can i get a little advice? - Page 2

Psyche · 12-19-11, 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snakey-Jay-BRB

Brb's are quite shy snakes anyway... Mine is usually hiding and from what I've heard, a lot of people's are the same.
Just a quick question, how many times have you attempted to feed since you got it? If your trying too often it will stress your little guy out... Good luck

I tried a couple days after i got her because thats when she would have been fed again and then i tried again yesterday (as suggested by my friend)

SnakeyJay · 12-19-11, 04:36 PM

Well hopefully with a bit of time he'll be eating like a pig for you. Sometimes when sasha won't strike I'll heat the head up extra hot... And "wham" she hits it like a pro

Psyche · 12-19-11, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snakey-Jay-BRB

Well hopefully with a bit of time he'll be eating like a pig for you. Sometimes when sasha won't strike I'll heat the head up extra hot... And "wham" she hits it like a pro

yea im wondering if i'm not heating it up enough or something cause i heard that if its not warm enough she won't strike at it. how do you suggest i warm it up?

Lankyrob · 12-19-11, 05:11 PM

I press the skull of the prey items against a hot radiator for a few seconds before feeding all my snakes.

Psyche · 12-19-11, 05:17 PM

That's a pretty good idea

BlindOne · 12-19-11, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Psyche

I tried a couple days after i got her because thats when she would have been fed again and then i tried again yesterday (as suggested by my friend)

Are you feeding the snake live or pre-killed items? I had a litter of BRB babies about 5 months ago and they're still taking live pinky rats. I usually put the pinkies in a cup overnight and they're gone in the morning.

I'd also suggest that you keep the snake in an enclosed container on cypress mulch to keep the humidity very high. If you can see condensation on the lid, it's perfect! You'll also only want the warm end of the container to be ~90 degrees, they don't need much heat.

I hope this helps

Psyche · 12-19-11, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlindOne

Are you feeding the snake live or pre-killed items? I had a litter of BRB babies about 5 months ago and they're still taking live pinky rats. I usually put the pinkies in a cup overnight and they're gone in the morning.

I'd also suggest that you keep the snake in an enclosed container on cypress mulch to keep the humidity very high. If you can see condensation on the lid, it's perfect! You'll also only want the warm end of the container to be ~90 degrees, they don't need much heat.

I hope this helps

I've been trying to feed her F\T because... well i THINK that's what the guy i got her from was feeding her but i'm not completely sure in all honesty.

CDN_Blood · 12-20-11, 07:12 AM

It can often take a live feeding or two to peak the snake's interest in feeding, but once you get it to eat a couple of times, it's usually very easy to switch it to f/t food. As folks are mentioning, young Rainbows are quite shy, so it's not likely to eat in front of you, or in the day time.

Young Rainbows will generally only move around at night when the lights are off, but once they start getting some size to them, they'll feel more comfortable trucking around while lights are on and while you're in the room.

Btw, I'm glad you didn't just give-up on trying to find some sound advice. I know how frustrating some other forums can be. A couple in particular are simply volatile places where if you don't belong to a clique the mods are in, you're in for a really rocky ride, but like has been said here numerous times, you've come to the right place. There are a large number of knowledgable folks here who are totally willing to help without the drama you may have experienced elsewhere, so Welcome Aboard! <sets a plate of cookies in the middle of the room for everyone>

KORBIN5895 · 12-20-11, 08:38 AM

Pm Mr one of those places Todd cause it sounds way fun.

Psyche · 12-20-11, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CDN_Blood

It can often take a live feeding or two to peak the snake's interest in feeding, but once you get it to eat a couple of times, it's usually very easy to switch it to f/t food. As folks are mentioning, young Rainbows are quite shy, so it's not likely to eat in front of you, or in the day time.

mmkay, my concern is that I've heard that live prey items can injure the snake and if she's never out when i can see her how will i make sure she doesn't get hurt?

i know i'm asking a LOT of questions, i'm just trying to be the best snake owner i can be

Gungirl · 12-20-11, 02:35 PM

How large is the snake in question? I had my GTP go on a hunger strike, He was eating small rats. I always feed him F/t. He was under weight when I got him so I didn't want to let him go to long seeing as I was still trying to help him gain weight. I offered him a live rat pink and he snatched it right up. I then offered him an F/t small rat and he took that too. So even if your snake is eating larger prey go the safe route and offer just a small pink or hopper to get it going again. This will eliminate the fear of the snake being hurt by its food.

Psyche · 12-20-11, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gungirl

How large is the snake in question? I had my GTP go on a hunger strike, He was eating small rats. I always feed him F/t. He was under weight when I got him so I didn't want to let him go to long seeing as I was still trying to help him gain weight. I offered him a live rat pink and he snatched it right up. I then offered him an F/t small rat and he took that too. So even if your snake is eating larger prey go the safe route and offer just a small pink or hopper to get it going again. This will eliminate the fear of the snake being hurt by its food.

Alright i'll give that a try, mine eats mice hoppers so i'll try with a pink

CDN_Blood · 12-20-11, 03:49 PM

Well, don't be too worried about it, just monitor the situation and *never* leave a mouse in with it if the snake isn't interested. If it'll make you feel better (if you have to resort to a live feeding or two to kick-start the snake), keep a large spoon or cooking spoon handy that you could stick between the mouse's teeth and the snake if you see it doing damage.

Many snakes live long, damage-free lives catching live prey in the wild, so don't let it scare you too much - they're a lot tougher and more skilled than most folks give them credit for. They evolved how they did for a reason

BlindOne · 12-20-11, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Psyche

mmkay, my concern is that I've heard that live prey items can injure the snake and if she's never out when i can see her how will i make sure she doesn't get hurt?

I don't think it's a concern when you're dealing with rat or mouse pinkies. I put them in little cups that they can't get out of but the snake can get into.

MoreliAddict · 12-20-11, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Psyche

mmkay, my concern is that I've heard that live prey items can injure the snake and if she's never out when i can see her how will i make sure she doesn't get hurt?

i know i'm asking a LOT of questions, i'm just trying to be the best snake owner i can be

simply putting the mouse in the cage may give your snake what we call a *feeding response (snake looks for, and gets ready to strike at food) from the scent of the mouse alone. this would draw the snake out from hiding. If the snake doesn't approach the mouse whatsoever after a half hour, take out the mouse, dont stress, and try feeding again in a week.