General newb questioning!!?!

[Chu'Wuti]

For all my setups, reptile or amphibian I bake all my substrate to "165*" to kill bacteria and eggs. Then after it COOLS I setup my aquariums. I don't store my dang snake at 165degrees!!!! Ha

I am greatly relieved! Whew! :-)

You're getting lots of advice and some good information. It can help to differentiate between advice and information. While I agree that overfeeding is not healthy--overfeeding young humans doesn't make them grow UP faster, it makes them obese, and the same applies to other animals--underfeeding isn't wise either. The 10-15% weight rule is a good one but I will add just a small tweak: one of the experts on this forum told me 10% for maintenance, 15% for steady growth at an appropriate rate. I feed juvies about 15%--obviously, it can be difficult to be exact as prey sizes vary some; I make it a rule never to go above 20% of the snake's body weight if I don't have something closer to 15%.

If I have to feed under 15%, I keep an eye on that juvie for early signs of hunting. That's a good reason for a range in the time between feedings. If I've had to feed something smaller, then feeding earlier might be good, especially for a juvie. So then feeding every 5 days is more appropriate than holding off to 7.

As the snake matures, I gradually reduce the meal size to about 10% of the adult body weight.

As for larger meals making the snake lethargic--absolutely! How do you feel after a huge feast? I don't feel like moving!

The less the snake moves around between meals, the more likely it is to become obese. Also, while feeding larger meals (aka power feeding) may bring it to sexual maturity faster, it isn't healthy; in fact, it's likely to contribute to decreased life span. I can be patient and wait for my snakes to achieve sexual maturity later when it means they will be healthier because I believe that a healthier father/mother will have healthier offspring.

Just my $0.2.

[drewkore]

I initially thought you may be a troll when you stated 165 degrees! Otherwise it sounds like you are on the right path. The only thing I would like to add is that as someone else already mentioned, I feel it is better to feed mice for the life of the rosy. Just my personal opinion based on my experience of many years of rosy keeping.

[Donnie]

Originally Posted by Aaron_S

Preference is where you're wrong.

My method, through a lot of bookkeeping and trial and error I found that smaller meals roughly 10% - 15% of body weight had the snakes keeping the most amount of their meal for growth and the like.

I found larger meals left them digesting for too long and more lethargic and the growth rate wasn't as steady or as good as smaller meals. The snake wasted more of the meal.

This is just my findings and doesn't make it scientific but it's what I like to see in my collection.

Do you use this method with various species and get the same results?

[ZeldaTheRosy]

Originally Posted by Aaron_S

Preference is where you're wrong.

My method, through a lot of bookkeeping and trial and error I found that smaller meals roughly 10% - 15% of body weight had the snakes keeping the most amount of their meal for growth and the like.

I found larger meals left them digesting for too long and more lethargic and the growth rate wasn't as steady or as good as smaller meals. The snake wasted more of the meal.

This is just my findings and doesn't make it scientific but it's what I like to see in my collection.

Went back and Reread an older post, alright makes more sense now. My girlfriends picking up some food for me on her way cross state to see me. I'll try to get ahold of a scale to get a good perspective of what 10-15% of Zelda is, and what it should look like as far as amount.

Just throwing some thoughts around it seems the easiest way to monitor it would be with a digital scale. Eyeballing it likely wouldn't be accurate maybe the mice weight is '+ -'at the time. I believe I am catching on now.

[ZeldaTheRosy]

That's a good question Donnie

[Aaron_S]

Originally Posted by ZeldaTheRosy

Went back and Reread an older post, alright makes more sense now. My girlfriends picking up some food for me on her way cross state to see me. I'll try to get ahold of a scale to get a good perspective of what 10-15% of Zelda is, and what it should look like as far as amount.

Just throwing some thoughts around it seems the easiest way to monitor it would be with a digital scale. Eyeballing it likely wouldn't be accurate maybe the mice weight is '+ -'at the time. I believe I am catching on now.

If it's slightly above or below the desired weight it's okay. I'd use my method as a guideline. It won't hurt the snake to be 20% if that's what you currently have.

For my personal use I have a rodent supplier. He's able to get me my rodents at a preferred weight. For example all my babies at a certain size are fed 30 - 40 grams rat and I ONLY buy that size.

[Aaron_S]

Originally Posted by Donnie

Do you use this method with various species and get the same results?

Yes I have. Multiple species seem to take very well with it. Due note, I've had more experienced with boas and pythons with this method as opposed to colubrids first hand but colubrids need to be fed more frequently anyway and I would suggest smaller prey items in that regard as well.

I even have friends who have taken to this method and have seen a noticeable weight gain in their animals over a small period of time. They will stop gaining so much and plateau in a bit and then shortly after it's time for a prey size increase.

[ZeldaTheRosy]

Chu, wow, great clear write up. Based on your thinking, which I liked how you stated you "max%", and what % when/why, awesome!! Now my only question (I think, for now) : let's say I cannot get the % above "13" without jumping to "19" would it be better to under feed(still in range) rather than apart stuff her.


I did notice that for two nights after feeding her the 3 pinkies(her largest meal ever) I did not see her leave her hide spot aside from change positions inside. Thinking back, I haven't had her long, only acouple feedings I believe on 2 pinkies she was active the following night. I will have to pay attention to her behavior closer now to see what her norm is. I don't want an Obese snake.

[ZeldaTheRosy]

Originally Posted by Aaron_S

If it's slightly above or below the desired weight it's okay. I'd use my method as a guideline. It won't hurt the snake to be 20% if that's what you currently have.

