Incubator ?'s - Page 2

Jeff_Favelle · 09-21-03, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Jeff, do you use a one in your set up?

Nope. Don't measure humidity. Never have, never will.

JDouglas · 10-04-03, 08:38 PM

OK I got my aquarium heater but I am still having trouble keeping the temps from fluctuating. It has a 2-3 degree swing. Its a good thing I started this project early. I am beginning to get frustrated. Here is the problem, the water heats up and the thermostat turns off the heater, the water is warmer than the air and continues to heat egg chamber. Then the air cools as the water temp goes down. I think part of the problem is that my heater is too strong at 100 watts? Plus I only have about 4 inches of water in the bottom of the cooler so it heats quickly? I also have a lot of holes in my egg chamber so the temp can change fast?

Jeff, do you have any advice. How many ventilation holes do you put in your egg chamber? How much water do I need? Should I scrap the cooler and move to something else. What exactly do you use. If your temps don't fluctuate I want to use exactly what you use. How bout you just drive to Iowa and build it for me? LOL

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Jeff_Favelle · 10-05-03, 12:45 PM

Quote:

the water is warmer than the air and continues to heat egg chamber. Then the air cools as the water temp goes down

You just answered your own question (sort of). The air shouldn't cool. Why is the air cooling? That is your problem.

As for the heater being too high of wattage, impossible. The only thing that can be bad with your heater is that its on/off range might be too large. I'm not sure if you can change that.

Yes, you need more water. Lots more. Or at least bricks or gel-packs to act as a heat sink. For sure. You need to create thermal mass. Lots of thermal mass always translates into less fluctuation.

Ventilation holes? Unless you room is 85F+, I wouldn't have ANY! My room is 70F that my incubator is in and I don't have ventilation holes in the incubator. Its not like air is getting used up very fast. Scrap the holes.

My setup is a wood box (4x4x3) lined with styrofoam on the inside and then lined with plastic to hold the water. Nice tight lid, skirt around the lid to minimize air flow and a 250W heater. Also there's a Helix if the temps get above 91F. It never comes on though.

Piece of cake.

Let me know if you need any other details my man. Its the best way to go, other than an entire room-incubator.

Tim_Cranwill · 10-05-03, 12:54 PM

Awesome thread guys! Thanks for all of the info.

I am going to go with the no-substrate method this year for sure. I'll probably start building my next incubator once my snakes go down for brumation and I'm sure I'll be referencing this thread often.

Thanks again guys!

JDouglas · 10-05-03, 06:55 PM

Thanks for the advice Jeff. My cooler doesn't have any holes in it but it may be loosing heat around the lid? The holes I was reffering to are in the egg chamber. It has a lot of holes. I have covered all but a couple and added more water to the cooler. I also got rid of the suction cups that were holding the heater and taped it directly to the bottom of the cooler, so the heater is deeper in the water. I now also heat my entire room to 80F. These changes seem to have helped, but I need more time to test it to know for sure...

If it doesn't work I will have to get a shorter egg chamber so I can add more water and bricks for thermal mass. I am afraid that if my IJCP lays a clump of eggs they will be to tall for the egg chamber?

If these ideas don't work I may even scrap the cooler and use a tall garbage can, insualte it with foam, line it with plastic, and make a lid with heavy 2 inch foam.
I will have this perfect eventually...

Thanks,

Jaremy

Jeff_Favelle · 10-05-03, 08:38 PM

Try to make the egg chamber at least 6 inches high. This allows for a tall clutch if the female "beehives". It also allows you to put a layer of styrofoam in the bottom to further minimize fluctuations.

Will · 10-07-03, 12:52 AM

Just curious by what you guys mean by "no substrate". Do you just lay the eggs just on the white plastic grate...?

Incubator is my 'winter project', so I'm looking at some ideas....

JDouglas · 10-07-03, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Just curious by what you guys mean by "no substrate". Do you just lay the eggs just on the white plastic grate...?

Yes, no substrate means you place the eggs directly on the plastic grate. I put about an inch of water in the bottom and use 3 layers of crate to keep the eggs up out of the water. Or you could put the grate on top of a moist layer of vermiculite, sterlite, etc.

JDouglas · 10-07-03, 09:33 AM

OK, I finally got my incubator temps to hold at a constant temp with no fluctuations at all!!!! I think the aqurium heater I purchased was defective because it didn't hold water temp well at all.

I am now using an eight inch strip of 3 inch flexwatt with an ESU thermostat. I placed the thermostat probe directly on the heat tape. This makes the thermostat turn on and off every few minutes. My egg chamber has an inch of water in the bottom and only a few holes on the sides for circulation. My humidity is high enough to form droplets of water on the clear lid and sides of the egg chamber. I think I have it perfect now!!

I am going to start a new thread with step by step instructions of how I built it.

Jeff Favelle, thanks for all your help.

Jeff_Favelle · 10-07-03, 11:08 AM

EXCELLENT. But the real test comes 55-60 days after putting eggs in there. Hatch or no hatch is the only test that matters.

JDouglas · 10-07-03, 05:19 PM

Your right about that Jeff, first I have to get the IJCP's to breed, then incubate and hope for the best.
I am getting a little ahead of myself, but at least I am will be ready when the time comes (if it comes). All I will have to do is plug in the incubator right before she lays and it will be ready to go!

Thanks again!