Anyone here have experience with dwarf boa regurgitation??

[Aaron_S]

Originally Posted by mikoh4792

Of course she isn't like that 100% of the time. If you read the post just above yours you will see that I don't mean to call them an arboreal species. However being semi-arboreal, or at least more arboreal then it's bigger counter parts, it doesn't hurt the snake to climb up and rest on a higher level to bask.

Most of the time my snake basks up top, she isn't always "perched" like that green tree python or even in the pic of my own. She just coils up and rests there, and after soaking up the heat she moves down. If she is thermoregulating herself this way, what is the problem?(not with the regurgitation, but more so with the setup I have)

So semi-arboreal now? That's what you've gone with? You've taken semi-arboreal and say "hmm...let's take an arboreal enclosure and use that then!" Brilliant.

Semi-arboreal means just use proper height, 6 - 12 inches and place branches in there with the thermoregulation going width and not height. It ISN'T a true arboreal species so height is moot.

The problem with your set up is that IT'S NOT WORKING. Why keep shoving a triangle into a cube hole? It boggles my mind. You've made a mistake and instead of admitting it and correcting it, you're trying to find any other reason for the issue.

I'd suggest giving the snake another way to bask and see which one it chooses. Currently, you've only given it one option and I think that's why you see it as okay...it has to use it or die.

[Mikoh4792]

Originally Posted by Aaron_S

Your snake couldn't digest it's meal. Proof it isn't working right. BCI's, all of them, are pretty hardy eaters. You shouldn't be dealing with issues.

Don't use only parts of your own discussion to try to prove your point.

Also, you did try to say they arboreal. You keep it like you would an arboreal species so I don't see how I'm mistaking anything you say. You're the one who said and did it.

The previous owner did tell me his caulker cay boas were regurgitating so the problem doesn't stem from me. It starts from somewhere else.

Originally Posted by Aaron_S

So semi-arboreal now? That's what you've gone with? You've taken semi-arboreal and say "hmm...let's take an arboreal enclosure and use that then!" Brilliant.

Semi-arboreal means just use proper height, 6 - 12 inches and place branches in there with the thermoregulation going width and not height. It ISN'T a true arboreal species so height is moot.

The problem with your set up is that IT'S NOT WORKING. Why keep shoving a triangle into a cube hole? It boggles my mind. You've made a mistake and instead of admitting it and correcting it, you're trying to find any other reason for the issue.

I'd suggest giving the snake another way to bask and see which one it chooses. Currently, you've only given it one option and I think that's why you see it as okay...it has to use it or die.

Same with any set up. The snake has to use a hotspot or die.

Could you just answer this simple question?

- If my boa is thermoregulating herself, and the temperatures are proper, what is wrong with my enclosure? You say that she is not getting warm enough for food when clearly she is. She goes to bask, where it is 90+ degrees Fahrenheit.

I think you are the one using parts of their own discussion, not me. I have clearly stated time and time again that she gets warm and cool enough.

In your mind I have made a mistake. If you can tell me, after properly reading my posts and seeing that my snake gets the proper temperatures, what the problem is with my setup, I will admit to being incorrect. But please don't make it seem like I am forcing an argument beyond rationale. You just haven't proven me wrong yet.

[Aaron_S]

Originally Posted by mikoh4792

The previous owner did tell me his caulker cay boas were regurgitating so the problem doesn't stem from me. It starts from somewhere else.



Same with any set up. The snake has to use a hotspot or die.

Could you just answer this simple question?

- If my boa is thermoregulating herself, and the temperatures proper, what is wrong with my enclosure? You say that she is not getting warm enough for food when clearly she is. She goes to bask, where it is 90+ degrees Fahrenheit.

I think you are the one using parts of their own discussion, not me. I have clearly stated time and time again that she gets warm and cool enough.

In your mind I have made a mistake. If you can tell me, after properly reading my posts and seeing that my snake gets the proper temperatures, what the problem is with my setup, I will admit to being incorrect. But please don't make it seem like I am forcing an argument beyond rational. You just haven't proven me wrong yet.

Maybe he's not keeping them right as well. Ever think of that? Snakes don't just regurge due to no reason.

Secondly, I thought it might all be parasites and disease. Parasites don't come from CBB animals. You don't know much.

How do you KNOW it's getting the right warmth when it's CLEARLY not due to it's lack of digestion. Have you checked the temps with a different instrument to see if yours is off yet? No? Thought so.

Your ANIMAL is telling you that it's set-up is wrong. Just because YOU see it as right doesn't make it so. You're not the one living in it or trying to eat in it, are you?

You've been told twice now an answer to the question you've asked. We've said why we believe it to be so. Either try it out or shut up. Go to the vet, spend all your money to find out it's nothing. Good luck.

[Mikoh4792]

Originally Posted by Aaron_S

Maybe he's not keeping them right as well. Ever think of that? Snakes don't just regurge due to no reason.

Secondly, I thought it might all be parasites and disease. Parasites don't come from CBB animals. You don't know much.

How do you KNOW it's getting the right warmth when it's CLEARLY not due to it's lack of digestion. Have you checked the temps with a different instrument to see if yours is off yet? No? Thought so.

