Breeding Corns, A few questions

jjnnbns · 01-19-04, 06:24 PM

Hello all,

I am interested in breeding corns and I have been reading up on the forums and have a fairly generic idea of what it entails. Heres what I've got (if anyone could correct me or add to this, Thanks!):

1. Wait until the snakes are 18 months to two years old. Then put them into brumation? This would be from approximately the end of November until mid February? Keep them in rubbermaids which are inside styrofoam coolers? ***My question is if I feed them at all, how often do I change water, what temp, and do I poke airholes (I would assume so, but also in the styro)? ***

2. When taken out of brumation, I put the two in the same cage and let them do their business for a couple of days, then separate them. After about a week put them back together again for round two. ***This I am not 100% positive on, could someone verify?***

3. After they're spent, separate them once again and put a nest box in the females enclosure. Once she lays the eggs move them to the incubator. *** Approx how long until she lays the eggs, how many eggs should I expect, do I move them to the incubator right away or does she lay the eggs over a few days?***

4. Incubate the eggs. ***I've read quite a few posts on how to build an incubator, but does it take more than heat? What temp? Do I need a certain humidity?***

5. This is the part I haven't been able to find much on (ssnakes.com or google): What is the best method for caring for the hatchlings once they hatch? ***Do I keep them all in the same enclosure? Do they get higher temps than an adult? Do they eat pinkies right away?***

Thanks for any help that you may have. I am still doing more research on my own as well, as it will be over a year before I start any breeding of my own. I just want to know as much as possible in the future, so that I can make the decision and get things ready in advance.

marisa · 01-19-04, 06:35 PM

1. Age doesn't really have much to do with it. Its about size. MOST females will be a good breeding size by two I guess, but you are looking to have a female who is at least over 36 inches with good girth. Males can be smaller. You do NOT feed during brumation. You must clean the gut out before even starting brumation....which means two weeks at normal temps with no food. Then they go into brumation in normal type enclosures (yes with air holes) minus heating. This is basic. there is soo many more aspects and details about brumation. I suggest a ton more research before attempting it.

2. You warm them up out of brumation and normally after a shed, both male and female are ready to go. You do not *have* to leave them together you can just let them lock up, and repeat a few days later if you wish.

3. You won't know how many eggs to expect. It could be 6 it could be 30. You must plan ahead and buy enough supplies for all of them though.

4. Yes you most definitly do need a certain humidity. Like 80%-100% constantly. Eggs dry out fast and will die. Eggs are placed on vermeculite which needs to be check to make sure its most. Eggs will "dimple" when drying out sometimes. A damp paper towel placed over the eggs sometimes helps.

5. The babies should each have their own enclosure with hot spots the same as adults. They will eat their first meal about a week after hatching/first shed. Some will refuse, some will take FT right away, some need live. It all depends.

Like I said this is just basic info and I could have gone on for pages. Try purchasing The Cornsnake Manual by Kathy Love.

Marisa
P..S I also want to add brumation is not needed to mate corns in most cases.

Lisa · 01-19-04, 06:43 PM

Bob applegate's book on milk snakes pretty much applies to corn snakes too, the differences are minimal. since the book is out of print it's available for reading online.

http://www.applegatereptiles.com/art...okbreeding.htm

vanderkm · 01-19-04, 07:02 PM

Marisa has covered most of the basics and The Cornsnake Manual is pretty much required reading - it has tons of info. My only other comment on brumation would be that it is the temperature control and consistency that is important rather than the type of container you keep them in - styrfoam containers may help control temp fluxuations but are not always required.

Corns are easily bred - my only other suggestion is that you consider what you want to achieve by breeding and keep that goal in mind. They are a good species to learn incubation and husbandry methods with because of how tolerant they are. There is a tremendous variety of color and pattern combinations possible with corns, so lots of genetic possibilities to work with.

mary v.

jjnnbns · 01-19-04, 07:59 PM

I have an Anery A (female), and am looking at getting a breeding pair of reverse okeetee. Would it be smart to rotate females each year with the rev. okeetee and anery babies looking normal with either recessive traits? I also have the book Corn Snakes on order. There are not all too many snakes available here and at one of the petstores in town they told me that corns are in high demand and that they would be willing to buy the babies from me. I wouldn't breed them if I couldn't find them a home. I also want to learn as much, in all aspects, with these before I move into other species. (Plus my girlfriend can barely stand these guys, much less anything larger!)

sapphire_moon · 01-19-04, 08:50 PM

Didn't you just get your snake? I think you should wait a while and study up on it first. Maybe go to a few shows and talk to breeders face to face, talk to vets, get books, watch videos (I'm sure there are videos on corn breeding, somewhere). And see if you can handle a corn that is regurgeing, or refusing food.

You definitly have to have seperate enclosures for each corn........I don't think it's very common but the member simon housed 2 non feeders together, went back one day, and one had become a feeder!

http://www.ssnakess.com/forums/showt...sing+two+corns
Here is that thread.

He obviously breeds, he would probably be glad to answer any questions.....
You also have to ask yourself if you have the money to have your snake taken to the vet on emergency becasue she is egg bound? What if 10 our of your say 30 baby corns get sick? Do you have the money for that.......

I'm not trying to bring you down (I believe someone did warn you that snakes were addicting! lol ) But you have to think of the welfare of the snakes and your own personal financial situation.

You said you were going to grow them up, there is a certain weight you are supposed to get the female to (without power feeding hopefully). And by that time maybe you can have found a breeder that is willing to take and show you how to breed corns.......

And if you weren't warned before. I warn you now.......
Snakes are addicting!

jjnnbns · 01-19-04, 10:22 PM

This I am very aware of (the addiction), and I am not planning on breeding now... I am trying to find out as much as possible to determine whether or not it is something that will interest me. I am asking these questions so that if there is something that I believe is wrong, people on the forum can warn or correct me. Don't worry, I am doing this now so that I will have between a year or twos knowledge before I go ahead with anything.

sapphire_moon · 01-19-04, 10:40 PM

Awesome.......But by that time you will probably have tons of snakes branching off into more than corns! lol. Maybe even a few lizards.......herps in general are addicting.
They should have reptiles anonomous (sp??) lol

Hi I'm ashley and I'm addicted to herps.....lol

jjnnbns · 01-20-04, 01:50 AM

I used to have a green iguana and I loved it, but over the summer I was gone from 7am until midnight most days so I had to give him up to someone else who had more time. The only nice thing is that my car is now cleaner, as he loved car rides, but would crap on the dash (once inside the vents!... awful cleanup) but yeah, I completely understand addiction