New Dumeril's - Page 2

Dan84 · 03-06-16, 06:29 AM

Good looking dumerils. It's hard to imagine that mine was that small just a short time ago.

My guess is that she is closer to 14 - 16 months. My dumerils was about 750g and 38" at 14 months while eating small/medium rats. She is currently 26 months, 1750g, 55" and eating large rats.

Snakesitter · 03-08-16, 03:20 PM

Very nice pickup! Did you name her yet?

toddnbecka · 03-09-16, 12:44 AM

Becka named her Beauty, she's the one who really wanted to bring her home. So far she's ignored f/t adult mice and rat pups. I'm guessing she's accustomed to live prey. My little IJ carpet shows more interest in f/t (mice) than the Dumeril's, but still won't take them in the end. I can see it's going to be fun switching them both to f/t rats. Any tips on that transition process would be much appreciated.

Snakesitter · 03-10-16, 03:06 PM

Find out from the breeder what the snake was eating before -- prey type, size, preparation method, feeding time, etc. The more of these you can "match," even with f/t food, the better your chance of success. You may have to go through a "just-killed" step in between.

FWK · 03-10-16, 04:46 PM

Dumeril's Boas are nocturnal, you'll get the best results offering food after dark. My Dumeril's will eat during the day, but is typically hesitant. After dark I have to be careful opening his enclosure so he doesn't grab my hand. Have a light on in the hall or next room, just enough light so you can see the snake and it can see the prey item. How you arrange the enclosure can effect the feeding response as well. Providing overhead clutter, such as artificial plants, that the snake can hang out under with a clear "ambush zone" in the middle has proven effective in provoking a strong feeding response from my Dumeril's. To much clutter without a clearing, or not enough clutter seem to really dampen his response. Wiggle the prey item around in the clear area until the snake grabs it. The strike is hard, but the coil slow. More often than not mine wont constrict at all, but just pin the prey item against the floor. He also takes forever to eat, by far the slowest eater I have. Dumeril's Boas do not have heat pits, the temperature of the prey item is a non-factor.

toddnbecka · 03-11-16, 01:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snakesitter

Find out from the breeder what the snake was eating before -- prey type, size, preparation method, feeding time, etc. The more of these you can "match," even with f/t food, the better your chance of success. You may have to go through a "just-killed" step in between.

I got her from the Outback Reptiles table at the Hamburg show. They said she had been taken in trade that day, so I doubt they'd have any info on her diet.

I tried leaving the f/t ovenight, put in front of her hide right before turning off the lights. She's been soaking in the water bowl a bit.

Snakesitter · 03-14-16, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toddnbecka

I got her from the Outback Reptiles table at the Hamburg show. They said she had been taken in trade that day, so I doubt they'd have any info on her diet.

That makes it tough. I'm surprised they did not ask the seller though. I would always want to know if an animal I'm taking is feeding, and on what.

Albert Clark · 03-09-16, 06:27 AM

Hey TnB, the key to transitioning is to be vigilant and persistent. With older animals it may take time but along with persistence comes the fact that you may have to watch the animal miss meals and continue to refuse to feed. In that case, you need to be prepared to monitor weight loss monthly. One key to transitioning is getting a adequate heat signature on the prey item and presenting it in a more natural way such as movement of the item along the enclosure floor and doing so by holding it by the scruff of the neck or at the mid body. Be prepared to be tried bc in some cases a animal may never transition to a different prey item. What really is important is that the animal is feeding as opposed to what he's feeding on. Good luck. So, heat signature and presentation are two main keys to transitioning. The younger the animal the more chance of being successful. Btw, that's a gorgeous reptile you have there.

Arachnaeoccult · 03-10-16, 04:52 PM

Look at the snoot on that!

Albert Clark · 03-11-16, 08:00 AM

Dumerils boas may not have heat pits, but they are ambush predators who lie in wait for extended periods of time for prey. According to the Chicago Zoo, frozen thawed offerings should be " appropriately defrosted". I think that means having a normal heat signature of a rodent which is 100f.(normal physiologic temperature). Making the heat signature a factor.

FWK · 03-11-16, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Albert Clark

Dumerils boas may not have heat pits, but they are ambush predators who lie in wait for extended periods of time for prey. According to the Chicago Zoo, frozen thawed offerings should be " appropriately defrosted". I think that means having a normal heat signature of a rodent which is 100f.(normal physiologic temperature). Making the heat signature a factor.

Frozen/thawed prey should always be appropriately defrosted, regardless of the species being fed. Dumeril's Boas cannot detect a heat signature, it doesn't matter if the prey item is 75 degrees fahrenheit or 110. If I'm offering food to a Ball Python who is slow to react, reheating the the rodent by dipping it back into the warm water and offering it again can trigger a strike. When feeding an animal that cannot detect a heat signature I just keep wiggling the prey item around until the snake takes it, it is pointless to reheat it.

Snakesitter · 03-14-16, 02:32 PM

Quote:

appropriately defrosted

LOL. Images of new keepers trying to offer ratsicles... ;-)

dannybgoode · 03-11-16, 10:38 AM

If I could have another snake I'd go out tomorrow and buy a Dumerils. Lovely lovely snake. Congratulations...

Albert Clark · 03-11-16, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannybgoode

If I could have another snake I'd go out tomorrow and buy a Dumerils. Lovely lovely snake. Congratulations...

They really are a beautiful animal. When I get more space I will definitely add them to my collection.

Arachnaeoccult · 03-11-16, 10:52 AM

in my view I like variety, I need to have the pretty colorful little ones, the big reptilian monsters and gentle giants, and a novelty specimen here and there. Boas are on my go-to list of gentle giants and the Dumerile's appeal to my somewhat lovecraftian obsession with non-mammals but also got a puppy dog face.