Just bought Dumerils Boa

[Marica]

Grats on the nice Dum forza_inter and welcome to the forum.

What are you using to measure the temperature in your tank? 1 heat source should be okay, and if you find the light is working well than I wouldn't bother adding a mat. If you do find that you need to use a heat mat and a heat lamp, they should be on the same side, as you want one side of the enclosure to be warm and one cooler.

Both of my little guys are in 20L Critter Cages with aspen bedding and an UTH for a heat source. Though as stated above there are several options for substrate and heating, you just have to figure out what works best for you and your snake.

Dums usually like to borrow, so plenty of substrate is always nice. For your enclosure I would recommend more cover (some plants or vines) and/or attach a print or aquarium backing to the sides and back of the tank to make it seem more enclosed.

I find I need to up the humidity when my guys go into shed so I give them a moist hide, mist occasionally and partially cover there tanks with a damp towel.

Good luck with your new girl and don't forget to post more pics of her once she's settled in.

[forza_inter]

Originally Posted by Marica

Grats on the nice Dum forza_inter and welcome to the forum.

What are you using to measure the temperature in your tank? 1 heat source should be okay, and if you find the light is working well than I wouldn't bother adding a mat. If you do find that you need to use a heat mat and a heat lamp, they should be on the same side, as you want one side of the enclosure to be warm and one cooler.

Both of my little guys are in 20L Critter Cages with aspen bedding and an UTH for a heat source. Though as stated above there are several options for substrate and heating, you just have to figure out what works best for you and your snake.

Dums usually like to borrow, so plenty of substrate is always nice. For your enclosure I would recommend more cover (some plants or vines) and/or attach a print or aquarium backing to the sides and back of the tank to make it seem more enclosed.

I find I need to up the humidity when my guys go into shed so I give them a moist hide, mist occasionally and partially cover there tanks with a damp towel.

Good luck with your new girl and don't forget to post more pics of her once she's settled in.

thanks marica.....at the moment i dont have anything measuring the temp....im in the process of getting a thermometer and humidity gauge tho, so hopefully in the next day or 2. i have the 1 heat lamp at the moment, but because its a larger enclosure, i dont think shes getting the warmth she needs. thats why i was thinking of getting a heat mat as well.

im going to put the mat on the same side as the lamp (as you and a few other people suggested) and i was wondering what i should have under the light, in the cooler area and which side the water should be on?

im also looking into getting more hides and some foliage as well

[forza_inter]

Originally Posted by MoonlightBoas

Welcome to the forum, and grats on picking up a Dumerils Boa. They're definitely one of my favorites. It looks like you have a pretty nice cage setup. Although Dumerils do well with Aspen Bedding, other substrates work fine too. I typically use a temperature gradient from 75-85 degrees, and around 40-60 percent humidity. Unless you live in the desert, you probably don't need to be too concerned with humidity as long as she's eating and shedding well. Under-tank heat pads work great, and should always be connected to a thermostat. Also, I'd consider changing your white light to red. Although Dumerils boas aren't completely nocturnal, they're most active at nighttime. I hope this helps out. I also wrote a detailed Dumerils Boa Care Sheet. I'd be happy to answer any questions you have.

thanks alot, i printed out the care sheet and added it to my other ones. its nice to see a lot of helpful owners in the forums. i appreciate all the help everyone has given me so far

humidity is another worry i have....how can i tell if its humid enough for her?

and yes the red light seems like a better idea....the white is way too bright, and if i ever do need to leave a light on all night, i would rather it be a dimmer kind so i dont confuse her with day/ night

[BHR]

never leave a heat lamp inside of the incluser with out some kind of guard tho i have seen snakes with real bad burns to the point that they had to be pud down .Just a word of cushion .here are my dums


I should be having little ones in the next 5 or 6 weeks

[BHR]

By Nick Findlay. Reviewed by Roy Stockwell.


Dumeril Boas (Acrantophis dumerili)

They are great boas… gorgeous unique pattern, get a reasonable size and are super docile!

Distribution:

Dumeril's Boas are only native to Madagascar. They can be found in an area called the Spiny Desert, the Spiny Desert is a region that looks like the desert areas in the southern United States, like New Mexico and Arizona.

The majority of Dumeril's Boas available for sale are all captive produced. They are CITES 1 protected and no longer exported from the wild.

Size:

This is a fairly heavy bodied boa. They tend to grow slowly. Babies are large and measure approximately 18” to 20”. Males mature at - 5’ ft. Adult females’ average 5’ – 6’ ft. They usually weigh less then 20 pounds.

Housing:

You can house your juvenile in a Rubbermaid or Sterilite bin rack. Adults should be housed in a cage that measures at least 4’ long x 2’ deep.

For substrate you can use aspen shavings, coconut husk or even cypress mulch or newspaper. Dumeril Boas love to burrow so a deep substrate or /and a hide are good options. Babies especially feed better if given some cover

Provide your Dumeril with a hot spot of 85-90F and and cold end temperature of 78F - 80F. This can easily be achieved by using an Under Tank Heater (UTH) or heat tape, placed on the one side of the cage, and controlled by a thermostat.
Gravid females will seek out hot spots of 90F and sit there weeks on end while gestating babies.

Humidity levels aren't critical. A large water bowl should be provided for this species .

Lighting:

Dumeril’s are nocturnal and do not require any light other than room lighting. A small fluorescent light could be used to show off your enclosure. However, if you provide lighting, put it on a timer and have it off at night.

