Some beginners questions for a Red-Tail Boa - Page 3

dannybgoode · 02-19-16, 10:09 AM

Ok we're getting somewhere. You need a thermostat right away. Funds may be tight but you must have one. No ifs, no buts.

Until you have one and we know your temps are right theres not much we can do.

They're not expensive and to honest ( and tis isn't a dig at you, out happens all the time) you shouldn't commit to a reptile without having the funds for the right equipment. People think they're cheap, secondhand fish tank and a heat bulb and of you go.

A good but not expensive set up is at least $100 if you get good secondhand kit, easily double that new and people don't realise. It's not the snake that costs it's all the stuff needed to keep ithealthy.

AwesomeGuy376 · 02-19-16, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannybgoode

Ok we're getting somewhere. You need a thermostat right away. Funds may be tight but you must have one. No ifs, no buts.

Until you have one and we know your temps are right theres not much we can do.

They're not expensive and to honest ( and tis isn't a dig at you, out happens all the time) you shouldn't commit to a reptile without having the funds for the right equipment. People think they're cheap, secondhand fish tank and a heat bulb and of you go.

A good but not expensive set up is at least $100 if you get good secondhand kit, easily double that new and people don't realise. It's not the snake that costs it's all the stuff needed to keep ithealthy.

I spent over 500 for all this (not including the snake), so it's not a cheap setup. And you have to remember, I just listened to the guy at the store who was showing me all this. He never mentioned a thermostat, all he said was to make sure the temps are about 80-90 and the humidity was around 60-70 and gave me the thermometer and humidity reader.. He never told me about some device that you can control the heat with besides just using the lamps.... I've never even seen a thermostat and I know 2 people who also own snakes..

AwesomeGuy376 · 02-19-16, 10:39 AM

And also there's a picture of his enclosure attached to the first post if you're curious

dannybgoode · 02-19-16, 10:43 AM

As I say I not bashing you. You followed the advice of someone who you thought would know.

Sorry to say but at $500 for your set up you're pet store is taking the proverbial. Unfortunately it happens say too often.

A thermostat automatically controls the power going to a light or other heating device to keep the temperature constant. Without it you could cook your snake or it may be way too cold.

With your setup I don't think you'll cook it but it certainly won't be happy and it may not eat accordingly. You must get a thermostat ( or star as they're commonly referred to as). Your friends aren't doing it right either.

AwesomeGuy376 · 02-19-16, 11:38 AM

Then can you link me to one that will work? I mean, the temps seem right where the care sheet is saying it should be and so is the humidity.. I've been monitoring all day.. But if it's absolutely necessary then I guess I'll get it

AwesomeGuy376 · 02-19-16, 11:42 AM

So will something like this work- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0018...ile+thermostat

I don't want to have to buy new lights... Those were expensive..

dannybgoode · 02-19-16, 11:49 AM

I'm afraid I don't know the US brands so I'm not the best person to advise on a good value stat your side of the pond.

I'm sure someone will be along soon who can point you in the right direction.

AwesomeGuy376 · 02-19-16, 11:52 AM

I'm not really concerned about value as much as effectiveness. I can afford three of these for my lights I just wanna know if they'll work. Considering it says 500 watts and my lights are only 50 and white one is 100.. Like you said, I need to be investing, I just got paid today (off my little YouTube job got $150 woo hoo :P). But yea, I just wanna get everything right, I just need to know if that's a thermostat that you're talking about

chairman · 02-19-16, 11:55 AM

I think that the product you linked is a rheostat. You'll want something more like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=i...refix=hydrofar

AwesomeGuy376 · 02-19-16, 12:00 PM

What's a rheostat? And those all say that they're for mats.. Will they work for the lights I have?

dannybgoode · 02-19-16, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AwesomeGuy376

What's a rheostat? And those all say that they're for mats.. Will they work for the lights I have?

A Rheostat is in essence just a variable resistor. It will limit the power to a heat source by a set amount but will not then alter that power to take account of the ambient room temperature. So, on a hot day it still may allow the temperature to get to high, on a cold day too low.

Think of it like a volume control on a stereo. You can set the volume but then you may need to manually alter that volume if you open a window and a load of outside noises get in.

A thermostat automatically controls the power to the heat source keeping it constant whilst factoring in the ambient temperature.

AwesomeGuy376 · 02-19-16, 12:22 PM

So why would they sell it? Just curious.. I just want the best for my snake, I really do. I would buy the ones he said, but it says they're for mats and I don't have one.. Just want to know if it will work with lights?

dannybgoode · 02-19-16, 12:29 PM

If it sells people will sell it if that makes sense. For some applications, where for example the ambient temperature is pretty constant, a rheostat is fine.

Someone in the States will hopefully confirm but my understanding is that Herpstat are a good make. You need a dimming thermostat to work properly with a heat bulb.

My recommendation would be to spend the few dollars more and get a ceramic heat emitter (the lightbulb type thing I mentioned previously) and a pulse stat. This will give you the best control and will be the most efficient also. Note though you can use a dimming stat with a ceramic heat emitter should you want to just get a stat for now and upgrade the actual heater but later.

