Hasn't eaten since the beginning of March.

**Pareeeee** · 06-20-13, 07:53 AM

So I know it's normal for BPs to go of food from time to time but Kahless is still young (almost a year old now) but still in the growing stage. I wanted him to be EATING during his growing stage!!!

He just sits there for a while while I dance it around on the tongs, and he acts as if the rat isn't even there. If I touch him with it to try waking him from his "trance" he then tries to escape from it like it's scary or gross or something :P

Unfortunately he has been off food for just over four months now, he stopped eating after I fed him a larger-than-usual rat back in March. (I don't believe it was too big for him though, probably just a coincidence)

Things in his enclosure haven't really changed from what I can tell, except that back in March his heater failed and was fluctuating all over the place, so I replaced it and his temps have been in the mid 90's ever since. His humidity is always between 60-70%. I haven't changed hides or tubs or substrate or anything else.

Should I be worried or is he just being a stubborn BP? He doesn't look bad, of course he's lean but he doesn't look unhealthy.
He just shed last week.

**Aaron_S** · 06-20-13, 08:33 AM

Don't be worried. He shall be fine.

If you really want to see if he'll eat, use a live rat.

Terranaut · 06-20-13, 09:25 AM

Mine is 7months and counting with no weight loss. If your husbandry is correct and he isn't losing weight then don't worry. I honnestly think the old story of snakes starving themselves to death is an urban legend. I have heard of it but don't know anyone who has had this happen and if it did there was an underlying cause to it and not just being fussy.

**Pareeeee** · 06-20-13, 09:38 AM

Thanks for your replies. I was thinking he's just being picky but wanted to make sure. Do you handle your BP's at all when they go off food? (since they apparently do it very often) Or do you wait till they eat again?

Aaron, I think I'll hold off on the live rat. He hasn't eaten live since he was basically a hatchling and I don't want to remind him what he's been missing if you know what I mean.
I just found it odd that he went off food since he's always been a ravenous little beast until now.

Terranaut · 06-20-13, 09:42 AM

Mine was ravinous and then nothing. I handle mine all the time.

Lankyrob · 06-20-13, 09:52 AM

I made it a rule to not handle any snake not eating

Terranaut · 06-20-13, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lankyrob

I made it a rule to not handle any snake not eating

I wouldn't handle a snake not eating due to stress but due to breeding season or normal fasting ,I don't see any issue.

Lankyrob · 06-20-13, 12:12 PM

Its totally personal choice, i know. I dont handle my snakes much anyway so if one isnt feeding not hsndling it isnt a major problem.

**Pareeeee** · 07-05-13, 08:28 PM

Now he's just acting like a dummy. I just tried feeding him a few moments ago without success. I tried just leaving him in his enclosure this time instead of a feeding tub, also tried braining the rat.
He first acted interested, then aloof, then annoyed, then terrified. He started hissing at it this time. It's as if his "food phobia" is growing stronger. What a stupid snake. I just wish he'd eat so things can go back to normal....

possum · 07-05-13, 09:51 PM

I wonder how long the heater was malfunctioning? It may have been enough to make him think "winter" & refuse food?

Honestly BP's can be frustrating to feed...you have to keep trying things until you find what works, or get used to waiting, LOL. I've been known to use a small live "appetizer" (eyes closed/harmless) and slowly/gently* follow that with a pre-killed (f/t) rodent of the proper meal size. *If you do it right, when his mouth is open swallowing the 'snack', he will just keep swallowing the additional item. Done wrong (too obviously), he'll curl his neck & refuse it.

I would avoid handling a non-feeding snake as well. It distracts them from "being a snake first".

snakeman879 · 08-03-13, 04:41 AM

Hi I had this happen to me it is extreamly frustrating but all will be fine my ball went off ffeed for 6 months and out ov the blu feeding again as normal just offer food every 2 weeks and keep handeling to a minimum as royalls ar verry nervous at the best ov times all the best

DestinyLynette · 08-03-13, 06:54 PM

Humidity should be 50-60, not 60-70. Nearing 70% is really only appropriate during shed.

However, I'd say your guy is just fine; I've reads stories about people have a BP go off feed for a YEAR. If you really want him eating, try live, maybe a bit smaller than usual, and see if he'll take to it. My guess is a yes.

I'm not overly familiar with f/t myself, but I know it's suggested it's heated to at least 90 all the way through and that you "zombie dance" it lol. My own snakes are on live, but I've fed others' for them f/t and they seem to respond better when I hold the rat / mouse by the tail and move it for them. Maybe also try scenting the air.

If all else fails, don't stress; your snake is capable of going quite a while without food. Sometimes they're just stubborn.

Mikoh4792 · 08-03-13, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DestinyLynette

Humidity should be 50-60, not 60-70. Nearing 70% is really only appropriate during shed.

What do you have to validate this? I've been keeping my ball pythons 60-70% and they are fine.

DestinyLynette · 08-03-13, 08:04 PM

Always been the given rule of thumb with anyone I've ever spoken to. Breeders, BP.net, etc. 50-60% humidity as the norm and then a bump up to 70% when shedding; I've had perfect sheds with this. Best is really at 55-60, but if you're shooting for 50-60 you usually land in the middle anyway. But I've never heard of being close to 70% as a normal.
But for credible sources:
via worldofballpythons.com:

Quote:

A ball pythons humidity should not drop below 50% but 55% - 60% is ideal.

Markus Jayne BP under "care":

Quote:

A humidity level of 60% is recommended.

ball-pythons.net caresheet:

Quote:

HUMIDITY: 50%-60%

Though in all reality, as long as there isn't water collecting on the sides of the tub and the bedding isn't wet, it's more than likely fine. I live in south MS, and the air here is already 40-60%, so admittedly I tend to keep mine a bit lower to allow wiggle room on the extra humid days. Mine personally stays at about 57-62% depending on the day. My housing condenses quickly at very much above 70 so that dictates my choice as well.

Mikoh4792 · 08-03-13, 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DestinyLynette

Always been the given rule of thumb with anyone I've ever spoken to. Breeders, BP.net, etc. 50-60% humidity as the norm and then a bump up to 70% when shedding; I've had perfect sheds with this. Best is really at 55-60, but if you're shooting for 50-60 you usually land in the middle anyway. But I've never heard of being close to 70% as a normal.
But for credible sources:
via worldofballpythons.com:

Markus Jayne BP under "care":

ball-pythons.net caresheet:

Though in all reality, as long as there isn't water collecting on the sides of the tub and the bedding isn't wet, it's more than likely fine. I live in south MS, and the air here is already 40-60%, so admittedly I tend to keep mine a bit lower to allow wiggle room on the extra humid days. Mine personally stays at about 57-62% depending on the day. My housing condenses quickly at very much above 70 so that dictates my choice as well.

I see. You've proven your point that 50-60% is recommended by credible sources. However, you said that nearing 70% is not appropriate unless shedding. Could you explain? My ball pythons have been provided with that humidity range and they have been doing well.(I don't mist, the combination of a low tub and water bowl just gets the humidity that high)