Japanese Leopard Geckos

[TLH_Wär§cöötmän]

I know Probreeder is breeding them, but they have a long long waiting list but this is one of the only breeders I could find of the Japanese. Check out these links:

Japanese Splenden's Cave Gecko (Goniurosaurus k. splendens)
http://www.probreeder.com/pages/collection/gks.htm

Japanese Kuroiwae's Cave Gecko (Goniurosaurus k. kuroiwae)
http://www.probreeder.com/pages/collection/gkk.htm

Japanese Yamashinae's Cave Gecko (Goniurosaurus k. yamashinae) (I'm in love with these guys!!!)
http://www.probreeder.com/pages/collection/gky.htm

They also have:

Chinese Leopard Gecko (Goniurosaurus luii)
http://www.probreeder.com/pages/collection/gl.htm

Chinese Cave Gecko (Goniurosaurus lichtenfelderi hainanensis)
http://www.probreeder.com/pages/collection/glh.htm

Enjoy I'm waiting for my Chinese Cave geckos to arrive

[Double J]

Originally posted by Jason Wakelin
I'm not sure about Port Credit, but the geckos that Rob had at Global were not Japanese, but Chinese Cave Dwelling Geckos (luii).

Yep.. sorry.. I mean't that they geckos of the genus Goniurosaurus rather than Japanese ones specifically

[nimrodfiftyfour]

About importing them, it is not worth going through the trouble. It is NOT an easy thing to get, and to get it you first need a business liscence, which requires a tax id number. Not fun.

Now the post I really wanted to make, I was rushed on the last one. The following applies only to the gecko Goniurosaurus kurowiae splendens, as it is the only species of Goniurosaurus that I've kept so far.

They prefer relatively cool habitats. Mine seemed most comfortable between the range of 68 - 73 F. Occasionally the temerature went below 68 but never too far and they seemed to be just fine, they were only a bit less active. 74 - 79 (or so) was the same as far as the activity. But, temperatures above 82 F saw periods of complete inactivity. These geckos went straight into hiding and would not eat. To be honest my cage very, very rarely hit 80, so there is nothing "scientific" about my findings.

Continuing with habitat, they need moisture. I did from time to time see them drink, but never from a dish (which was provided), only from spraying either plants or the side of the tank. What seemed much more important was the moisture content of their substrate. While I never let it get either "bone dry" or soaking wet, they would vary their resting places depending on which side of the scale it was on. Perfection seemed to be a noticibly moist substrate, wet enough it would clump up if you squeezed it, but not leak any water. This was accomplished with twice a day moderate (60 - 90 second long) mistings.

For substrate I used straight sterilized potting soil. Natural plants were used in a moderate amount, they covered approx. 45 -50 % of the cage floor of a 35 gallon tank, and reached a height of no more than half way to the top of the tank. Multiple hiding areas were provided with a choice of humidities, but temperatures did not vary much. Hiding areas also varied in the depth of the cage. With the shallowest, warmest, and driest being under a relatively weak heat lamp. The coolest, deepest, and most moist was buried to a depth of approx 5 inches. As I mentioned I did have a heat lamp, but it was for lighting and not heat. If I had ever seen them climb the plants under this lamp to bask, I would have upgraded this, but I never did. However they did climb in other areas. Other than plants, cork bark and clay pots were used as ground cover, for a total of approx. 85% of the complete surface area. I rarely saw them use the 15% of open space to travel from hide to hide. Obvidously no UTH's or hot rocks were used. That's about it for habitat, there may be better ways to set them up, I'm not too sure though. When I had them there was very little captive info, so I researched their natural history and tried as best as I could to duplicate it.

As far as diet, habits, breeding, and incubation, I could probably double the size of this post (if not triple) but It's already too big. If however you are getting them let me know and I'll fill you in. I will say this though. At the time I was breeding them I was getting fertile eggs that went almost full term (3 years of frustration). The person that I sold them too got a couple of hatchlings that died within a month or so. And the breeders I spoke with from Germany and Japan were having about an 80% mortality rate on hatchlings. I loved these geckos so much and have been offered more (from Japan), and some day I may get them. But for now they are too delicate for a ham fisted chef like me.

Good Luck
Jason

[wyz]

If you guys are interested we breed Luii (chinese) and Araneus (Vietnamese), should have many more this year.

http://www.wyzza.ca/page_dispo_cave.htm

[Tarzet]

I have been working with a colony of Chinese cave geckos for the last 5 years. Producing a few hatchlings per year. I have an adult male fs right now. I also have a group of Veitnamese cave geckos. I dont get many eggs from either group. But when I do my hatch rate is 100% so far. Hatchlings, treated the same as the adults do really well. They do not grow as quickly as a Leo though. I wouldnt even concider them a Leopard Gecko as their requirements are very different, as Jason has already explained

Here is pictures of some of my Chinese and Vietnamese Cave Geckos....
http://www.ssnakess.com/photopost/da.../7VCG_pair.jpg
http://www.ssnakess.com/photopost/da.../7CGG_pair.jpg

[TLH_Wär§cöötmän]

I believe those are Chinese Leopard geckos (Luii??), not caves (lichtenfelderi hainanensis), but very very nice nonetheless I have to wait till april-ish to get my Chinese Caves I hate waiting....

[little_dragon_]

Thanks for all the info guys!