**EL Ziggy** · 02-19-16, 12:37 PM

AG- I'd ditch the multiple heat lamps and go with a radiant heat panel or under tank heater as a primary heat source. The RHP can be used as an exclusive heat source. The UTH will create a hot spot but you may need to boost your ambient temps with a CHE or the red heat bulb (on a dimmer). In any event you'll want a thermostat to regulate your temps. I use ultratherm UTH's and hydrofarm thermostats on my enclosures and haven't had any issues with them.

http://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Cer...arm+thermostat

RBI Radiant Heat Panels

Ultratherm Heat Pads

bigsnakegirl785 · 02-19-16, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AwesomeGuy376

I've managed to restrict airflow using a wet towel and so far it's been holding up relatively well. I've been thinking about buying a humidifier cause I really don't want to have to buy a new cage.. The only problem is I heard that they break a lot.. But the humidity hasn't dropped past 60 since I've done my modifications, the misting is a bit annoying but I don't mind. I just really am kinda broke in the bank after the whole purchase soo yeah, can't really afford a new tank :P I've also done that bedding thing you showed in your video and it seems to help as well.

I understand the money thing, which is why I gave you advice for the tank. If you just can't get it above 60% in your tank, it will have to do. If it has a hard time shedding (which it shouldn't, but you do have 3 heat lamps), then offer a humid hide. Just a hide big enough for the snake + moss and keep the moss constantly wet. Just strain out the majority of water, and put it in soaking wet. You will have to replace it once a week, and you can even offer 24/7 outside of shed if you wish.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannybgoode

60% humidity is fine imo. Bsg and I have differing opinions about humidity for BCI's. 80% is up at the levels required for Brazilian Rainbow Boas and the like and there is a danger of you get it too high you're into the realms of potential RI's and the like.

Get the substrate too wet all the time and you've got problemsc and it's a tightrope that is not necessary to walk.

Out course this is the internet so you're going to get different opinions but my girl is doing just fine at 50-60% and I've not seen a care sheet yet for common boa that suggest 80% ( the highest I've seen it's 60-70%, the lowest 40-50%. I aim for low to mid 50's). Perfect sheds, eats and poos as she should and looks stunning. Recent photo below.

Bsg-do you have any links to care sheets or other resources that suggest 70-80% as I'd be interested to see what else they suggest that I could consider doing differently.

I am basing my 70-80% off the book by Vin Russo "The Complete Boa Constrictor," it is not available online to read as far as I know so you'd have to buy the book. In the book, he states that boas do best at a constant 80% humidity, but can be dropped to 60% during the winter breeding season.

As long as the high humidity isn't met with wet conditions, 80% should not cause an RI. It's not humidity itself that causes RI unless too low, although maybe 90-100% would cause an RI even if dry in a BCI. I wouldn't know, I don't keep my boa that high. I do keep him at 70-80% with zero illnesses of any sort, but I also don't keep him in wet conditions.

Quote:

Originally Posted by AwesomeGuy376

The cool end is roughly 83 during the day, but i really can't afford any new equipment right now

. I kinda have to make due with what I have, the previous owner used this, and I guess he was fine. Last night I actually saw him looking out of his cage, but I walked by not knowing and he went right back in (which I assumed scared him for the rest of the night). Here's my next problem, my dad worked at a pet shop when he was 16 and is giving me endless crap about how I'm "overdoing it"... He said that humidity doesn't matter and that the snake is "too warm" and that's why he won't come out.. He's also saying I should handle the snake every day (which I'm positive is a horrible idea).. If someone can post telling why all this is wrong so I can show him it'd be great.. But I tried explaining how humidity is essential for a good shed, and explained how he shouldn't be handled for a couple weeks till he's settled.. Anyways, back on topic, like I said, I actually saw him peak his head out a bit last night, so some progress

and I've left him alone for a couple days, and will continue to do so, so no worries there

Snakes rely on external heat to digest their food, if it isn't warm enough food could rot in their stomach. They also should be allowed to thermoregulate, which they have to do by moving between different temperature gradients. Boa constrictors are tropical snakes, why would 80-85F be too warm? I wouldn't exceed 90F, but there's no way that's too warm for them, especially if it's just a hot spot at 90F.

Your dad sounds exactly like my father was when I lived with him, it sucks having to deal with that.

If you want a cheap thermostat you can use in the meantime, get the Hydrofarm from Amazon, only about $30. I would advise getting a pulse-proportional thermostat ASAP, though, especially if you invest in a CHE set up. A CHE can blow up on an ON/OFF thermostat after awhile, and a pulse-proportional will also almost double your CHE's life.

(Here's the link, I currently have two of these and they seem reliable http://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Cer.../dp/B000NZZG3S)

I'd advise a Herpstat or pulse-proportional Vivarium Electronics when you can. They will be a couple hundred dollars each, but ON/OFF thermostats are not the best.

Always use a thermostat with a digital read out, the one you linked to won't be very good.