Anyone here have experience with dwarf boa regurgitation??

[Mikoh4792]

Originally Posted by lady_bug87

Alright well let me know how it goes

Will do. I'll update in two weeks.

[Mikoh4792]

Originally Posted by lady_bug87

Alright well let me know how it goes

After she eats does she perch or hide? If she's hiding and the temp in the hide isn't hot enough that could be the issue

That may actually be the issue. She has hides up top but maybe she prefers to be low when she's full and sluggish from the food.

What I'll do is let her recover her digestive fluids for a week or so and once I try feeding her again, if I see that she isn't basking once full, I will move her into a "terrestrial" setup without even waiting for a regurgitation. This way, she can choose warmth and coolness both on the ground instead of having to climb up with a full belly.Thanks for pointing this out.

EDIT: However, her previous owner did tell me he was keeping her on belly heat in a 6wx5hx10L rack system. He also thinks this may be due to shed that hasn't come off... You guys think this is possible?
Edit: He also mentions dropping the temp? I've visited many caresheets and they all say these boas should have a warmer basking spot around 90F. I thought mid 80's was supposed to be the ambient air temperature near the warm side no?

"Your set up looks good, Her cage here was only 6wx5hx10L. Of course for us this was a basic small stock enclosure.You have a more elaborate set up.The highs for her might be to much and if possible I would drop them down to mid 80"s otherwise,good. I think a soak bath as I described may work out, as I said she could have a shed on her and it could be enough to be constricting. Again, I can't tell from pics but if you say her skin has folds that sounds like a shed that is stuck on her."

[lady_bug87]

Stuck shed will not cause a regurge. Lets just agree that you should forget everything this sorry excuse for a breeder says.

[Starbuck]

if you are only offering her arboreal basking sites, she is only going to use arboreal basking sites.

Regardless of whether they climb more/less than mainland bci, you arent really giving her an option. Do you have a small heat pat or something where you could create a warm spot on the bottom of the enclosure as well, that way she can use whichever she prefers?

[Mikoh4792]

Originally Posted by lady_bug87

Stuck shed will not cause a regurge. Lets just agree that you should forget everything this sorry excuse for a breeder says.

agreed

Originally Posted by Starbuck

if you are only offering her arboreal basking sites, she is only going to use arboreal basking sites.

Regardless of whether they climb more/less than mainland bci, you arent really giving her an option. Do you have a small heat pat or something where you could create a warm spot on the bottom of the enclosure as well, that way she can use whichever she prefers?

It's the same with a terrestrial set up. One hot end, one cool end. In a small enclosure whether terrestrial or arboreal you will usually only have one option for a heat source. In a racking system this is usually done with a heat tape, in a small enclosure this is usually done with a heat pad or heat lamp. In the summer time do you really suggest using more than one heat option even for a terrestrial setup?It's a small enclosure, it's summer time. There will only be one source of heat.

I also ordered a magnetic ledge so she can lay on that as well and have a flat basking spot. Whether she is laying on that ledge up high or laying on the floor down low, if it is a hot spot then it is a hot spot no?
I don't understand all this talk about no options. I'm giving her a 90F basking spot. That's her option.

Also you guys talk as if it's bad to have a hotspot on a perch or a ledge at the top of the enclosure. Does the snake really care? In the wild even terrestrial reptiles will sometimes climb up brush and trees to bask in the sun. Do they care that it's on a tree or the ground? They are getting warm and that's the point.


EDIT: I don't mean to be rude but you could read through the thread to see what has already been said and it would answer your questions and respond to your statements. I mentioned when it gets cold in the winter I would be supplementing the heat with a heat pad. Giving her heat on the ground and at the top.

[marvelfreak]

Originally Posted by Aaron_S

It's fine to ask for further detail but not a person has come to say myself or Lady_bug is wrong so it should say something.


So now because you don't want to admit to things being your mistake since you're dead set on the arboreal set up because you think it's best you're now saying that due to it eating on a better schedule it would regurge?

I say your wrong on the arboreal part and here's my proof.

Boa c. imperator Cay Caulker | Stöckl - Die Nr.1 Boa constrictor Seite im Internet

Caulkers Cay Boas are very small boas and adults max out at around 5 feet in length. I have had Females produce litters of 10 or more babies at as little as 45 inches and 3 years of age. They are lean boas and adults may be a thicker than a broom handle. They are more arboreal than most other Boa constrictors because they must take to the trees to avoid predators such as crabs at low tide. Their background color is a very light pastel gray. Their dorsal saddles are a darker steel gray and count 22 – 24 snout to vent. Caulkers Cay Boas are naturally anerythristic or lacking red. Their tail is also dark gray with flecks of brown in it. Some Caulkers Cays Boas are much Darker than others and could have black tails with black saddles. The ventrals on this boa are white and speckled with gray and black. The sides that touch the ventral scales are more speckled with gray & white. This overall gray color is most likely camouflage to blend in with its Mangrove and sandy surroundings.

