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11-17-03, 09:29 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Nov-2003
Location: Toronto
Age: 44
Posts: 945
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Questions from a newbie
Hello all, I'm currently looking into purchasing my first snake and I think I've come to the final decision that I want a Ball python, so now that I've made the decision I have a ton of questions.
I've done some research and have some good basics on heating tempatures, feeding, habitat, and care but it's allot of the specifcs I'm lacking on. So here goes.....
I know during the day there should be a cool side of 75 - 80F and a basking area of 90 - 95F but what is the best heat source? I was thinking a combination of UTH and light bulbs would be good? the UTH heater for night times and the light for during the day. Also taking into account that the tempature should drop a little bit during the night hours. That's why I thought an UTH heater would be better because I woulnd't have to have a light on at all times. Also would an infrared light be better? What wattage should I use to keep the tempature at the right level?
For substrate I was thinking of Fir Bark but I'm a bit worried about if the snake ingests some of the bark. What harm will come to a snake in the occurance it was to ingest some of the substrate? Also is it better to feed out of the cage or in the cage? I would think it would be better to feed in the cage because from what I've been reading aftering being fed the snake should not be botherd for 24 - 48 hours for fear of regeratation(sp?). So if that's true how does feeding the snake outside of the inclousure then putting him back in after ward effect his digestion?
For humadity what is the best way to keep it around 60%? I've purchased a 50 gal tank with a wire top, (I have some questions about the top next) is misting it daily a good way or just keeping the water bowl in the basking area all I should need to do? I'm confused on what is the best idea here.
Now for the wire top, I purchased one that seems very secure but at the opisite ends of the cage it seems like there is a bit of give to it. Now how much give is too much give? I have to push pretty hard with my hand from the inside out to make it give to a point that the snake would be able to fit his head out, or is the fact that it has any give at all a bad thing? Should I secure it further with bungee cords or something of that nature?
Just like to thank everyone in advance for putting up with my newbie ramblings. Good thing is I'm in no huge rush to get answers to these questions because I haven't even purchased the snake yet. But I want to make sure that when I do everything will be done right, so that's why I'm asking so many questions.
Thanks again
Adam aka Vengeance
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11-17-03, 09:47 PM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: May-2003
Location: manassas virginia (USA)
Age: 38
Posts: 1,516
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i use a uth and a reptile black light 24/7. the wattage depends on the tank. 75 is too cool, try the low 80s for a cool side, and high 70s for cool side at night, and 95 is a wee bit high, try 92 at the most
i use in/outdoor carpet for sub. its cheap, and when it gets dirty i throw it in the wash, its simple. i also feed in the cage, less handling to stress the snake before eating, bps have enough feeding quirks, and i dont like to add to them.
for humidity i only mist when in shed, it doesnt hurt when they arent, just make shure not to do it too much, once or twice a day sounds good. i have screen tops on both of my bp enclosure, when thr humidity drops, or the cool side is too cool i put some comic books ontop of the screen to help hold in the heat/humidity. tin foil works too.
being too safe is never a bad idea, i use those clamps that you can buy @ the petstore for like 3$ USD, they work, but you might want to get two sets for a larger cage.
no prob. i made the mistake of buying the snake and then asking questions, but things evened out (kinda) she still has some eating probs, but thats more on her than it is on me, or maybe the other way around.
just remember we are always here to help, no question is stupid, just stupid answers.
oh, and a bp purchased now may stop eating b/c its their winter fast period. just wanted to give you a heads up
-Jacob
__________________
I got a bunch of snakes and a bunch of guns
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11-17-03, 10:17 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Mar-2002
Location: BC
Posts: 9,740
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...
Quote:
I know during the day there should be a cool side of 75 - 80F and a basking area of 90 - 95F but what is the best heat source?
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1) The temp during the day is the SAME as the temp at night, unless you're cycling. Don't beat yourself up in trying to get a couple degree drop in temp at night.
2) Best heat source is either heat tape, heat pad, or UTH. Lights suck. Lights are for reading, not keeping Ball Pythons.
Quote:
I was thinking a combination of UTH and light bulbs would be good?
