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01-12-16, 09:08 PM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Dec-2015
Posts: 8
Country:
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Re: Thermostat probe location
Perhaps this is happening because my boa is in a glass cage?
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01-13-16, 01:55 AM
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#17
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Member
Join Date: Dec-2015
Posts: 2,203
Country:
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Re: Thermostat probe location
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsnakegirl785
Also, even the weight of the snake could throw the temps way off. I have the thermostat probes to my CHE and RHP inside my BCI's enclosure because that's really the only place to put them, and if he curls up against the probe, it goes from reading 90F to 74F. I then have to move the bugger off his probe and after a few minutes it reads the proper temps.
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Don't put the stat probe at substrate level, particularly with a che. As you've already identified when the snake covers it then the stat thinks the temp has dropped and will increase power to the che. Che's kick out some serious heat and if your snake does this when you're not around to move it it could cause harm. I've measured my 150W at 80% power to be kicking out 350c + (662f!! ![EEK!](http://www.ssnakess.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif) ). Your snake covers the probe and your che thinks it's needing to play catch up could cause significant issues.
Fix the probe to the back of the viv about 1/3 down the length and about 6-8" from the substrate. Keep the area either side and in front free of decor etc. This way the probe is in little danger of being covered.
Then use a thermometer with a probe at the hot spot or a temperature gun to set the stat level. It takes a bit of faffing around, my stat is set at c. 26c for hot spot temp of 32c for example and I monitor the hot spot with a thermometer price at the hot spot permanently and each day with a temperature gun also but the faffing is worth it as it is much safer.
Doing it this way also ensures the cool side never exceeds the temperature as per where the probe is so I am confident of a good thermal gradient. I know that the warm side is at least 26c, the hot spot 32c and the cool side not more than 26c 1/3 the way down the viv and cooler beyond that.
For completeness I have another probe at the cool end measuring temperature and humidity so I know my cool side during the day is 23c dropping to just below 21c at night.
UTH's are not really suitable for large snakes. They do not warm the whole snake - too much muscle mass and they generally just heat what is in contact with them and not the ambient air temp. This means the lower and outer 1/3 of say a boas muscle is heated and not the rest. This can cause digestive problems as well as localised overheating of the snake.
RHP's and CHE'S are much more suitable but with the probe etc setup as per the above. Never have the probe where the snake or decor etc could cover it.
__________________
0.1 B imperator, 1.0 M spilota harrisoni, 1.0 C hortulanus, 2.1 P reticulatus (Madu locality), 1.1 S amethystine, 1.1 L olivaceous, 1.0 C angulifer, 1.0 Z persicus, 0.1 P regius, 0.1 N natrix, 0.1 E climacophora, 1.0 P obsoletus, 0.1 L geluta nigrtia, 1.0 P catenifer sayi, 1.0 T lepidus
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01-13-16, 07:55 AM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Aug-2011
Location: Waynesville
Age: 29
Posts: 3,879
Country:
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Re: Thermostat probe location
Quote:
Originally Posted by dannybgoode
Don't put the stat probe at substrate level, particularly with a che. As you've already identified when the snake covers it then the stat thinks the temp has dropped and will increase power to the che. Che's kick out some serious heat and if your snake does this when you're not around to move it it could cause harm. I've measured my 150W at 80% power to be kicking out 350c + (662f!! ![EEK!](http://www.ssnakess.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif) ). Your snake covers the probe and your che thinks it's needing to play catch up could cause significant issues.
Fix the probe to the back of the viv about 1/3 down the length and about 6-8" from the substrate. Keep the area either side and in front free of decor etc. This way the probe is in little danger of being covered.
Then use a thermometer with a probe at the hot spot or a temperature gun to set the stat level. It takes a bit of faffing around, my stat is set at c. 26c for hot spot temp of 32c for example and I monitor the hot spot with a thermometer price at the hot spot permanently and each day with a temperature gun also but the faffing is worth it as it is much safer.
Doing it this way also ensures the cool side never exceeds the temperature as per where the probe is so I am confident of a good thermal gradient. I know that the warm side is at least 26c, the hot spot 32c and the cool side not more than 26c 1/3 the way down the viv and cooler beyond that.
For completeness I have another probe at the cool end measuring temperature and humidity so I know my cool side during the day is 23c dropping to just below 21c at night.
UTH's are not really suitable for large snakes. They do not warm the whole snake - too much muscle mass and they generally just heat what is in contact with them and not the ambient air temp. This means the lower and outer 1/3 of say a boas muscle is heated and not the rest. This can cause digestive problems as well as localised overheating of the snake.
RHP's and CHE'S are much more suitable but with the probe etc setup as per the above. Never have the probe where the snake or decor etc could cover it.
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It isn't at substrate level, if it was touching the substrate it would throw off the temperature readings.. He happens to be 6" tall when he coils up and his hides are at least 7" tall. I can't put the probes any higher than where they are or risk not being able to properly heat the enclosure because of the sheer height of the enclosure and not having the technical know-how on how to install shelves that will hold a 9-10 lb snake.
I've solved this by moving his favorite hides off to the side of the probes, and he stays off them now. He also nowadays almost never goes into his hides so it isn't a problem.
The enclosure is 3' tall so even when this happens it doesn't get above 85F on the cool end or 90F on the hot end. The heating elements cannot get the enclosure above 80F without me heating the room to 80F in winter no matter how hard they work, so I think he's safe.
__________________
3.3 BI Cloud, sunglow Nymeria, ghost Tirel, anery motley Crona, ghost Howl, jungle Dominika - 0.1 retic Riverrun - RIP (Guin, Morzan, Sanji, and Homura - BRBs, Bud - bp, Draco and Demigod - garters)
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01-13-16, 04:05 PM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Dec-2015
Posts: 8
Country:
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Re: Thermostat probe location
Perhaps this is due to my boa being in a glass cage? Glass cages don't hold temps or humidity well.
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01-14-16, 07:45 PM
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#20
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Member
Join Date: Aug-2011
Location: Waynesville
Age: 29
Posts: 3,879
Country:
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Re: Thermostat probe location
Quote:
Originally Posted by EddieBalboa
Perhaps this is due to my boa being in a glass cage? Glass cages don't hold temps or humidity well.
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I doubt that's reason your temps are being thrown off. If it was the heat escaping, you would still expect your thermostat readings to be higher than the temp gun readings. Unless someone else has a better idea, I'm thinking one of them is faulty. As long as you've got the settings zeroed in and you're monitoring it, it shouldn't pose that much of a problem. But if things get really hairy, try buying a replacement probe and if that doesn't work, get a new temp gun. If nothing else, it will get rid of those as possibilities.
__________________
3.3 BI Cloud, sunglow Nymeria, ghost Tirel, anery motley Crona, ghost Howl, jungle Dominika - 0.1 retic Riverrun - RIP (Guin, Morzan, Sanji, and Homura - BRBs, Bud - bp, Draco and Demigod - garters)
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01-14-16, 11:47 PM
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#21
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Member
Join Date: Aug-2015
Posts: 63
Country:
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Re: Thermostat probe location
I have a heat panel and just let the probe sit on the floor. Sure she climbs over it and to drops but my thermostat always shows the temps plus I double check a lot
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