My first monitor.. Varanus tristis orientalis (freckled monitor) - Page 2

SnakeyJay · 05-03-14, 09:56 AM

I've got a video of the behaviour but my phone won't let me post it here.

SnakeyJay · 05-03-14, 01:39 PM

I've just added even more cork bark n arranged it for more floor coverage... He seems to have settled down now and resumed hiding lol.

SnakeyJay · 05-04-14, 04:32 AM

So do you offer food loose in the viv or in a bowl ? He seems to walk past Dubia and mealies in a bowl but will take mealies off tweezers.

murrindindi · 05-04-14, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snakey-Jay

So do you offer food loose in the viv or in a bowl ? He seems to walk past Dubia and mealies in a bowl but will take mealies off tweezers.

Hi, you can leave food in a dish (not so much the more mobile insects) or allow them to free roam in the enclosure (roaches, locusts, but not crickets).
You might also offer cut up fuzzy mice now and again, much easier to chop up while still frozen, then obviously defrost before feeding (you`d be surprised how many ask if they can be fed still frozen)??

smy_749 · 05-04-14, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by murrindindi

Hi, you can leave food in a dish (not so much the more mobile insects) or allow them to free roam in the enclosure (roaches, locusts, but not crickets).
You might also offer cut up fuzzy mice now and again, much easier to chop up while still frozen, then obviously defrost before feeding (you`d be surprised how many ask if they can be fed still frozen)??

This is what I do normally, after tong feeding I leave the rest in the enclosure, cover it with a blanket and they usually finish the rest in privacy. No need to cover the enclosure with a blanket, but mine are in a high traffic area and still a bit skittish so by doing this they are generally out more (as far as I can tell by peaking under the blanket).

Dubia free roaming in the enclosure will generally bury themselves and wedge under everything, they are not a very 'hunt worthy' species.

Keep the bowl, be persistent with tong feeding, etc. etc.

You won't know what works until you've tried them all, trial and error with these little varanids to find what they prefer.

SnakeyJay · 05-04-14, 12:56 PM

Thanks for the replies... Why can't you put crickets in there? I've just gone and picked up crickets and locust to try him on.

He's very active and fast but I'm worried if all he will eat off tweezers is mealworms and wax worms that's it'll stunt him lmao..

On a different note, is it normal for them to try to escape through the glass often... Every now n then he will spend 5 mins scratching at the glass.. Not sure if it's normal escapism or..

He basks and explores normally, chills then returns to attempted escape lmao.

smy_749 · 05-04-14, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snakey-Jay

Thanks for the replies... Why can't you put crickets in there? I've just gone and picked up crickets and locust to try him on.

He's very active and fast but I'm worried if all he will eat off tweezers is mealworms and wax worms that's it'll stunt him lmao..

On a different note, is it normal for them to try to escape through the glass often... Every now n then he will spend 5 mins scratching at the glass.. Not sure if it's normal escapism or..

He basks and explores normally, chills then returns to attempted escape lmao.

I would still add more cover, and more obstacles off of the ground for him to climb AND hide in. The terrarium should be very full. I would also replace the red bulb with a few halogen bulbs with different basking areas. 2 or 3 basking sites at different elevations and or different wattages. You can put crickets in the viv, but they have a tendency to annoy critters and they will surely breed in your substrate, resulting in thousands upon thousands of pinheads. Don't make mealworms a staple, they should be kept to a minimum IMO. Wax worms as well. Crickets, roaches, maybe some super worms, chopped fuzzies, feeder lizards if you can get them would be great, and so on.

SnakeyJay · 05-04-14, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smy_749

I would still add more cover, and more obstacles off of the ground for him to climb AND hide in. The terrarium should be very full. I would also replace the red bulb with a few halogen bulbs with different basking areas. 2 or 3 basking sites at different elevations and or different wattages. You can put crickets in the viv, but they have a tendency to annoy critters and they will surely breed in your substrate, resulting in thousands upon thousands of pinheads. Don't make mealworms a staple, they should be kept to a minimum IMO. Wax worms as well. Crickets, roaches, maybe some super worms, chopped fuzzies, feeder lizards if you can get them would be great, and so on.