Your ANIMAL is telling you that it's set-up is wrong. Just because YOU see it as right doesn't make it so. You're not the one living in it or trying to eat in it, are you?

You've been told twice now an answer to the question you've asked. We've said why we believe it to be so. Either try it out or shut up. Go to the vet, spend all your money to find out it's nothing. Good luck.

You are making assumptions that are too large now. Parasites and diseases can be transferred from wild caught animals to captive bred animals, when breeders or keepers keep them in close proximity.

Also, I do keep many instruments for checking temperatures. I have two thermometer/hydrometers in the bottom of the cage, two digital stick on thermometers/hydrometers stuck onto the middle walls of the cage, and I also have two different brands of infrared guns to check temperatures at various spots of the enclosure.

I feel you are bitter towards me because I am not taking your advice. However I did mention earlier on that I would give it two weeks to confirm for myself whether or not she would keep using the arboreal type setup to go up and bask, and crawl down to cool before taking your advice. This shows I am open to help and willing to follow advice.

One thing I should have mentioned before. The previous owner was also powerfeeding it before it being sold to me. He told me that a few weeks before I bought the animal, he would try to feed it every 3 days to bulk up..

[Aaron_S]

Originally Posted by mikoh4792

You are making assumptions that are too large now. Parasites and diseases can be transferred from wild caught animals to captive bred animals, when breeders or keepers keep them in close proximity.

Also, I do keep many instruments for checking temperatures. I have two thermometer/hydrometers in the bottom of the cage, two digital stick on thermometers/hydrometers stuck onto the middle walls of the cage, and I also have two different brands of infrared guns to check temperatures at various spots of the enclosure.

I feel you are bitter towards me because I am not taking your advice. However I did mention earlier on that I would give it two weeks to confirm for myself whether or not she would keep using the arboreal type setup to go up and bask, and crawl down to cool before taking your advice. This shows I am open to help and willing to follow advice.

One thing I should have mentioned before. The previous owner was also powerfeeding it before being sold to me. He told me a few weeks before I bought the animal, he would try to feed it every 3 days to bulk up..

The bold...the second red flag on why I wouldn't buy or listen to this person. Who doesn't quarantine? Secondly, it would have to be some disgusting set up for cross contamination. Internal parasites don't just up and walk away...

The italics...why do you keep two at the bottom and middle of the cage and none at the top where she apparently spends most of her time? She doesn't bask in the middle.

The underline...you've given this animal ONLY one choice to bask. She will continue to do so because without she'll die. It doesn't make it optimal. That's like putting it in a glass bowl full of water and saying it "loves to swim all the time".

I'm not bitter about anything. I'm frustrated because people like you come here because you believe we know a better solution than you can come up with on your own so you ask a question. You get answers and because they don't match up with YOUR ideas you put them off and criticize them. It's fine to ask for further detail but not a person has come to say myself or Lady_bug is wrong so it should say something.


So now because you don't want to admit to things being your mistake since you're dead set on the arboreal set up because you think it's best you're now saying that due to it eating on a better schedule it would regurge?

[Mikoh4792]

Originally Posted by Aaron_S

The bold...the second red flag on why I wouldn't buy or listen to this person. Who doesn't quarantine? Secondly, it would have to be some disgusting set up for cross contamination. Internal parasites don't just up and walk away...

The italics...why do you keep two at the bottom and middle of the cage and none at the top where she apparently spends most of her time? She doesn't bask in the middle.

The underline...you've given this animal ONLY one choice to bask. She will continue to do so because without she'll die. It doesn't make it optimal. That's like putting it in a glass bowl full of water and saying it "loves to swim all the time".

I'm not bitter about anything. I'm frustrated because people like you come here because you believe we know a better solution than you can come up with on your own so you ask a question. You get answers and because they don't match up with YOUR ideas you put them off and criticize them. It's fine to ask for further detail but not a person has come to say myself or Lady_bug is wrong so it should say something.


So now because you don't want to admit to things being your mistake since you're dead set on the arboreal set up because you think it's best you're now saying that due to it eating on a better schedule it would regurge?

I wasn't criticizing your ideas. I was just stating that you haven't proven to me why my setup was wrong even when my snake was thermoregulating herself with the proper temperatures available.

The reason why I don't have a thermometer at the top is because I have taped a helix proportional thermostat to her basking area, and I also check a few times a day with my infrared heat gun to make sure her hotspot is in check. Basically, the temperatures for the whole cage are accounted for.

How many options can I give to a snake so small? Small snakes kept in tubs or even smaller enclosures usually only have one choice of heat, be it a heat tape, pad, or a light. Also, what is not optimal about it? She goes up, she basks at 90F. <--- Is there something wrong here?

I am also not deadset on an arboreal setup. I don't like repeating myself but I will. I have said before that I would give it some time to confirm that she doesn't continue to thermoregulate herself based on the setup I have given her, before taking the advice of the posters here including you and giving her a terrestrial type of setup.


EDIT: I mentioned the powerfeeding so that it may give some more insight on the problem. I don't mean to redirect the fault at the previous owner. Heck I don't even know the problem is!

