Feeding

urd · 02-01-04, 04:16 PM

i am having problems getting a young bp (4 months) to feed, i was just wondering if anyone had any ideas that would help? thanx

elevation24 · 02-01-04, 04:28 PM

What problem are you having, exactly? What have you tried so far?

urd · 02-01-04, 04:31 PM

it does not seem interested in anything i offer including pinkies, fuzzies and rat pups

marisa · 02-01-04, 04:50 PM

How long have you owned the snake?
Whats the details of his enclosure? Size, type, heating, etc.
Marisa

crazyboy · 02-01-04, 06:22 PM

what type of food are you trying. frozen thawed, fresh killed, live?

Tortoise man · 02-01-04, 08:20 PM

When is the last time it ate ?

orion_dv8 · 02-01-04, 10:01 PM

my bp seemed pretty uninterested in the prey item but then i tried the rub some used mouse bedding on the dead mouse and it was like lightning struck i have never seen a snake move quite that fast it just ripped the f/t mouse right out of the tongs.

Bartman · 02-01-04, 11:59 PM

Thats exactly what happened to me, now try getting him over to rats in about a month...if you suceed come back to me with what you did! I cant get him on rats, although its not a must at the moment i cant do it...only mice for him

orion_dv8 · 02-02-04, 12:08 AM

i just havent been able to find F/K rats in ottawa yet but im still looking
ORION

sapphire_moon · 02-02-04, 01:04 AM

f/k is fresh kill. Buy the rat yourself then kill it.

You can try

f/t

f/t:
nose cut off

brained (make a small hole in the head and let a little brain come out)

rub the f/t mouse on freshly soiled bedding/litter of mice

the head of the f/t dipped in HOT water

the entire mouse dipped in hot water

the head of the mouse dipped in chicken broth

leave the f/t in the cage with the snake over night

leave the snake AND the f/t mouse in a smallish rubbermaid (with ventilation) overnight.

and lastly
try live mouse fuzzy,rat pink, or rat fuzzy. Nothing larger than that because it might hurt the snake.

Now, what are your temps, and how are you getting these numbres? what is your humidity like? the size of the enclosure, the substrate, what kind of area is it in (is it a high traffic area where everyone can see it, or is it off out of the way where it can be quiet and by itself?) how often do you handle it, how often do you offer the prey?

it could be just "that time of year" thing to. as long as the BP is not losing weight to fast, and as long as you don't think it's sick then it should be fine.

if I missed anything I'm sure everyone else will remind me!

tHeGiNo · 02-06-04, 12:33 AM

The key to getting a ball python to eat is to achieve correct husbandry. I am a firm believer in this, and I deem the ball pythons insecurity as the reason behind not eating. First, the basics. I am a fan of replicating native conditions, so I keep the ambient humidity low with humid hides. Where as the ambient humidity is relatively low, the hides boast humidities of up and over 80%. Temperatures on the basking spot are between 90ºF with a temperature of 75ºF on the cool side.

With all the aside, it is essential to shelter the ball pythons security. Key is the hides. Being thigotropic, hides that make contact with the back of the snake is mandatory. Best results will be acheived under these conditions. Have at least two of these available, one on either side of the tank. Of course, be sure to include an adequately sized water bowl.

Once proper husbandry has been achieved, and of course after warranting a period of acclimation, attempt feeding again. My suggestion is to leave it in the enclosure, in the dark, overnight. Trying multiple methods over and over does nothing but further the stress on the animal. If consistently unsuccessful, attempt feeding a live prey. A live hopper often employs their natural feeding instincts. As I've mentioned in the past, and will continue to mention, the health of the snake is what is most important, especially with young ball pythons. Once healthy, you may then worry about switching to f/t prey items. It is important not to allow the python to get to the point where it is too weak to eat.

jathoma · 02-06-04, 08:35 AM

Well, I've had Cain since July of last year and up until about a month and a half ago, he never missed a meal. Converted to rats about 4 months back and in mid-December he just quit on me (I live in Houston, so I have a hard time with wondering if the "cold" weather had anything to do with it).

After 4 weeks of not eating, he ate again....BUT only for 2 more feedings. This past Monday (feeding day) he was totally uninterested again...

So, I guess all I can say it....they'll eat when they're good and ready and I'll try every week to see if he is!

Question though - if it turns out that my boy Cain is really a female, is this the time of year "she" might stop eating (breeding season?)? Ultimately, I don't plan to breed him/her (at least not any time soon), so I haven't had Cain sexed....but I keep wondering, due to his/her size, if he's really a she

sapphire_moon · 02-06-04, 11:29 AM

My 2ft bp went off feed for 1 month. ate like 2 meals, (not in a row either, there was atleast a week apart without eating) then by that time, she has been off feed (and now a 2.5-3fter) for going on 3 months. She is round though, and she drinks water, and cruises the cage. So I just wait........and wait........and wait.

tHeGiNo · 02-06-04, 05:32 PM

Have you tried live yet, sapphire? One thing I forgot to mention, is that it is not as big of a deal if the snake is not losing weight.