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02-19-03, 09:19 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Feb-2003
Location: ohio
Posts: 17
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Newbie needs help
I got my first snake about two weeks ago,a female burmese,I bought her from a pet shop,she was sold by a local breeder,she is docile,active and an excellent feeder,the person who owned her took exellent care of her,the only mistake he made(I think)is she has only been fed live food,is there a way to get her on p/k or since she has been fed live will she not accept it?I've been reading the posts,and figured this probly wasnt the best choice for a first snake,but whats done is done and I plan on keeping her,so any help would be welcome.By the way whats the down side to feeding live?Not bieng a smart### just dont know. Thanks in advance for any help.
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02-19-03, 09:29 AM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Oct-2002
Location: Montreal
Age: 50
Posts: 1,455
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Hello Bill and welcome to the group
With such a large species of snake, I would definitely want to switch it over to prekilled food. I don't have any personal experience with burms but I've converted two ball pythons from live prey to prekilled and it wasn't too hard.
First, where do you feed your burm? If in it's enclosure, I would personally recommend you feed in a separate environment (rubbermaid, bathtub).
Second, how many food items do you offer your burm? I find it easier to switch them if they eat 2 food items in a meal. For the switch anyways, if possible to find 2 smaller food items instead.
At feeding time, offer the first live like usual. Then stun the next food item (in a pillowcase whacked against the side of a hard surface, I like the ceramic of the toilet bowl). Give a good whack but if possible, try not too kill it, just stun it. It'll still have some movement but will be harmless to the snake.
Next feeding time, offer the first food item stunned and if it goes down well, whack the second food item hard enough till it's dead. Then dangle and tease your snake with it.
Your snake might take to prekilled prey very easily, or it could take a few feedings for it to get used to eating dead prey. If you see difficulty in accepting totally dead prey, stick to stunned.
My pythons now take prekilled no problem, I am not starting the transition to frozen/thawed. I hope it'll go well
Good luck
__________________
Keeper of 5 snakes, leopard geckos, 1 green iguana, 20+ tarantulas, 2 dogs & a bunch of rats!
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02-19-03, 09:35 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Jan-2003
Posts: 18
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Let's just say there is no upside to feeding live. The downside is live prey can severely damage or kill your snake.
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02-19-03, 09:35 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Feb-2003
Location: ohio
Posts: 17
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Thanks for the info,she eats 1 small rat and 1 mouse per feeding,that idea will work perfect ill try it next time i feed .
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02-19-03, 11:51 AM
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#6
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Former Moderator no longer active
Join Date: Feb-2002
Location: Christchurch
Posts: 10,251
Country:
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Welcome to the site! How old is your new snake?
Quote:
Originally posted by Pixie
First, where do you feed your burm? If in it's enclosure, I would personally recommend you feed in a separate environment (rubbermaid, bathtub).
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I personally disagree with the use of routine feeding in a separate enclosure, but that's my personal preference, some people feel more comfortable doing so. But I must say that I really disagree with getting the large species in the habit of being removed. It is not a good idea (when the snake gets lerger) to be handling it at all during feeding time, this is not only stressful and awkward for the animal, but extremely dangerous for the keeper. Handling a large python while their is any remaining feeding response, or any lingering smell of prey in the air or on the snake is dangerous.
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02-19-03, 12:10 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Jul-2002
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Age: 48
Posts: 1,850
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Welcome
I have to agree with Linds on this one. There may be some good points to feeding in a seperate enclosure but you do not want to be moving a 14 foot burm around when it's feeding time. As long as you interact with the snake enough so that it does not associate your presence with food.
__________________
If there is anything the nonconformist hates worse than a conformist, it's another nonconformist who doesn't conform to the prevailing standard of nonconformity.
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02-19-03, 12:23 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Aug-2002
Location: Malta
Age: 42
Posts: 997
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Hello and welcome to the forums!
I agree with both Linds and Mike and would not try an put a big burm in another enclosure when feeding it!
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Josef
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02-19-03, 12:40 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Jul-2002
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,355
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Welcome,
I agree with Linds, Mike and Josef, I would not try moving a burm to a separate enclosure for feeding.
What you could do is to have a separate feeding door in your burm's cage, and only offer food through that door.
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02-19-03, 12:43 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Oct-2002
Location: Netherlands
Age: 45
Posts: 838
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Well i cant help you with the snake help, but..............................welcome to SsnakesS
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0.2 Bearded Dragons: Bep & Truus
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02-19-03, 01:29 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Feb-2003
Location: ohio
Posts: 17
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Thanks, that article lisa linked to is all I need to see,poor snake.The info on moving(or not moving)was helpful also,my burm is 39"long,im not sure how old she is,I'll post pics as soon as I can,thanks again everyone,your advice was helpful
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02-19-03, 01:55 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Oct-2002
Location: Montreal
Age: 50
Posts: 1,455
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I can totally see why feeding a large snake out of it's enclosure would not be good for the keeper in the long run. I can just try to imagine removing a hungry 15' burm out of it's cage... Yikes!!! And then trying to put in back in after... Double Yikes!!!
I guess it might be okay to do so for a young burm to do the transition, but not for very long. Just a few meals till the switch is done. But then again, if feeding in the enclosure is perfectly fine then by all means do so!
Obviously I don't deal with giant snakes! Sorry for the goof!
Pixie
__________________
Keeper of 5 snakes, leopard geckos, 1 green iguana, 20+ tarantulas, 2 dogs & a bunch of rats!
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02-19-03, 02:23 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Aug-2002
Location: Ontario
Age: 46
Posts: 5,000
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welcome to the site!!!
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02-20-03, 08:38 AM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Nov-2002
Location: phoenix,az
Posts: 208
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Welcome. All of the points above are very good and the article that Linds mentioned is a good one. Also switching to frozen/thawed prey works alot better in the end. Much easier.
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02-20-03, 05:26 PM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Feb-2003
Location: Moncton, New Brunswick
Age: 41
Posts: 1,279
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Ok you may or may not know alot about burms but that is fine. Whats done is done as long as you are serious about keeping it no mater how BIG it gets that is I think the only reason they are not good begginer snakes.
Other wise there good snakes and they calme down quit fast as for age I would say about 2-3 mons old hear is when it get fun. A burm can grow 14" a month if you let it they have a botemles pit for a stomach keep her warm and well fed and hang on for the ride.
you will learn alot about snakes with a burm It is to bad it was not snappy when you got it you would have seen just how fast they calm down with patience wou will see how fast a snake can grow. all the above post are true I belive you should move snakes when feading but not when it comes to the giants.
Oh ya it may be your first snake but trust me not your last Moahahah....LOL welcome to snakes and have fun with the new addictionyou may not see it now but you will
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0.1 Jungle Carpet Pythons,
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