What Herp Do I Get? - Page 2

**Aaron_S** · 11-24-12, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EmbraceCalamity

That's not at all helpful, as I don't live in southeast Texas and our humidity during the winter isn't 100% and the humidity in the setup isn't high enough.

I just need to know how to raise the humidity or find an animal that doesn't require tons of humidity. That's all I'm asking for.

~Maggot

You're not going to find your choice animal I think that will live in your specific enclosure.

It's rather difficult since most low humidity animals are terrestrial and your enclosure is set for arboreal.

Personally, green anoles.

reptileexperts · 11-24-12, 02:00 PM

Actually it is helpful . . . it means that humidity can be raised fine with the proper substrate and large enough water bowl with perhaps the lamp shining over the water to allow for quicker evaporation. If you can mist every 2-3 days and keep the cypress damp and not "wet" you'll have no issues with humidity. You can also place a wet rag on the top of screening. This will drip all day into the cage and seal off the places where heat exits with the humidity. It helps to cycle the air inside the enclosure. . . but then again what do I know?

EmbraceCalamity · 11-24-12, 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aaron_S

You're not going to find your choice animal I think that will live in your specific enclosure.

It's rather difficult since most low humidity animals are terrestrial and your enclosure is set for arboreal.

Personally, green anoles.

I suspected (except for the monkey frogs), hence my question about raising the humidity levels.

Quote:

Originally Posted by reptileexperts

Actually it is helpful . . . it means that humidity can be raised fine with the proper substrate and large enough water bowl with perhaps the lamp shining over the water to allow for quicker evaporation. If you can mist every 2-3 days and keep the cypress damp and not "wet" you'll have no issues with humidity. You can also place a wet rag on the top of screening. This will drip all day into the cage and seal off the places where heat exits with the humidity. It helps to cycle the air inside the enclosure. . . but then again what do I know?

How did any of that come from your post that you live in southeast Texas with 100% humidity so you have no problems with humidity in your setup? I can try all of that, but I seriously doubt that's going to bring my humidity up to tropical levels because I live in a dry house in a dry area during a dry winter. I'll try it anyway though. But wouldn't heat and humidity exit more out the front, not the top?

~Maggot

dinosaurdammit · 11-24-12, 02:53 PM

whats the humidity like for tokays? those things are awesome

EmbraceCalamity · 11-24-12, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dinosaurdammit

whats the humidity like for tokays? those things are awesome

Same, very high.

~Maggot

Terranaut · 11-24-12, 02:59 PM

Standings Day Gecko. Doesn't require much humidity and loves the type of enclosure you have.
Mine

EmbraceCalamity · 11-24-12, 03:04 PM

That's a good idea, and that's a pretty gecko.

How many could live in a 33 gallon?

~Maggot

Terranaut · 11-25-12, 11:48 AM

It's funny I was going to post a link to a care sheet but the 3 I read through all said different stuff. I only keep one. I know they like lots of room and hardly ever walk on the ground. They are not good for handling and move at sub warp speeds

They eat meal worms, crickets and small dubia as well I keep a small blob of gecko diet in there and he eats it too. They rarely drink from a bowl but preffer to lick their water off a branch or vine so daily misting is important. My snake room is 50% humidity and I mist every night before bed. Mine will hand feed but is still quite skiddish. I do not supplement calcium on the insects as there is added calcium in the gecko diet I use. I keep my temps about 87-90 during the day and falls to 75 at night. I have ambient natural light in the room so I do not use a uv light in the viv. Your light inside your viv like that is a danger to anything that climbs or jumps so I would change it. I can't think of anything else but if you do just ask. The paterns on them are hard to see in low light but when the sun hits him its quite dramatic. This is my first "display" pet. I like to handle my reptiles but these have very thin skin so handling is to be avoided.

EmbraceCalamity · 11-25-12, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Terranaut

It's funny I was going to post a link to a care sheet but the 3 I read through all said different stuff. I only keep one. I know they like lots of room and hardly ever walk on the ground. They are not good for handling and move at sub warp speeds

They eat meal worms, crickets and small dubia as well I keep a small blob of gecko diet in there and he eats it too. They rarely drink from a bowl but preffer to lick their water off a branch or vine so daily misting is important. My snake room is 50% humidity and I mist every night before bed. Mine will hand feed but is still quite skiddish. I do not supplement calcium on the insects as there is added calcium in the gecko diet I use. I keep my temps about 87-90 during the day and falls to 75 at night. I have ambient natural light in the room so I do not use a uv light in the viv. Your light inside your viv like that is a danger to anything that climbs or jumps so I would change it. I can't think of anything else but if you do just ask. The paterns on them are hard to see in low light but when the sun hits him its quite dramatic. This is my first "display" pet. I like to handle my reptiles but these have very thin skin so handling is to be avoided.

1) You mean CGD, right?
2) I thought windows are built to filter out UVB? I'd probably get a UVB just to be safe.
3) Sorry, how is it a danger? I'm a little confused about that.
4) I'm not really into handling. I'm happy to if the reptile is one for handling, but I have plenty of other pets that really enjoy it.