Am I On The Right Track?

Brett943 · 12-12-13, 12:36 AM

I am currently building a 36"x18"x18" melamine enclosure for a Corn, King, Milk or possibly Ball Python. It has a 3" substrate dam and an acrylic front/door.

I have read that marine sealant/silicone would be good for the seams/joints inside. Is this a good choice?

For the exposed wood I was going to spray with coats of varathane to seal the melamine from getting moisture in it. Is this alright?

I am going with belly heat either with an UTH or heat tape (never used before). Which would you recommend? Thermostat will of course be used.
My plan was to build a raised platform at 1 end with heat on the bottom of the enclosure with a small gap and pegboard which the snake would essentially rest on so the heat will rise up through the holes. I will run the wiring out the gap where the snake has no access.

For the 1/4" acrylic front should I screw the hinges to it or use and adhesive?

Any advice on things to change?

First pic is looking in from front before substrate dam and acrylic. 2nd pic is looking down on the front with acrylic front mocked up but not attached.

Thanks,
Brett

ilovemysnake · 12-12-13, 01:00 AM

i have no idea, but it looks good! i love the custom made ones. beautiful!

Lankyrob · 12-12-13, 03:48 AM

Personally, that is too small for a ball, ok for a corn tho.

Nice looking cage

KORBIN5895 · 12-12-13, 05:39 AM

Everything looks great so far. I would screw or pop rivet the acrylic on. I would also go with a radiant heat panel for a heat source.

kwhitlock · 12-12-13, 06:21 AM

Dam! Looking good!

kelzerman · 12-12-13, 07:31 AM

I would seal those Raw edges. The minute water hits those edges they will swell like a sponge. If you search fastcap on google go to there site and they have what you call peel and stick edgebanding. It is 15/16" wide so it will cover 3/4" melamine well. You can use spray adhesive on the edges to give it a better adhesion. The trick with the spray adhesive is to let it dry before sticking. It creates a better bond. After you apply the banding you will have an overhang along the edges. Take a sharpened putty knife or use a razor to trim.

Looking good though!!!

Brett943 · 12-12-13, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lankyrob

Personally, that is too small for a ball, ok for a corn tho.

Nice looking cage

Thank you for the insight, I have a corn that will most likely go in there once she grows.

Brett943 · 12-12-13, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KORBIN5895

Everything looks great so far. I would screw or pop rivet the acrylic on. I would also go with a radiant heat panel for a heat source.

Thank you, I was thinking screws for the acrylic as well. What are others take on a radiant heat panel for Corn/King/Milk snakes if there warm hide will be on the hot side? Would they get any belly heat that way or would the outside of the hide just get warm?

Brett943 · 12-12-13, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kelzerman

I would seal those Raw edges. The minute water hits those edges they will swell like a sponge. If you search fastcap on google go to there site and they have what you call peel and stick edgebanding. It is 15/16" wide so it will cover 3/4" melamine well. You can use spray adhesive on the edges to give it a better adhesion. The trick with the spray adhesive is to let it dry before sticking. It creates a better bond. After you apply the banding you will have an overhang along the edges. Take a sharpened putty knife or use a razor to trim.

Looking good though!!!

Thank you very much. This sounds like it will make it look better and seal well. I will probably still spray varathane on it first just to be extra cautious.

Thanks for the advice and comments everyone, keeo the ideas rolling!

kelzerman · 12-12-13, 08:37 AM

Screws don't take well to acrylic. I would pre-drill very carefully with a drill bit made for acrylic. Then go with rivets. Or even a small nut and bolt. The acrylic doesn't really bite the threads and has a tendency to crack.

Brett943 · 12-12-13, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kelzerman

Screws don't take well to acrylic. I would pre-drill very carefully with a drill bit made for acrylic. Then go with rivets. Or even a small nut and bolt. The acrylic doesn't really bite the threads and has a tendency to crack.

Oh ok thanks. I would hate to mess it up as it wasn't cheap!

kelzerman · 12-12-13, 09:37 AM

Yes acrylic is not cheap! I learned my lesson the hard way.

KORBIN5895 · 12-12-13, 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kelzerman

Screws don't take well to acrylic. I would pre-drill very carefully with a drill bit made for acrylic. Then go with rivets. Or even a small nut and bolt. The acrylic doesn't really bite the threads and has a tendency to crack.

Thanks for clarifying for me. I did mean nut and bolt.... at least in my head I did.

kelzerman · 12-12-13, 12:12 PM

I believe you.

I mean don't get me wrong you can drill and tap acrylic. Or drill and countersink and use a brass insert, but that is for thicker acrylic. I have done it many times. To be honest it is not worth it for this purpose. On a hinge that will be opened and closed constantly you will want something that will hold up to abuse.

Oh hey I forgot to mention when drilling the acrylic with a new bit you can grind down the first edge a little to keep it from catching and cracking the acrylic. Also, I would add a little candle wax to the bit. And once you start to drill do not stop. Keep that bit moving. Use a wooden backer (block) so you don't blow the back out.

Just some advice I learned from my horrendous mistakes made in the past.

Brett943 · 12-12-13, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kelzerman

I believe you.

I mean don't get me wrong you can drill and tap acrylic. Or drill and countersink and use a brass insert, but that is for thicker acrylic. I have done it many times. To be honest it is not worth it for this purpose. On a hinge that will be opened and closed constantly you will want something that will hold up to abuse.

Oh hey I forgot to mention when drilling the acrylic with a new bit you can grind down the first edge a little to keep it from catching and cracking the acrylic. Also, I would add a little candle wax to the bit. And once you start to drill do not stop. Keep that bit moving. Use a wooden backer (block) so you don't blow the back out.

Just some advice I learned from my horrendous mistakes made in the past.

Really appreciate this advice! I bought the edging material and glue, hit the exposed wood with 8 light coats of varathane and siliconed the inside seams/joints and am waiting for it to dry.

Also picked up a 12" LED light to mount inside for display purposes and will be using left over acrylic for my raised heating platform instead of pegboard.