Feeding:

Young Dumeril’s can be fed on mice or small rats weekly. Start with mice or rat fuzzies, the prey size should be increased as the boa grows. Live feed will often entice a better feeding response especially from neonates.

Adults can be fed every 2 or 3 weeks on large rats. Preovulation females should be fed heavily in the fall and winter if babies are desired.

Prey items should be no bigger around than the Dumeril Boas girth. Adults will take full grown rats.

Setting up babies in a 12 – 15 quart Rubbermaid or Sterilite bin, with 1 -2” of bedding so they can burrow. They like to hide under their substrate and strike from underneath. Start with live then switch to F/T if that is more convenient. Most will take dead prey at night once they are established and feeding.


Breeding Dumeril Boas:

This is not a fast growing species, sometimes it can take as long as 5 years to reach sexual maturity. Feed them well, but don't try to push them. Their bodies are not designed to reach breeding size in two years, and trying to hurry them along will only result in problems.

The breeding season is from Dec to May, during and following a period of night drops into the low 70's.. Gestation typically takes about six to eight months after mating . Dumeril’s produce 6 to 12 babies on average in first litters, and some litters from older females may produce 15 - 20 babies. The babies usually shed right after being born.

Breeding is promoted by cool nights.. a few months during the fall/winter with temperatures dropping to 72F – 80F will initiate the breeding season. Males and Females may be introduced on and off from December through March between digestion of meals

Other Related Species:

[Marica]

Originally Posted by forza_inter

thanks marica.....at the moment i dont have anything measuring the temp....im in the process of getting a thermometer and humidity gauge tho, so hopefully in the next day or 2. i have the 1 heat lamp at the moment, but because its a larger enclosure, i dont think shes getting the warmth she needs. thats why i was thinking of getting a heat mat as well.

im going to put the mat on the same side as the lamp (as you and a few other people suggested) and i was wondering what i should have under the light, in the cooler area and which side the water should be on?

im also looking into getting more hides and some foliage as well

Your tank does look quite tall, so I can see your concern. However, you could try a higher wattage heat emitter (I don't use lamps myself so not entirely sure if this is a proper suggestion) or try the two heat source option. Digital thermometers and hygrometers (humidity gauge) will give you a much more accurate reading than analog, which really I'd just avoid. A temp gun is also a handy reptile tool to have around no matter the size of your collection.

Make sure you have at least a hide on each the warm and cool side. I usually keep my water dish in the middle of the enclosure, however, moving it closer to the heat source can help up the humidity. The average humidity in my house is 35-40% hence why I need to use alternate methods to up the humidity during the shed process otherwise it doesn't go so well. As indicated in Moonlight's care sheet, 40-60% humidity is a good range to stay within. Basically, if your snake has difficulties shedding that's a good indicator that your humidity isn't optimum. I doubt you live anywhere where it's too low, but if it's continuously much higher than 60%, you could run the risk of a RI (Respiratory Infection).

@ BHR - Nice pair

[forza_inter]

Originally Posted by BHR

never leave a heat lamp inside of the incluser with out some kind of guard tho i have seen snakes with real bad burns to the point that they had to be pud down .Just a word of cushion .here are my dums


I should be having little ones in the next 5 or 6 weeks

thanks for the advice man....and those are gorgeous snakes! how old are they?

[forza_inter]

Originally Posted by Marica

Your tank does look quite tall, so I can see your concern. However, you could try a higher wattage heat emitter (I don't use lamps myself so not entirely sure if this is a proper suggestion) or try the two heat source option. Digital thermometers and hygrometers (humidity gauge) will give you a much more accurate reading than analog, which really I'd just avoid. A temp gun is also a handy reptile tool to have around no matter the size of your collection.

Make sure you have at least a hide on each the warm and cool side. I usually keep my water dish in the middle of the enclosure, however, moving it closer to the heat source can help up the humidity. The average humidity in my house is 35-40% hence why I need to use alternate methods to up the humidity during the shed process otherwise it doesn't go so well. As indicated in Moonlight's care sheet, 40-60% humidity is a good range to stay within. Basically, if your snake has difficulties shedding that's a good indicator that your humidity isn't optimum. I doubt you live anywhere where it's too low, but if it's continuously much higher than 60%, you could run the risk of a RI (Respiratory Infection).

@ BHR - Nice pair

excellent.....thanks very much

[marvelfreak]

Hello and welcome! How big is your Dumeril?

[BHR]

they are 4 m 5 f years old now first year breeding this Pair the male is 5 foot now the female is just over 6foot

[forza_inter]

Originally Posted by BHR

they are 4 m 5 f years old now first year breeding this Pair the male is 5 foot now the female is just over 6foot

thats cool....2 beauties man

[forza_inter]

Originally Posted by marvelfreak

Hello and welcome! How big is your Dumeril?

thanks....umm not even too sure. if i had to guess id say approx a foot and a half-ish

[TeaNinja]

BHR, your dums look like they have some nice size to them
nice snakes.

[forza_inter]

so tomorrow i'll be giving her her first meal....(a small frozen mouse that i purchased today)

from what i read, thawing it in warm water works fine....and i plan to feed her outside of her enclosure.....how long should i wait after shes done swallowing before i can put her back in her enclosure to digest?

[TeaNinja]

she will swallow it and realign her jaw. once it's passed her upper neck and into her belly and she seems done you can put her back.

i also heard it's not even necesary to thaw in water. i take my f/t out the night before and give it to them the next day and its fine.