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Old 10-09-04, 06:47 PM   #31
mykee
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You don't want a dry environment as was stated above. You just don't want an overly humid environment. 50-60% (as normal) will work well. Just increase the temps and get to a vet.
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Old 10-09-04, 06:55 PM   #32
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Quote:
You don't want a dry environment as was stated above. You just don't want an overly humid environment. 50-60% (as normal) will work well. Just increase the temps and get to a vet.
See what I mean VI by wording somethin wrong? lol.

Mykee, I appogize. Thanks for clearing that up. Apperiate(sp?) it.
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Old 10-09-04, 07:56 PM   #33
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ok, thanks for standing up for a big newbie like myself! Eh, im just wondering how can you keep up the moisture with newspaper? I had damp newspaper in there to get his retained shed off which came off nicely! Im not sure if anything will be open tommowrow because of thanks giving but on tuesday I will get some aspen bedding, a probe and whatever else you guys think I need for a successfull bp and newbie
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Old 10-09-04, 09:26 PM   #34
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When I want to change the humidity I change the size of the water bowl. Another good way to raise humidity is to use moist paper towel. News print doesn't absorb much water, meaning that your ball is sitting on soggy substrate (can lead to skin problems). Have you used a hygrometer to actually measure the humidity? I find that my snakes normally stay about 55-65 with very little intervention on my part.
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Old 10-09-04, 09:35 PM   #35
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Well here's my advice. I figured I'd let everyone yell at everyone else before I added in my two cents.

First off it sounds like your little guy has a very mild RI infection......if any at all. If the humidity is kept too low sometimes shed skin gets stuck in the nostrils and makes them whistle when they breathe. This can be missidentified as a RI infection. Before doing anything I'd check to make sure he doesn't have any restricted breathing. Clogged nostrils are very common when you keep them on any type of mulch or bark chips.

Now, for treating a mild RI infection I wouldn't go to the vet. First off I'd put him in a rubbermaid (Balls do better in rubbermaids anyways). You'll want to give him a hot spot of 100-110 F and put his hide box on the hot spot. Also, you'll want to INCREASE the humidity as close to 100% as possible. The higher humidity will increase his metabolism to help fight off any infection. The higher humidity will help break up all the flem in his system to help clear him up quicker.

I've seen all the posts above where people advise to lower the humidity. IMHO this is the wrong thing to do. How many of you have had a stuffed up nose and then had a really hot shower.......makes you breathe a whole lot better doesn't it? If the snake can clear out his system of flem it'll reduce his stress level as well as giving his lungs a chance to heal.

Cold and wet isn't good..................hot and wet is good. Actually, the hotter you get him the more water you need to give him. The higher temps not only increase his metabolism it also evaporates all the water too. If the snake is allowed to get dehydrated (which happens quickly with high temps) you'll end up killing him.

After all this is said my question to everyone is..................how many people above advising to use lower humidity to treat an RI have actually treated an RI infection using this method? I think this is another case of people offering up advice without having done it themselves..........verbal diarhea?.........Oh, theirs me sounding like a prick again (don't worry.......I make it look easy...lol).

Good luck with your snake.
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Old 10-09-04, 09:38 PM   #36
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Above I should have said the following in the third paragraph -

The higher temps will increase his metabolism to help fight off any infection. The higher humidity will help break up all the flem in his system to help clear him up quicker.

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Old 10-09-04, 09:40 PM   #37
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ya I have a hydrometer and it was at 40% so somone told me to put newspaper and wet it down nicely, not like sitting watter but nicely wet. It seemed to fix my problem well and now my humidity is at 60-65%. my mom is gonna take my snake to the vet for a full check-up when she goes to work (her break). Im just wondering how she can keep my snake nice and warm for 2-3 hours at the most. Will cardboard hold in the heat good? maybe I will put in a nice warm water bag to keep it warm? I will take all ideas into consideration.
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Old 10-09-04, 09:50 PM   #38
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Corey, im actually gonna make a rack system next week. If i get a rubbermaid can i just put the rubbermaid inside his 40 gallon on top of the uth or do you think he can wait till next week, right now I can keep the humidity to 90-100% humidity for 2 hours but I will cover up the top so less humidity will be lost. When I go to school i will give a nice mist and when I come home a nice mist will happen. Ok, another question we went to walmart today and I told my dad that people keep there snakes in rubbermaid containers and of course he thought, oh thats BS! He also thinks 2 mice every 4 days is BS! If you guys can confirm its not BS then I can show my dad and he will believe me. Heh heh, i'l show him
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Old 10-09-04, 09:55 PM   #39
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Coolers and styrofoam hold heat really well. Be careful with your heat sources. It's better the snake be a little cool than A LOT warm.
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Old 10-09-04, 10:01 PM   #40
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Quote:
ok, thanks for standing up for a big newbie like myself!
We all learn somethin new or improve on something everyday. That's human nature.
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Old 10-09-04, 10:10 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VI Reptiles
Ok, another question we went to walmart today and I told my dad that people keep there snakes in rubbermaid containers and of course he thought, oh thats BS! He also thinks 2 mice every 4 days is BS! If you guys can confirm its not BS then I can show my dad and he will believe me. Heh heh, i'l show him
I keep 13 out of 15 snakes in rubbermaids. They are easy to clean, they stack well and occupy little space, they don't break, they don't need specially custom built lids and they're cheap. However many are escapable. You can skimp out and buy the cheap ones then weight down the crappy lids, but the lids bend and don't last long. I prefer the ones with swing-up lids, fastened at one end with latches on the other.
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Old 10-10-04, 12:30 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally posted by VI Reptiles
ugh, to go to a vet I have to drive 70km.......... probably $40 on fuel there then another 100+ just to pay for the medicine etc.... Is it worth it even??? $100 snake and pay $140 for it?
My snake's vet is 100 km away. I took the afternoon of work to go drop of a fecal sample! Cost is never something that comes to mind when I think my snake may be ill.

You should try a pet rock. Very easy maintenence, and no vet bills! And I hear breeding is a snap too! Go get 'um tiger! Roooaarrr!!
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Old 10-10-04, 07:48 AM   #43
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I keep my pine in a Sterlite sweaterbox. He does great. Heat and humidity is far easier to control then the glass cages. Just as long as a thermostat/rehostat is used if using a pad. And ventilation is bein incorperated in the enclosure.

I'm currently movin my pythons to 3ft Sterlite enclosures soon as I get over this damn cold, lol.

Best feature is, you can stack! Saves space.

Um bout the mouse feeding issue. Is your dad shocked snakes have a slower metabolism or he doesn't believe their diet in captivity is rodents?
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Old 10-10-04, 10:26 AM   #44
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Eh, ok, i'l show my dad what you guys said and he thinks that im over feeding my snake with 2 adult mice.....
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Old 10-10-04, 02:21 PM   #45
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How big is the snake girthwise? Babies can take rat pups. A full adult can easily take a lg or jumbo rat pending on the girth. Some feed 1lb rabbits to some of their balls, most likely the females. But I haven't gone the route yet. Maybe someone who feeds rabbits to their BP's can clarify more.
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