The classic formula is the size of the cage needs to be the length + width of 2 sides equal to or greater then the total length of the snake. So, if you have a cage 40 long and 20 wide it could safely house a 60 snake. There are exceptions to the rule, such as pine or cribos that are so strong and active they need a little more space, but for the most part this formula has worked well for me. I start babies in the very small containers, then adjust for size as they grow. I have noticed if you get much larger then the formula, you get a lower feeding rate. As where at the formula size your snake eats 9 out of 10 mice, in a larger cage, you may only get 7 out of 10. If you get smaller then the formula, you tend to have problems knocking over water or filling the bowl with litter. I like the slide rack with the 11 flex watt tape running down the back, but they are a large investment. Most of mine are in sterlite boxes with locking lids sitting on plastic walmart shelves. The ones that need excess heat, get a 4 stretch of flex watt tape run along ½ of the back bottom of the box. I buy the containers at Lowes, $8/each and they shelves at walmart (of course) for $9/each. Its a low teck set up, but working with much success. I have never had to treat one for repertory infections or the like. Growth rates are good and some breeding success. Hope this helps.
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www.SCReptiles.com 2.2 Crotalus adamanteus. 2.2 Crotalus h. atricaudatus. 2.2 Crotalus h. horridus. 1.1 Agkistrodon p. piscivorus. 1.1 Agkistrodon c. contortrix. 1.1 Agkistrodon c. mokasen. 1.1 Agkistrodon c. laticinctus. 1.1 Agkistrodon c. pictigaster. Agkistrodon c. phaeogaster. 1.2 Sistrurus miliarius barbouri. 1.1 Micrurus fulvius. 0.0.1 Micrurus fulvius tenere
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