[Mikoh4792]

edit: deleted because I thought marvel's response was written by Aaron_S. I should have read more carefully.

I was going to say, that furthers my point. If they are up in the trees avoiding predators, that is most likely where they will be getting their heat from. It is contradictory to spend time avoiding predators in the trees only to go down to get heat from the forest floor, leaving them vulnerable. It is more consistent and energy conserving to avoid predators up in the trees and canopy while basking in the heat at the same time.

[lady_bug87]

Thanks for the info Chuck I don't think it changes my opinion on the floor space though

[marvelfreak]

Originally Posted by mikoh4792

That doesn't prove me wrong. If anything it furthers my point by saying that due to their nature they climb up trees. Whether it be to avoid predators, the fact is they still climb. That particular citing says "more arboreal" which is what I have also said. I never said Cay Caulkers were arboreal snakes, I said they were more arboreal and semi-arboreal. Difference.

If they climb up trees to avoid predators then it would be contradictory to go down to the forest/rainforest floor to get heat. It leaves them vulnerable, only to go back up once they want to cool off and start avoiding predators again. It's more consistent and energy conserving to stay up high to get heated and avoid predators at the same time.

Let's say Cay Caulker Boas are strictly a terrestrial group of snakes. Let's say they didn't even climb trees to avoid predators. Where in that citing does it prove this point: "I say your wrong on the arboreal part and here's my proof"

I wasn't saying you where wrong i was saying Aaron was on the arboreal part. I was showing proof to back up the kind of set up you have.

[Mikoh4792]

Originally Posted by marvelfreak

I wasn't saying you where wrong i was saying Aaron was on the arboreal part. I was showing proof to back up the kind of set up you have.

Yes I went back and edited my post. I thought you were Aaron_S using that to refute my argument. I later realized it was you supporting my case and felt stupid. I've been up for about 24 hours now so my mind is a bit dazy. Not going to sleep though, might as well just wait it out and go to sleep early. lol

[marvelfreak]

Originally Posted by lady_bug87

Thanks for the info Chuck I don't think it changes my opinion on the floor space though

I totally agree on the floor space and that it should also be proved belly heat. The problem could be the having to climb up just to get to the heat with a full belly. Note that arboreal snakes are fed smaller meals than say a boa of the same length just because they are perch while digesting their food. Maybe the food is to big for it and something smaller should be tried. Just a thought.

[lady_bug87]

Originally Posted by marvelfreak

I totally agree on the floor space and that it should also be proved belly heat. The problem could be the having to climb up just to get to the heat with a full belly. Note that arboreal snakes are fed smaller meals than say a boa of the same length just because they are perch while digesting their food. Maybe the food is to big for it and something smaller should be tried. Just a thought.

That's what i was getting at.

Thanks Chuck, you're the best

[Mikoh4792]

Originally Posted by marvelfreak

I totally agree on the floor space and that it should also be proved belly heat. The problem could be the having to climb up just to get to the heat with a full belly. Note that arboreal snakes are fed smaller meals than say a boa of the same length just because they are perch while digesting their food. Maybe the food is to big for it and something smaller should be tried. Just a thought.

I do agree. I mentioned earlier that maybe the snake doesn't want to climb up to the basking spot with a full stomach. Because of that point I will wait to see if this holds true the next feeding session. If she doesn't go up to bask after her feeding I am moving her straight away to a longer enclosure with belly heat. I don't want to risk a second regurgitation.

This is nerve racking, especially with this particular snake since she came to me all skinny and wrinkly. And knowing that she has been having problems with the previous owner.

[marvelfreak]

Originally Posted by mikoh4792

I do agree. I mentioned earlier that maybe the snake doesn't want to climb up to the basking spot with a full stomach. Because of that point I will wait to see if this holds true the next feeding session. If she doesn't go up to bask after her feeding I am moving her straight away to a longer enclosure with belly heat. I don't want to risk a second regurgitation.

This is nerve racking, especially with this particular snake since she came to me all skinny and wrinkly. And knowing that she has been having problems with the previous owner.

Don't worry we here to help. Before you know it she'll be doing just fine.

[Mikoh4792]

Originally Posted by marvelfreak

Don't worry we here to help. Before you know it she'll be doing just fine.

I use belly heat with two of my snakes so far. A corn and a king. They like to burrow so I give him extra depth with the bedding and in order to maintain temps I bump up the temp on the thermostat to 97 with the king(gets to 90-95 on the hotspot) and 92 with the corn(gets to about 85-88) on the hotspot.

With this boa whom I have not seen burrowing at all, I will probably give it a thinner layer of bedding. What temps do you guys usually set the thermostat to for heat pads?