|  |
Notices |
Welcome to the sSnakeSs community. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
|
11-03-17, 03:52 AM
|
#31
|
Member
Join Date: Dec-2015
Posts: 2,203
Country:
|
Re: California Kingsnake
My apologies DJC. Two things to bear in mind 1/ I'm a Yorkshireman so say things as they are and 2/ I'm prone to bouts of grumpiness. The 2 sometimes do not mix very well.
Yes, a pure infrared heat source such as a che is fine iro of non-visibility but they only emit far IR, IR-C, which is not the best for actually heating muscle and flesh.
In terms of light at night I quote the following from John Courtney-Smith who owns and does the research into Arcadia reptile projects. He has released a new, true ir heater that I know TRD has been playing with and we've been discussing a lot in the UK.
---
Light output; it is VITAL to the D3/Ca/Mg cycles and circadian rythems that all animals have a period of total darkness. By total darkness we refer to a level of light equal to or less than the reflected by the moon. Generally this is around 4lux. The Deep Heat Projector produces true Infra-Red at below 4 lux. As such it is very safe to use 24/7 and should be. Day/night stats help here of course.
---
I'm not saying that I won't come across as blunt in the future because I'm sure I will but no offence intended to anyone  .
__________________
0.1 B imperator, 1.0 M spilota harrisoni, 1.0 C hortulanus, 2.1 P reticulatus (Madu locality), 1.1 S amethystine, 1.1 L olivaceous, 1.0 C angulifer, 1.0 Z persicus, 0.1 P regius, 0.1 N natrix, 0.1 E climacophora, 1.0 P obsoletus, 0.1 L geluta nigrtia, 1.0 P catenifer sayi, 1.0 T lepidus
|
|
|
11-03-17, 04:19 AM
|
#32
|
Member
Join Date: Oct-2017
Posts: 433
Country:
|
Re: California Kingsnake
Hello Moneek,
First off, Apologies accepted, to dannybgoode, though I wasn't very clear in what I was saying either, I should have said I was referring to infrared ceramic heat emitters, and not infrared the bulb. But I agree, a ceramic heat emitter in my experience both costs less and lasts longer, and can be used 24/7 to provide appropriate heat in your reptile room (if your room doesn't drop below 70°F it may not be necessary to use the bulb 24/7, instead using it only in the day should suffice). Although I am not sure where you keep your son's snake? There should be a noticeable difference in day and night time so the snake can tell the difference, keeping him near a window will help this. Don't keep the snake directly in front of the window however, because in the summer the intense sunlight can build up heat and kill your snake. If you need to you can even use a low wattage fluorescent (not a heating light) to light up the cage a little bit (only do this if you think it is necessary, just make sure to turn it off at night. These lights would be used at the same time as the ceramic bulb for daytime.). No UVB lighting is required to keep most snakes, as their diet of whole prey will usually give them everything they need. In terms of california kingsnakes, they get their vitamin d3 in the whole prey they eat, such as rodents in captivity. Just make sure you provide a variety of hides and a water bowl, and everyone's advice should cover everything. Let me know if you have any questions  .
Sorry for the confusion, hope this helps!
-DJC Reptiles
|
|
|
11-03-17, 05:09 AM
|
#33
|
Member
Join Date: Dec-2015
Posts: 2,203
Country:
|
Re: California Kingsnake
Ooo don't get me and TRD started on the whole uvb for snakes  .
Have a search on the forum for some lengthy mass debates on the subject. In a very short summary there is a ton of research to show that uvb is highly beneficial for snakes and I provide it for all mine.
No it's not essential for them to live in the way it is for a lot of lizards but it is desirable imo to give the option.
__________________
0.1 B imperator, 1.0 M spilota harrisoni, 1.0 C hortulanus, 2.1 P reticulatus (Madu locality), 1.1 S amethystine, 1.1 L olivaceous, 1.0 C angulifer, 1.0 Z persicus, 0.1 P regius, 0.1 N natrix, 0.1 E climacophora, 1.0 P obsoletus, 0.1 L geluta nigrtia, 1.0 P catenifer sayi, 1.0 T lepidus
|
|
|
11-03-17, 05:40 AM
|
#34
|
Member
Join Date: Oct-2017
Posts: 433
Country:
|
Re: California Kingsnake
Quote:
Originally Posted by dannybgoode
Ooo don't get me and TRD started on the whole uvb for snakes  .
Have a search on the forum for some lengthy mass debates on the subject. In a very short summary there is a ton of research to show that uvb is highly beneficial for snakes and I provide it for all mine.
No it's not essential for them to live in the way it is for a lot of lizards but it is desirable imo to give the option.
|
Yes, I understand a lot of people use UVB for snakes, it's not necessary though. Certainly it can only help them. There are proven studies showing how UVB can increase color, improve mood, and it is a natural way snakes get d3 should they decide to bask. I have absolutely no problem with people who use UVB, I think it is a great replication of what the snakes would expierence. All I am saying is there have been numerous documented cases of snakes not being given UVB lighting, and living perfectly happy lives. For certain species of snakes I would actually suggest UVB lighting to highten colors, such as Epicrates cenchria, Morelia amethistina, and Epicrates maurus who are all especially well known for their rainbow coloration under this kind of lighting. UVB lighting can certainly get expensive, especially because of how often they need to be replaced. The majority of snakes should be able to get their d3 from the diet they eat however, and there are many snakes that often don't bask at all and never come out to expierence much UVB even in the wild. In terms of lizards, UVB is much more important, especially in herbivores herps such as Iguanas. But you're right UVB is probably one of the most debated aspects of keeping reptiles, and we could probably go on about it indefinitely, so I'll end it off on this: UVB is not necessary, but it will not hurt the snake (could actually help it), should you chose to provide it. Moneek: If you do want to provide it, I recommend using nomoypet's reptile uvb bulb for 10.0. It is cheaper than anything else I have come across and works perfectly for my ackie monitor. dannybgoode: if you can check out my care sheet on ackie monitors, I would truly appreciate it, I would love for some constructive criticism so I can improve upon it.
Thank you,
-DJC Reptiles
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:06 AM.
Powered by vBulletin® ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Copyright © 2002-2023, Hobby Solutions.
|
 |