Why constantly soak in cold water when there's heat.

[Will0W783]

I don't agree with using undertank heaters for snakes. Snakes are baskers in the wild...they are evolved to handle overhead sunlight and the resulting heat from that. Does that mean the ground- rocks, dirt, etc- doesn't get hot in their natural climate? No, but excessive belly heat in captivity has been known to lead to constipation, burns, and digestive maladies (What's Wrong with My Snake? by Dr. John Rossi, DVM). It sounds to me like you don't have a good ambient temperature or an adequate gradient, if your described temperatures are indeed correct. I would turn off your heating pad (101 surface temp is a bit hot and may actually be uncomfortable for the snake to crawl across) and rely on your heating lamps only. When we speak of heat gradient, we are speaking of air temperatures, not the surface temperature of a light. Ambient heat would be the steady baseline temperature of the cage not under the light. You want a basking area (6inches-12inches) underneath the light of about 88-90. I would say that the 75 degree cool end is a bit too cold, but the 140 degree basking area is way too hot. Also are you using a digital temp gun to measure your temperatures?

My suggestions to you are to:
1. turn off the heating pad to eliminate belly heat
2. use a substrate that holds in warmth (aspen or cypress mulch are good for this)
3. Recheck your temperatures after 24 hours
4. If you still have such an extreme gradient- you might want to use a smaller wattage bulb and then use one at the hot end and one slightly more to the middle of the cage, to set up a more steady gradient. In my opinion, your hot end is way too hot and your cool end is too cold.
5. Check for mites in the water- remove the snake and pour the water out in increments into a white sink with the drain plugged.

6. Make sure your snake has other hiding places. An insecure snake will often just hang out in the water dish if no hides are provided, as the dish provides a tight spot to wedge into and feel slightly more secure.

Also, keep in mind that Burmese pythons like water. In the wild, they hang out near lakes and swamps. I tend to give my Burm a bathtub soak at least once a week- and he loves it. I let him in the bathroom and start filling up the tub and he will just slither right on into it.

[RandyRhoads]

Originally Posted by Will0W783

I don't agree with using undertank heaters for snakes. Snakes are baskers in the wild...they are evolved to handle overhead sunlight and the resulting heat from that. Does that mean the ground- rocks, dirt, etc- doesn't get hot in their natural climate? No, but excessive belly heat in captivity has been known to lead to constipation, burns, and digestive maladies (What's Wrong with My Snake? by Dr. John Rossi, DVM). It sounds to me like you don't have a good ambient temperature or an adequate gradient, if your described temperatures are indeed correct. I would turn off your heating pad (101 surface temp is a bit hot and may actually be uncomfortable for the snake to crawl across) and rely on your heating lamps only. When we speak of heat gradient, we are speaking of air temperatures, not the surface temperature of a light. Ambient heat would be the steady baseline temperature of the cage not under the light. You want a basking area (6inches-12inches) underneath the light of about 88-90. I would say that the 75 degree cool end is a bit too cold, but the 140 degree basking area is way too hot. Also are you using a digital temp gun to measure your temperatures?

My suggestions to you are to:
1. turn off the heating pad to eliminate belly heat
2. use a substrate that holds in warmth (aspen or cypress mulch are good for this)
3. Recheck your temperatures after 24 hours
4. If you still have such an extreme gradient- you might want to use a smaller wattage bulb and then use one at the hot end and one slightly more to the middle of the cage, to set up a more steady gradient. In my opinion, your hot end is way too hot and your cool end is too cold.
5. Check for mites in the water- remove the snake and pour the water out in increments into a white sink with the drain plugged.

6. Make sure your snake has other hiding places. An insecure snake will often just hang out in the water dish if no hides are provided, as the dish provides a tight spot to wedge into and feel slightly more secure.

Also, keep in mind that Burmese pythons like water. In the wild, they hang out near lakes and swamps. I tend to give my Burm a bathtub soak at least once a week- and he loves it. I let him in the bathroom and start filling up the tub and he will just slither right on into it.

Thank you for taking the time to explain all that. I do use a digital temp gun. I shelled out a decent ammount of money on it because I was under the impression surface temps were the important ones for digestion. I was thinking of using flex watt heat tape to heat 1/3 to 1/2 of her enclosure.

1. It was only on at night when I turned the lamp off.
2. I use cypress mulch.
3. I've tried combos of heat pad/lamp/portable heater outside the viv and it hasn't brought up the inside ambient heat but by maybe a few degress(not worth 1.5 KW/an hour, any more energy efficient ways to bring up ambient?)
4. I will try to post pictures of my enclosure. It's 8' and has only one spot for a recessed basking light, so I can't put one at the other end.
5. She does not have mites. I have dealt with them more than I cared too and i've checked her and the water several times, and I use mite away regularly.
6. I made her a hide and placed it at various places (cold end hot end in between) and she's still in the water in the cold.

Is it unhealthy for her to be in 68-70F water? Because I could put the heating pad under or half under so she's not frozen in there.