Thanks, the multiple basking sites can and will be added to the new vivarium once built.. There's not much room in this for multiple spots. As for the halogen bulbs, why are they better? Not saying your wrong, but I like to know why I'm doing things

I already have put in more cover , I'll get a pic in the morning if you wish.

If I have to tweezer feed him for now, how much do I feed? Till he stops accepting food or?

Thanks and the info is appreciated.

smy_749 · 05-04-14, 01:50 PM

From the picture it looks like the red bulb is somewhat of a flood light, and you have supplemental lighting which is good. I'm not 100% sure but I believe the red is somewhat blinding (its not invisible light for reptiles as advertised on 'night bulbs') and impairs vision. Maybe murrindindi can comment on this further.

The multiple spots are not absolutely necessary, however different spots with different temperatures gives him more to choose from. Also, a way for him to bask without being seen or exposed out in the open would be greatly appreciated I'm sure.

As far as feeding goes, feed them until they lose interest in food every time.

murrindindi · 05-04-14, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snakey-Jay

Thanks, the multiple basking sites can and will be added to the new vivarium once built.. There's not much room in this for multiple spots. As for the halogen bulbs, why are they better? Not saying your wrong, but I like to know why I'm doing things

I already have put in more cover , I'll get a pic in the morning if you wish.

If I have to tweezer feed him for now, how much do I feed? Till he stops accepting food or?

Thanks and the info is appreciated.

Hi, I`m not sure you need more than one basking site, the more heat bulbs you have the more they will dry out the air, plus you only have the one animal.
Halogen bulbs (flood, not spot) are very efficient, they can also be dimmed which makes adjusting the surface temp easier.
I use this brand, I usually pay around £5 each, they can last up to 3,000 hours (if you`re interested, try eBay). You must use a ceramic bulb fixture.
You should feed as much as the monitor will eat (daily), at this time their metabolism is at it`s highest.

Edit: The infrared bulbs are fine, I use them at night, mainly during the colder weather, and contrary to what some people say, I`ve never noticed them disturbing my monitors sleep (so many myths )!

SnakeyJay · 05-04-14, 02:16 PM

He has a cork bark that's heated next to the basking spot to hide under, and I may try the halogens at some point. I take it the people who use halogen bulbs switch to ceramics for heat at night then?

murrindindi · 05-04-14, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snakey-Jay

He has a cork bark that's heated next to the basking spot to hide under, and I may try the halogens at some point. I take it the people who use halogen bulbs switch to ceramics for heat at night then?

You can use either a CHE or an infrared during the night if you need supplementary heating. I personally wouldn`t let the lowest ambient go below 24c (75f).
You can even leave the heat/lights on 24/7, providing of course there are darker/cooler areas to retreat to.

SnakeyJay · 05-04-14, 02:25 PM

Is that 24c cold end or general ambient temp.

How much of a temp drop do you allow at night? And do you still supply a basking/hot spot during the night.

murrindindi · 05-04-14, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snakey-Jay

Is that 24c cold end or general ambient temp.

How much of a temp drop do you allow at night? And do you still supply a basking/hot spot during the night.

24c is the coldest spot anywhere in the enclosure (including under the substrate) both day and night (this is a tropical species).
If you want to use 24/7 heat/light then yes, there will always be a basking site at the "daytime" surface temp.

Edit: To make things easier, you basically need to know two temps; the lowest ambient @ approx 24c, then the surface temp at the basking site @ between approx 50 to 60c (120 to 140f).

smy_749 · 05-04-14, 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snakey-Jay

Is that 24c cold end or general ambient temp.

How much of a temp drop do you allow at night? And do you still supply a basking/hot spot during the night.

24 c is the coldest part of my enclosures during the day. At night I let it drop to 21 ish with no issues. I don't provide 24/7 heat, its lights out, heat off at night for me. Both ways work fine Imo.