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Old 08-05-02, 06:42 PM   #16
Shane Tesser
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Lee, can you believe i started a response and my hydro went out...lol. K, good filter choice...i use dual 404's and i love them. Here is what you need. One box of Hagen peat...the granular type...and one box of Hagen peat...the hair or stranded type. One box of Fluval 404 filter socks. K, easy...on the bottom layer of your filter...where the ceramic pieces are....also install one of the filter socks with the pieces....and fill it as much as possible with either style of peat...wash lightly before installing. The next level which is the carbon level...do the same with the other peat style. Do not mix the carbon/peat or the ceramic/peat together...keep them seperate for cleaning...thus the reason for the filter socks. Now...if your going to keep live plants....wrap some of the hair style peat around the roots and shove them and the peat into the soil. Thats it. After a couple of weeks the peat will begin to break down and the water will take on a yellowish hue...thats just tanic acid releasing...it will not harm anything at this level. The plants look better in this colour anyway. And if your worried, dont be...when you look into the tank it will still appear clean...its usually when you remove the water you will see the colour...like if you look into the bucket. Maintainence. Every three months...remove the filter as you normally would. Completely clean one of the foam pieces...or replace...the other piece, just lightly wash with cold water...and dont remove everything from it...leave some. The same goes for the ceramic pieces...just lightly wash with cold water. The carbon replace completely....and replace one of the bags of peat....KEEP THE BAG....it doesnt matter which style of peat you remove....they break down at different rates....you'll know buy looking at it...you'll see what i mean don't worry. The reason, im having you keep some stuff a little dirty and some stuff completely clean is that you don't upset the bacterial beds in the filter....bacteria good....no bacteria bad. Thats it man...any questions. Let me know....This does make sense right? Let me know....i tend to ramble...sorry. Shane.
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Old 08-05-02, 10:18 PM   #17
leeD
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discus

Sounds good. Should i replace the carbon monthly like i do with my other fish tanks? I actually switched to not using carbon but more biomax cause of the cost of replacing carbon monthly. Someone instructed me to do this. Can i do this with the discus?
Also after all this when can i start adding the tetras and than the discus?
Thats my last question. thx alot uve been the best help.

Lee
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Old 08-06-02, 01:01 PM   #18
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Usual ramblings

I haven't read all the replies to this thread, so I don't know if someone may have said this already. (Hey I just woke up awhile ago, reading tons of replies just isn't my thing right now...forgive me)

I'm at my friend's right now, who has a gorgeous discus tank with four different strains of them, and he's had the blues before. There is one big problem with the blues though, which may be why they are so cheap where you are if the salesperson is aware of it.

Blue discus seem to be particularly susceptible to Hexamita infections. If they are infected, they will appear too dark in colour, have sunken eyes, or have stringy feces. Even those that appear normal, need to be quarantined and treated prior to introduction into your tank. (Well you should usually quarantine...but hey..)
Though often that still won't work....

My friend had two of these before, and both died because of this before he had researched and found out about this illness. The salesperson had not even warned him prior to purchase. And when you are buying a fish that darned expensive, I think you should be warned ...but hey, that's my beef.

Shane is right, Discus are definitely not meant as a 'beginner fish' to keep. If you've had some tank experience before, then go ahead, as long as you meet their requirements.

IF you decide to go ahead anyway, go with the pigeon blood. They are the most commonly kept and most likely the easiest *CB*. If you really want to go with the wild caught fancy specimens, the green heckles are pretty friendly, and not bad to acclimate etc....well...for discus.

If you get any wild caught specimens, you have to put them in a quarantine tank with no other fish. Put in the parasite medications, crank up the heat (reasonably) then after a week gradually bring down the temperatures to 82...if everything seems good. Then bring it to your tank.

Sinking dry pellets are what they like, since they like to peck off the ground. Beef heart should be fed only once a week, 30 minutes before a water change....and water changes MUST be done once a week as well. Why only once a week with beef heart and before the water change? Because it ups the chances of parasites...

Don't worry if they swim slightly on an angle, it's pretty common for them to do this once in awhile.

I still don't recommend them as a first fish...I've been keeping fish for ages, and I still leave them to Ross *lol* His and I just help each other out with fish. Right now we are doing a saltwater tank project together (Nano reef style *LOL*)

He's doing his water changes and water testing right now on all his tanks. Woohoo, apparently his water is bang on.....isn't he happy.

Now I better hush up and go now. I hope I didn't say anything to contradict anyone.

But I do agree with Shane, fish live longer then most people think. I have people that come up to me all the time thinking that 6 months is a good life span for a goldfish...for crying out loud.
Or even a month for their tetras seems incredible to them.

It doesn't end with fish either, even with birds...some people think two years for a budgie is normal.

Animals can live in bearable conditions for some time, but that doesn't necessarily mean they will live to full lifespan.
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Old 08-06-02, 05:22 PM   #19
Shane Tesser
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Hey, thanks for the heads up and your very correct. I know the store where Jason is purchasing these fish, and i know the strain theyre from as well. To my knowledge its a local breeder. The fish are seconds of sort. Not totally perfect lines etc. I bought some myself from there before i sold all of mine to help correct some blood line problems i was having. I bought eight of them and had no problems. I think you hit the nail on the head though. You have to be able to identify common problems before you make a serious decision and purchase...not to mention price. I belive Lee is refering to them as blues, but they to know knowledge are not cobalts or anything like that, the last group of cobalts i owned i had shipped from singapore and i can still remember that the guy in the store would only do it if i bought six. Cause there was these really, really electric blue cobalts i wanted. The problem was that i had to prepay at $300.00 each, and if some or all died too bad for me, there was no insurance. Well, three made it and the guy lucky for me had a soft heart as i was a good customer and paid for two...needless to say that it still cost over a grand. The remaining three did well and grew very large and im happy to report that i ended up selling them to a collector for the bargin basement price of $800. a piece three years later
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