For my personal use I have a rodent supplier. He's able to get me my rodents at a preferred weight. For example all my babies at a certain size are fed 30 - 40 grams rat and I ONLY buy that size.

Well, the breeder I know, whom I got the rosy from breeds and sells $500 bucks of various sized rodents. I believe it's rats only.

[Aaron_S]

Originally Posted by ZeldaTheRosy

Chu, wow, great clear write up. Based on your thinking, which I liked how you stated you "max%", and what % when/why, awesome!! Now my only question (I think, for now) : let's say I cannot get the % above "13" without jumping to "19" would it be better to under feed(still in range) rather than apart stuff her.


I did notice that for two nights after feeding her the 3 pinkies(her largest meal ever) I did not see her leave her hide spot aside from change positions inside. Thinking back, I haven't had her long, only acouple feedings I believe on 2 pinkies she was active the following night. I will have to pay attention to her behavior closer now to see what her norm is. I don't want an Obese snake.

It depends on the snake and species to make that jump. The snake will adjust and you'll see a noticeable growth spurt and most likely a shed cycle with the prey size jump. It won't harm the snake to eat a 19% meal, even for a couple feedings.

It's tricky when switching prey sizes because the animal may be too big for one meal and too small for another so just take whatever you feel most comfortable with.

[ZeldaTheRosy]

Originally Posted by Aaron_S

If it's slightly above or below the desired weight it's okay. I'd use my method as a guideline. It won't hurt the snake to be 20% if that's what you currently have.

This is pretty close to answering my question to Chu,

So would it be "better" the feed at 19+% when I must, or settle for an above 10% below 14%?
I hope im laying that question out clearly, I know numbers and get confusing.

Just read your post #40, so basically just try to responsibly judge it based on how she accepts it, sort of.

I will state, right now my questions are simply hypothetical; I haven't even begun weighing her or meals. I will track down a good scale to use before next feeding; on my birthday June 30th.

[Chu'Wuti]

ZeldaTheRosy, I agree with Aaron_S:

It won't hurt the snake to be 20% if that's what you currently have.

That is to say, occasional higher-weight meals are not going to hurt a growing juvie or even an adult.

I would rather feed a little too much to a juvie than feed too little. So 19+% is fine if that's all you have.

basically just try to responsibly judge it based on how she accepts it, sort of.

Yes.

This is a pretty accurate scale that isn't too expensive: Amazon.com: My Weigh KD-7000 Digital Stainless-Steel Food Scale,Black: Home & Kitchen

I have one, and it has served me well for several years.

[Pareeeee]

You may have already been given this info, I just saw this thread now, but I don't want to read through every single post, here goes.

I hope you switch from sand. I bought sand and loved the look of it/ease of cleaning, but noticed it was getting in between his scales. I read that this can cause irritation for the snake. If you do change, I suggest aspen, not coco husk, since coco husk maintains moisture. Which brings me to my second point. Be sure you keep his humidity low, small water dish on the cool side, plenty of ventilation. Rosies like approx 30%.

Warm side should be 85-90F and cool side 75-80, respectively. One of the few species I would recommend a heat lamp for, since it helps keep the enclosure dry.

Be sure you are feeding large enough prey. Mice should be the width of the widest part of the snake's body. It's great that she's on frozen mice. Mine eats like a pig all summer, then goes off food for about 6 months every winter. Because he does this I have learned to let him eat as much as he wants. Not all rosies will do the 'no eating' thing, but don't be alarmed if the appetite dims around October.

Also, young snakes need to eat more than adults, don't skimp on the food please

[ZeldaTheRosy]

Cool, as mentioned earlier in my thread(and other research) sand seemed just fine, aside from ingesting something feed and being sharp. As I mentioned I don't feed in tank so that is not an issue, but the sand in the scales is another issue I'd like to avoid; ill look into this change. Coco husk is suppose to also be sharp, sharper than sand, so of course that's a no not. Ill check out the aspen.


Yep, I'm learning alot more as far as feeding goes. "Everyone" made it seem like snakes eat only on a monthly basis! Who knew these things ate weekly!
I am upping my feedings since posting this. From 13 days, I am at 9 days right now, and I'll cut it to 7 day intervals.
I over thought it, and said I didn't want to feed her at 13 days and then suddenly at 7, I wanted to attempt a quick way to smoothly jump into a shorter interval. Does that make sense?

As far as water dish goes, I haven't spoken much about. I made a water dish from clay, it's 6 inches long, 3 inches wide and less than an inch deep. My routine is feed the snake and have full water bowl, the water evaporated pretty quickly 3 days, maybe alittle water on day 4, but day 5-6-7 is Bone dry, then back to water and food.
(the water has been consistent/the feedings were not weekly until now)
It seeeeems fine.
I have two tanks of Cuban tree frogs who I monitor humidity religiously for, they tend to hover on the low sideo 70%, I have their tanks covered so they retain the moisture. From seeing how "wet" their enclosure is and how the humidity is effected I believe the Rosys enclosure, completely open except for the lamp sitting ontop, and only a small water bowl only sometimes filled I believe humidity is no issue.
My idea behind this is, even though the water bowl has a fair amount of surface area I believe the dry days help keep the tanks moisture down.
Also when filling it I'm real anal about not spilling any water in the sand no overflow ever.

[Mikoh4792]

Aspen is sharper and rougher then cocohusk. The cocohusk I use is really soft and and smooth. You can also use cocohusk dry.

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