New Build (Could use some help) - Adult Olive Cage

ttreptile1 · 08-30-17, 01:54 PM

So my Olive Python pair has finally come of age where they need to move into more permanent quarters. So off I went to Lowes (with the wife's approval) to build them their forever homes.

Its 8'x3'x3' 3/4" premium pine plywood. Sealed with exterior no voc semigloss on the outside and sealed with acrylic no voc varnish and silicone. The front is 1/4" polished edge glass on sliding tracks. There is a dual purpose hide/water bowl holder as well as a back shelf. Driftwood will be added shortly.

Anyway to my conundrum. Even after keeping and breeding snakes for over 30 years, I underestimated the heating on these beasts. As seen in the picture I tried a 150w cermaic bulb and that didn't cut it. I've been told by both pro products and Reptile Basics their radiant heat panels would not heat the cage appropriately. Meaning it may heat the spot but it will not raise the ambient cage temp. The room is 70 degrees almost year round.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to heat these cages both safely and relatively inexpensively? Both my Olive Pythons and I would appreciate the help on this.

dannybgoode · 08-30-17, 02:49 PM

Multiple heat bulbs in a cluster could work.

We need to to date pictures of them too

**EL Ziggy** · 08-30-17, 03:16 PM

(2) RHPs or multiple heat lamps should do the trick. I was hoping to keep my Olive in a 6x2x2 but I guess a larger cage might be necessary. I'm with Danny, can we see some current pics of your Olives? Both of ours are just yearlings and we'd like see what we can look forward to.

trailblazer295 · 08-30-17, 03:32 PM

You'd either need multiple RHPs so $$$ lol or like danny said multiple CHE regulated on the same stat.

ttreptile1 · 08-30-17, 03:40 PM

I am worried about using CHEs. I have had a few folks recommend not using them in light fixtures that are directly attached to the cage (even if they are ceramic fixtures). Big Apple Herp recommended a minimum of two 250w CHEs. That scares me a bit.

I was told RHPs would not work. They would heat the snake but not the air which I need with an low ambient room temp of 70 degrees.

I will get some new pics in the coming days. Feeding night tonight.

ttreptile1 · 08-31-17, 09:17 AM

I decided to go with a pair of 250w CHEs but instead of hard mounting them, I will put them in ceramic socket domes and suspend them inside the cage. Covering the dome front with steel mesh for protection and have them on a thermostat.

On a side note, why can't we get heater tubes in the US? Seems like a UK thing only?

jay's reptiles · 08-31-17, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ttreptile1

On a side note, why can't we get heater tubes in the US? Seems like a UK thing only?

i have noticed this as well!

dannybgoode · 08-31-17, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ttreptile1

I decided to go with a pair of 250w CHEs but instead of hard mounting them, I will put them in ceramic socket domes and suspend them inside the cage. Covering the dome front with steel mesh for protection and have them on a thermostat.

On a side note, why can't we get heater tubes in the US? Seems like a UK thing only?

We have all the best stuff over here

Scubadiver59 · 08-31-17, 12:38 PM

Ale...ale...ale...and, ale.

That about sums it up!

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannybgoode

We have all the best stuff over here

dave himself · 09-01-17, 01:49 AM

I've my retic in a 8x3x2 I heat it with two 250w CHEs on a 600w pulse stat. The CHEs are screwed directly to the top of the viv with ceramics and I've never had a problem keeping the temps correct, oh and both heaters have the heavy duty guards on them

ttreptile1 · 09-01-17, 06:23 AM

Awesome info Dave. Thanks!

I guess I was over thinking it a bit. I like to error on the side of safety. I was worried the heat generated down the base and into the ceramic outlet would heat into the wood and throw off the cage stacked directly above it. I may still put down a piece of steel plate and then attach the outlet to that.

dannybgoode · 09-01-17, 06:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ttreptile1

Awesome info Dave. Thanks!

I guess I was over thinking it a bit. I like to error on the side of safety. I was worried the heat generated down the base and into the ceramic outlet would heat into the wood and throw off the cage stacked directly above it. I may still put down a piece of steel plate and then attach the outlet to that.

Steel is not the best choice because if you get a loose wire there is a chance of turning it live - not good.

An extra wood plinth would work better or if you prefer a piece of week but then insulated with some wood.

ttreptile1 · 09-01-17, 07:30 AM

I saw this online. Looked like a good idea. I can't read what the site says though. I think it's German.

This was also interesting.

dave himself · 09-01-17, 10:59 AM

A sheet of polystyrene between the vivs may help with with heat transfer and that guard looks a bit on the flimsy side to me, here's the ones I use if it's any help

I have just uploaded these images:

jjhill001 · 09-01-17, 05:39 PM

Little late to the party but heating the room to around 80 degrees will mean the heating element in the cage doesn't have to work as hard.