Trying to fit things in

[jjhill001]

Originally Posted by Heidyth

Thanks I will keep the small water dish.

I've got to agree with Andy, outside of severe dehydration or parasites a snake has really no reason other than predators or hunting (think water snakes) to get into water which lowers body temp and therefore the ability of the snake to be active.

I imagine that the anecdotes about water bowls you've mentioned are coming from folks who are keeping their snakes too hot. Happens with colubrids a lot because many of the caresheets out nowadays are old and still call for the 90+ degree hotspots and warm ambient's that just aren't beneficial to the vast majority of North American colubrids.

[Andy_G]

Originally Posted by jjhill001

I imagine that the anecdotes about water bowls you've mentioned are coming from folks who are keeping their snakes too hot. Happens with colubrids a lot because many of the caresheets out nowadays are old and still call for the 90+ degree hotspots and warm ambient's that just aren't beneficial to the vast majority of North American colubrids.

In regards to most of the caresheets on hognose snakes, the opposite would be true. Any care sheets suggesting temps without this kind of hotspot would be outdated and written in times where nobody could get their snakes feeding consistently and pooly calficied eggs plagued a lot of breeders. Temps of 80-82 to 90-92 will not cause soaking in western hognose snakes but will alleviate most feeding and reproductive issues. If one doesn't mind encountering these issues, by all means go with the "normal" temp ranges for other north american colubrids of low 70's to low 80's.

[jjhill001]

Originally Posted by Andy_G

In regards to most of the caresheets on hognose snakes, the opposite would be true. Any care sheets suggesting temps without this kind of hotspot would be outdated and written in times where nobody could get their snakes feeding consistently and pooly calficied eggs plagued a lot of breeders. Temps of 80-82 to 90-92 will not cause soaking in western hognose snakes but will alleviate most feeding and reproductive issues. If one doesn't mind encountering these issues, by all means go with the "normal" temp ranges for other north american colubrids of low 70's to low 80's.

I'm not gonna claim that I'm an expert on hognoses but I've yet to see a snake that I can't keep the way I do. However until I grab one of these little guys I'll defer to those who have.

[Andy_G]

Originally Posted by jjhill001

I'm not gonna claim that I'm an expert on hognoses but I've yet to see a snake that I can't keep the way I do. However until I grab one of these little guys I'll defer to those who have.

I don't doubt your skills. This species is an odd one...kind of similar to how central/south american cribos don't do great with the typical warmer temps of a lot of central american snakes.

[Heidyth]

So is the heat supplied by a UTH on a Thermostat set at 90F going to be a good range in a 10 gallon? I plan to have at least 3 hides plus about 2 to 4 inches of substrate as it grows. Is a basking lamp plus the UTH to much heat? I do plan to get a 32x16x16 approx. tank later when it becomes an adult.

[jjhill001]

Originally Posted by Heidyth

So is the heat supplied by a UTH on a Thermostat set at 90F going to be a good range in a 10 gallon? I plan to have at least 3 hides plus about 2 to 4 inches of substrate as it grows. Is a basking lamp plus the UTH to much heat? I do plan to get a 32x16x16 approx. tank later when it becomes an adult.

Gonna depend on how big the heater is. I know Andy said 90F but I can't imagine half the tank being 90F being a good idea. More like a 1/3 or so. Lets see if he'll chime in again.

[Andy_G]

Originally Posted by jjhill001

Gonna depend on how big the heater is. I know Andy said 90F but I can't imagine half the tank being 90F being a good idea. More like a 1/3 or so. Lets see if he'll chime in again.

Exactly right.

Depending on ambient temps, the light may be too much. You'll have to experiment with this and adjust accordingly.