Advice to get new ball python to eat? - Page 2

MetalBurrito · 03-12-15, 10:19 PM

It isn't that I am not taking anyone's advice, but I have explained the same things a few times ie the temperatures and tank set up, not to mention I have checkedand double checked the husbandry, which is why I am frustrated that this is still being brought up. Also, You are the 3rd person who has mentioned me guessing the temps of the BREEDERS home (not my tank) and I have explained that a few times as well. I have double and triple checked the temperatures and humidity at different times of the day since I got her. The tank right now is at 88 on the warm side, 82 on the cool side, and the spot with the heating pad is 92. Sooo yeeah, Im not guessing these temperatures, I'm reading them off the TWO thermometers in the tank. The only thing I don't have that any of you has said anything about is a second hide, and I am explaining that I don't believe that to be the issue since her previous owner had no issues feeding, and did not have anything in her enclosure whatsoever except a water bowl. Other rgan that, based on what YOU GUYS have said, there is nothing wrong as far as husbandry goes. And I did take the advice on consistency, which is why I haven't tried any other methods, except for one person saying that I should try setting the mouse on the lid so she smells it and gets hungry, which I tried the last time. (And she actually did show more interest, but in the end still refused to eat) i have not tried cleaning her tank before feeding because she is new, and I want her to be settled in, and I feel like that would stress her out. And I'm going to try feeding her live, but I had already bought frozen, so I have tried that a few times, yes. I am going to try live this next time now that I have no more frozen.

Chris72 · 03-13-15, 09:52 AM

Could you post a few pictures of the tank please?

How often do you handle your animal?

stevo-d · 03-13-15, 03:56 PM

I just tried to feed my 5 year old royal who hasn't eaten since October 30th he weighed 1381grams and weighed him two days ago and weighed in at 1290grams. He always does it in winter breeding season as well and I'm not worried at all he's lost a wee bit weight and is still healthy and active. I just tried to intice him with a rat dipped in tuna brine he just had a sniff and went back in hiding other things I've tried when he was young was put him and the rat in a pillow case and left him for 3 hours and when I came back he had ate it you could try braining the rat crack its skull a little so a little bit of its brain can be seen also dip it in chicken broth or try mice and rats different colours try feeding at night or first thing in the morning. You could also try multimamates or gerbils but once they taste them its hard to get them back to rats but two weeks is not long at all let her settle in and try feeding every 5 to 7 days but don't worry they eat when there ready my boa has never refused a meal I've had snakes for 20 years garters corns bullsnakes pythons and boas but royals are the most finky eaters hope this helps

stevo-d · 03-13-15, 04:01 PM

Try braining the rat feed at night morning put the snake and rat in a pillow case and leave for a couple of hours try mice rats different colours multimamates gerbils or dip the rat in tuna brine or chicken broth

**Aaron_S** · 03-14-15, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MetalBurrito

It isn't that I am not taking anyone's advice, but I have explained the same things a few times ie the temperatures and tank set up, not to mention I have checkedand double checked the husbandry, which is why I am frustrated that this is still being brought up. Also, You are the 3rd person who has mentioned me guessing the temps of the BREEDERS home (not my tank) and I have explained that a few times as well. I have double and triple checked the temperatures and humidity at different times of the day since I got her. The tank right now is at 88 on the warm side, 82 on the cool side, and the spot with the heating pad is 92. Sooo yeeah, Im not guessing these temperatures, I'm reading them off the TWO thermometers in the tank. The only thing I don't have that any of you has said anything about is a second hide, and I am explaining that I don't believe that to be the issue since her previous owner had no issues feeding, and did not have anything in her enclosure whatsoever except a water bowl. Other rgan that, based on what YOU GUYS have said, there is nothing wrong as far as husbandry goes. And I did take the advice on consistency, which is why I haven't tried any other methods, except for one person saying that I should try setting the mouse on the lid so she smells it and gets hungry, which I tried the last time. (And she actually did show more interest, but in the end still refused to eat) i have not tried cleaning her tank before feeding because she is new, and I want her to be settled in, and I feel like that would stress her out. And I'm going to try feeding her live, but I had already bought frozen, so I have tried that a few times, yes. I am going to try live this next time now that I have no more frozen.

You can't compare the breeders set up with your tank.

I use bins for all of my babies. I never use hides however if I sell one to someone with a tank I suggest the two hides. Don't disregard proper advice.

**millertime89** · 03-16-15, 01:00 PM

Try putting her in a different cage completely. (Get a tub or another tank for her.) There was an article about a year or so ago that a bigger breeder put out where they explained that sometimes just switching the cage can make the difference. They hypothesized that it has something to do with scent. I'll see if I can find it. I do agree though that a second hide is worth a try.

**millertime89** · 03-16-15, 01:05 PM

Boom.
The Psychology of Problem Feeders – Get your Ball Python eating again | The Ball Street Journal

Chris72 · 03-18-15, 07:53 PM

Burrito.....

There are allot of guy here with allot of animals, and allot of knowledge who are trying to help.

Anyhow, if you haven't tried this:
> thaw the rodent on a piece of white paper towel for aa couple of hours before you it's it in the hit water. When you put the rat in the hot water, toss the stinky paper towel in tank within 6 inches of your snake and walk away for a few minutes. Hopefully this might get your snake hunting around a little. When the rat is hot enough, offer it but just hold it there. (You wiggle it...try not shaking it)

That's gotten problem feeders going when we've had issues in the past.

Good luck.

C&H