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3) See #2 above.
Quote:
For substrate I was thinking of Fir Bark but I'm a bit worried about if the snake ingests some of the bark.
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4) Fir bark is ok, as long as it doesn't smell "piney". Cypress mulch is best, but newspaper and aspen bedding also work. So does Orchid Bark, which is a type of fir bark.
Quote:
What harm will come to a snake in the occurance it was to ingest some of the substrate?
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5) "Some" is a relative term but if you are referring to eating some by accident during feeding, I wouldn't worry about it. They don't go around with their mouths open so they wouldn't really ingest any by accident at any other time.
Quote:
Also is it better to feed out of the cage or in the cage?
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6) I doubt one is "better", but its much easier to feed inside the cage. Trust me, where to feed a Ball Pythons is NOT going to be your main concern. Getting the thing to eat regularly is the problem. Feeding it in a satin-lined treasure chest isn't going to make a difference if it doesn't want to eat. And it won't want to eat if you keep it wrong.
Quote:
For humadity what is the best way to keep it around 60%? I've purchased a 50 gal tank with a wire top,
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7) YOUR best way to take that screen top and throw it in the garbage. Screen tops are about as useful to a Ball Python as a calculator. Actually, they are detrimental. Scrap it. A properly-constructed Ball Python cage will not require much in the way of spraying.
Quote:
Now for the wire top, I purchased one that seems very secure but at the opisite ends of the cage it seems like there is a bit of give to it. Now how much give is too much give? I have to push pretty hard with my hand from the inside out to make it give to a point that the snake would be able to fit his head out, or is the fact that it has any give at all a bad thing? Should I secure it further with bungee cords or something of that nature?
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8) Securing it with a set of bungie cords is only going to piss off your local garbage men and cause them to not want to empty the garbage can that you threw the wire top in in the first place.
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11-17-03, 10:25 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Mar-2002
Location: BC
Posts: 9,740
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...
Here's what you do:
Get a Captive Bred (CB) baby Ball from Corey Woods or Markus Jayne out near you and set it up in a Rubbermaid (either 5.83L or 11.4L size) with a heat pad under a portion, making the cage have a heat gradient of 80F to 92F. Adjust until you get it calibrated properly. Get some newspaper and a small water dish (deli cup) and a small clay pot as a hide box. Away you go. Ask in a year (or two) how to build a custom enclosure for your adult Ball Pythons.
Piece of cake.
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11-17-03, 11:46 PM
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#5
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Banned
Join Date: Oct-2003
Location: Victoria BC, Canada
Posts: 531
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hey jeff i've got a question, on my heat pad it's 90 exactly which is great, and the humidity if 60 which is also great, but on the cool side its just barely above room temp at around 72-74. the only part of the tank above 80degrees is right on the heat pad. you said it should be a gradient of 90-80 but im at like 90-72, any way to fix this?
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11-17-03, 11:52 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Mar-2002
Location: BC
Posts: 9,740
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...
Easy. You can't turn the heat up on the pad because that would increase the hot spot. So you put MORE of the pad under the Rubbermaid. If it was under 1/3 of one side, put it so its 1/2 under and recalibrate.
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11-17-03, 11:53 PM
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#7
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Banned
Join Date: Oct-2003
Location: Victoria BC, Canada
Posts: 531
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will do.
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11-18-03, 12:37 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Mar-2002
Location: BC
Posts: 9,740
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...
Let us know the results.
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11-18-03, 06:53 AM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Oct-2003
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 560
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Most people have problems holding heat and/or humidity in tanks. I have a 50 gallon tank with a sliding screen top. My temps hold fine but humidity sucked. I was deterimined to make the tank work. Some are able to just cover with a damp towel, put the water bowl on the ward side, mist constantly, etc - too much work. I was having to put a wet towel on and rewet twice a day and mist 2-3 times a day. Ugh. Finally what worked for me was to put duct tape on most of the cover and I added a Tropic-Aire humidifier with a Rena air pump and all I have to do is refill the water in the reservoir every now and then. This I don't mind. I've decided to eventually get a Boaphile or something like that for my BP and put a lower humidity snake in the tank. Just want to warn ya can be a lot of work to keep things right in a tank or can just take a lot of time/patience to find what works best for your situation.
