time.

Quote:

Originally posted by Cruciform
I've still been leery of using an UTH with a rubbermaid... seeing as most plastics give off chemicals when heated.

If you are heating your plastics to a temperature where they will begin to offgas, then you are cooking your reptile. We keep snakes at temperatures below our own body temperature, and often the air outside in the summer exceeds temepratures we keep them at as well, yet if plastic is exposed to any of these temperatures, no reactions occur. It is when you reach the excessively warm temperatures that are capable of softening the plastic that it becomes a concern.

sapphire_moon · 02-16-04, 07:54 PM

I was going to say, I've had temp spikes in the summer reaching 110 (only once thank god) and When I opened the cage (my snake was cool to the touch on the cool side) there was no off gassing that I could smell and the plastic was still the same consistency.

Also when you put saran wrap or something over half the top that just restricts air flow. BRB's are not exactly the "display" snake that you want it to be. It's needs come first, then looks later. If you want something to display get a corn snake, or something like that. JMHO

And try to have it all set up first, so you can keep an eye on temps, as UTH's usually get well over 100 degress, so you will need a rheostat or a lamp dimmer (I use lamp dimmers and they work great).