[Aaron_S]

Originally Posted by mikoh4792

I wasn't criticizing your ideas. I was just stating that you haven't proven to me why my setup was wrong even when my snake was thermoregulating herself with the proper temperatures available.

The reason why I don't have a thermometer at the top is because I have taped a helix proportional thermostat to her basking area, and I also check a few times a day with my infrared heat gun to make sure her hotspot is in check. Basically, the temperatures for the whole cage are accounted for.

How many options can I give to a snake so small? Small snakes kept in tubs or even smaller enclosures usually only have one choice of heat, be it a heat tape, pad, or a light. Also, what is not optimal about it? She goes up, she basks at 90F. <--- Is there something wrong here?

I am also not deadset on an arboreal setup. I don't like repeating myself but I will. I have said before that I would give it some time to confirm that she doesn't continue to thermoregulate herself based on the setup I have given her, before taking the advice of the posters here including you and giving her a terrestrial type of setup.

I don't like repeating myself either but I seem to have to. The fact, that your snake did not digest it's meal would tell me something is wrong with your set up.

All of my snakes are in tubs. ALL of them and there's plenty. None regurge. I don't have this issue. I never do because I maintain a proper enclosure for them all.

[marvelfreak]

Originally Posted by Aaron_S

It's fine to ask for further detail but not a person has come to say myself or Lady_bug is wrong so it should say something.


So now because you don't want to admit to things being your mistake since you're dead set on the arboreal set up because you think it's best you're now saying that due to it eating on a better schedule it would regurge?

I say your wrong on the arboreal part and here's my proof.

Boa c. imperator Cay Caulker | Stöckl - Die Nr.1 Boa constrictor Seite im Internet

Caulkers Cay Boas are very small boas and adults max out at around 5 feet in length. I have had Females produce litters of 10 or more babies at as little as 45 inches and 3 years of age. They are lean boas and adults may be a thicker than a broom handle. They are more arboreal than most other Boa constrictors because they must take to the trees to avoid predators such as crabs at low tide. Their background color is a very light pastel gray. Their dorsal saddles are a darker steel gray and count 22 – 24 snout to vent. Caulkers Cay Boas are naturally anerythristic or lacking red. Their tail is also dark gray with flecks of brown in it. Some Caulkers Cays Boas are much Darker than others and could have black tails with black saddles. The ventrals on this boa are white and speckled with gray and black. The sides that touch the ventral scales are more speckled with gray & white. This overall gray color is most likely camouflage to blend in with its Mangrove and sandy surroundings.

[Mikoh4792]

edit: deleted because I thought marvel's response was written by Aaron_S. I should have read more carefully.

I was going to say, that furthers my point. If they are up in the trees avoiding predators, that is most likely where they will be getting their heat from. It is contradictory to spend time avoiding predators in the trees only to go down to get heat from the forest floor, leaving them vulnerable. It is more consistent and energy conserving to avoid predators up in the trees and canopy while basking in the heat at the same time.

[Aaron_S]

Originally Posted by marvelfreak

I say your wrong on the arboreal part and here's my proof.

Boa c. imperator Cay Caulker | Stöckl - Die Nr.1 Boa constrictor Seite im Internet

Caulkers Cay Boas are very small boas and adults max out at around 5 feet in length. I have had Females produce litters of 10 or more babies at as little as 45 inches and 3 years of age. They are lean boas and adults may be a thicker than a broom handle. They are more arboreal than most other Boa constrictors because they must take to the trees to avoid predators such as crabs at low tide. Their background color is a very light pastel gray. Their dorsal saddles are a darker steel gray and count 22 – 24 snout to vent. Caulkers Cay Boas are naturally anerythristic or lacking red. Their tail is also dark gray with flecks of brown in it. Some Caulkers Cays Boas are much Darker than others and could have black tails with black saddles. The ventrals on this boa are white and speckled with gray and black. The sides that touch the ventral scales are more speckled with gray & white. This overall gray color is most likely camouflage to blend in with its Mangrove and sandy surroundings.

Chuck, I never said they don't ever climb. I said they just aren't true arboreals. They are semi arboreal. I read that last night when I searched the species myself. It states to me, they use it at a particular time of day to escape from predators. I'm sure they spend a lot of time on the ground as well. As I've stated previously, this means to use a proper enclosure and place some height in it and they'll utilize it. They don't need it like an ETB or GTP would.

Either way, some plants suctioned to the side of an enclosure isn't a hide. The reason for that is snakes like to feel secure, that's why they coil so they can easily defend the rest of their body with their one defense, the mouth.

Quite possibly, your snake isn't digesting as I stated before it's not getting warm enough because it can't bask without feeling insecure and climbing the branches. I'd suggest that these snakes in the wild don't climb the trees to bask but use the rocks instead.

Like I said, a proper simple set up is way better. It isn't too big for a 10 gallon tank.

Lastly, you're right about one heat source in a tub or another similar enclosure. The difference being is that my heat source and the rest of the enclosure is set up for the species I keep and not for just a part of their life that I decide to focus on.