__________________
1.0 Ball Python "Aragorn", 1.0 Bredl's Carpet Python "Strider"
1.0 Kenyan Sand Boa "Gimli", 1.0 Saharan Sand Boa "Frodo"
1.0 Mexican Black King "Indigo", 0.1 California King "Gentoo", 1.0 Snow Corn "Chile", 0.1 Okeetee Corn "Amazon"
1.0 Crested Gecko "Willow", 0.1 IJ Blue-Tongued Skink "Phoebe", 1.0 Indonesian Blue-Tongued Skink "Cole"
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11-18-03, 08:38 AM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Nov-2003
Location: Toronto
Age: 44
Posts: 945
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All good suggestions, thanks.
I've already bought the 50 gal tank and wire top so I'm going to have to make due with those. I was thinking about cutting some glass to fit the top of the tank and then put the wire over top of it. Of course I would sand down the sharp edges to make sure no harm came to the snake, but I've heard people mention that air flow can play a big part as well. Do you think covering mabye 1/2 or 3/4 of the tank with a glass lid would restrict the air flow too much?
Tigergenesis
That pump defenitly seems like a good idea if I'm running into problems with the hummidity, not too expensive either. Thanks for the suggestion.
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11-18-03, 10:13 AM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Jul-2003
Location: ON
Posts: 528
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You could put a corn snake in that 50 since their humidity requirements are less taxing, and then buy a rubbermaid like Jeff says for that BP.
rg
__________________
1 adult bull snake: "Dozer"; 1.1 juvenile bull snakes: Oscar and Phoebe; 3 baby red-sided garters; 1.1 macklot's pythons
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11-18-03, 11:22 AM
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#12
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Banned
Join Date: Oct-2003
Location: Victoria BC, Canada
Posts: 531
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Re: ...
Quote:
Originally posted by Jeff_Favelle
Let us know the results.
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ok, i put the heatpad under half the rubbermaid, and it did NOTHING for the other side  i have holes around the whole thing about 2inches apart, and on the coolend i added a few more. the cool end is like 75, warm end 90. but the humidity is 55-60 all around, any suggestions?
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11-18-03, 11:41 AM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Oct-2003
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 560
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Thanks RG! I have been looking into some kind of ratsnake - either corn or trans-peco.
__________________
1.0 Ball Python "Aragorn", 1.0 Bredl's Carpet Python "Strider"
1.0 Kenyan Sand Boa "Gimli", 1.0 Saharan Sand Boa "Frodo"
1.0 Mexican Black King "Indigo", 0.1 California King "Gentoo", 1.0 Snow Corn "Chile", 0.1 Okeetee Corn "Amazon"
1.0 Crested Gecko "Willow", 0.1 IJ Blue-Tongued Skink "Phoebe", 1.0 Indonesian Blue-Tongued Skink "Cole"
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11-18-03, 11:45 AM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Nov-2003
Location: Toronto
Age: 44
Posts: 945
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Quote:
You could put a corn snake in that 50 since their humidity requirements are less taxing, and then buy a rubbermaid like Jeff says for that BP.
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Yes, I could do that, but unless your going to give me the Corn snake and the rubermaid container and everything else I need it more of a can't afford it
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11-18-03, 05:55 PM
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#15
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Banned
Join Date: Oct-2003
Location: Victoria BC, Canada
Posts: 531
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ok vengeance you're obviously very impatient and really want a ball, but did you know balls aren't even a good first snake? balls almost always go off feed, and sometimes for over 6months...ive heard of cases longer then a year without eating, do you wan't something as a first snake that you can't even feed? get a rosy boa or corn snake or something else, that you don't need high humidity requirements, and don't go off feed regularly. also you won't be able to get constant 60% humidity in a aquarium, and evebn if you get close you'll have high maintanence like spraying, wetting, etc...if you're low on money also get a snake that takes less to feed, since you most likely won't want to waste 2bucks a week when your BP goes off feed and you have to chuck the rats.
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