Q&A for baby brb pics

[beefieee]

Hello. I recently got my first brb and got a few super nooby and simple Q&A. Please help my with alteast one if you can.

1. I've always kept it warm in my house(80-85). It just so happens that brbs like that temp. If I keep my house 80-85 24/7, does he still need heaters? Of is a 78-82f tank+90% humidity fine?

2. I just read that BRBs don't need lighting like other reptiles? True? If so, I might remove the night light but keep the daylight

3. Skittles is about 18in long and pen thickness. Unsure on his age but I would guess only a few weeks, right?

4.I feed Skittles for the first time yesterday. I read that it can be hard to get them to eat but skittles attacked the pinkie as soon as I lowered it into the feeding tank. Happy, hungry, or just a heavy eater? Should I feed him more if he is so into it?

4b. He failed the first attempt to eat the pinkie. He tried to eat it long ways. lol. Guessing he is new to feeding. I picked up pinkie mice, but pinkie rats might be a better size for him. should I feed him 2 at a time then switch to rats?

5. Does Environmental stuff effects his color and/or rainbow shine? Like food or humidity?

6. Tonight, He held his mouth wide open for a few seconds. Only did it that one time. Whats that about?

7. How many teeth do brb have?

8. He scares off into space about sometimes with head angled 45% above the horizon. Guessing that's a hurting pose? I looked up stargazing and that's snakes bending all about and looking up, right?

9.I normally grab him from behind but i grabbed him from infront a few times too. Which is better?

10. He is brown and bright gold irl but looks orange and sometimes red, in pictures alot. Is this all brbs?

Last one for now.
11. I'm so paranoid of RI. The humidity in the tank is 80-90, while the temp is 80-82. Is that fine? He is eating and exploring, so I'm guessing he is happy right?

12.Got any random tips for me?

PIC TIME YOU EARNED IT!!!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B07...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B07...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B07...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B07...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B07...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B07...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B07...ew?usp=sharing


He curled around my middle fingers and chilled in my palm for about a hour while watching TV
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B07...ew?usp=sharing

he tied himself up
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B07...ew?usp=sharing

The wide mouth thing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B07...ew?usp=sharing

[bigsnakegirl785]

1) I'd try not to let it get as hot as 85F for an extended period of time. 85F is ok if they are allowed a way to escape the heat, but if their entire enclosure is above ~83F all the time, it can be deadly.

2) Most snakes do not require lighting. I'd still try to at least let enough sunlight into the room to power its day/night cycle, though. You can use a lamp to provide light if you wish, but put it on a 12/12 cycle on a timer and give the snake a lot of hiding spots to escape the light as BRBs hate bright light, being nocturnal.

3) Could possibly be a few weeks to a few months old. Mine came to me at 2 months of age and 22" long, but some are born smaller and each snake will grow at its own rate.

4) You could probably offer something more like a mouse fuzzy, I like to avoid pinkies for boas myself. Boa constrictors have been known to die from milk belly, although it's not a commonly recorded occurrence it is a risk, and I avoid it with all my boas since most boas share a delicate digestive system to varying degrees, unlike pythons. Once its large enough for fuzzy or hopper rats, then make the switch to rats.

5) Yes. A dehydrated BRB will not have a good iridescence to it, and their skin will wrinkle and they will have bad sheds. Likewise, a dehydrated BRB (or any snake) will not have as bright of colors, and with continued bad sheds they can permanently lose color in their scales. My ball python had bad sheds for 5 years, and as a result has deformed scales and a few scales that have completely lost their color. A properly-hydrated BRB will have silk-soft skin, at least with babies mine hasn't grown up completely yet so not sure how adults measure. That said, my adult BCI has just as soft of skin as he had as a baby.

6) Probably yawning, all snakes do this to realign their jaws or just to yawn, like us.

7) Not sure, but if you're worried about their bite it's not the amount of teeth you should be worried about but the size of their teeth.

8) Stargazing comes with a lack of muscle control, all my snakes stare at things every once in awhile, it's just them looking at things.

9) Grabbing from the middle back is best, so as not to present yourself as a predator. Many snakes are head shy as well. So lift up by the middle and place in your other hand, it should wrap the remaining back portion of its body around your hand/fingers as you lift it.

10) All BRBs colors vary, but yes this is a common color for them. Depending on the light, my BRB can look a gross brown, a bright orange, or have a reddish tinge.

11) BRBs are not prone to RIs, and they high humidity, so even if it's 100% all the time they should not develop an RI, in fact I'd try not to let it dip below 80% even as an adult. Gross, constantly wet bedding is what you should be worried about, and gross conditions is what causes scale rot and RI for these guys, they require much higher humidity than most other snakes. Temps sound good.

I believe too low of humidity may also cause RI now that I think about it. Adults tolerate humidity as low as 75%, but I'd still try to keep it 80-100% if you could, as they simply tolerate the lower humidity.

[Wingbeats]

1) BRBs prefer a temp gradient of 70-83F. Extended temps above 85 can be harmful....I had a week where my AC broke during a heat wave, and so I took my rainbow boa to my air-conditioned office to protect her. I'm glad I did so - temps that are too high for too long can be harmful or deadly!

2) Yeah, no need for a night light. I have a fluorescent light on a timer that turns on during the day - but that's just for display/natural day cycle. My rainbow boa only comes out of her hides at night to explore.

3) Yeah I would guess a month old? That was how big mine was at that age...but growth varies between individuals.

4) It's good to feed babies once a week, or once every 5 days at max. Yours can probably take a mouse fuzzy just fine - a pinky may be too small. The general rule of thumb is a feeder that is 150% bigger than the max width of your snake. Or, 10-15% of their body weight. I weigh my rainbow boa and weigh her food, and I stay in that 10-15% weight range

5) Yeah, unhealthy boas look duller, and like what was said above, dehydration can also really affect how they look. A healthy boa will be the shiniest!

6) Snakes yawn

7) No idea, actually.

8) It's probably just him looking at things. That's what mine does when she is curious about stuff not on the floor.

9) I gently tap the ground next to mine before I pick her up, to let her know I'm there. Then I scoop her up from the middle/back. She is often curled up in her hide when I do this, so I just gently work my fingers under her whole body and then lift her in my palm. She sometimes makes huffy noises in complaint, but she relaxes in my hands when she is out. I put her back as soon as she shows any signs of stress (heavy breathing, trying to escape, moving quickly).

10) BRBs have a lot of variation! It's fun to see all kinds of pics from people.

11) A boa that is eating is a happy boa, yes. And your humidity is great! Almost no such thing as humidity being too high with this species, haha. If you were to change anything, you may want a broader gradient in temps across the enclosure (70-82 instead of 80-82) but that may require you cooling your house down lol.

12) Always use a thermostat with any heating stuff

[bigsnakegirl785]

10-15% only really applies to ball pythons and retics, I'd try to stay below that for boas. My BRB gets hopper mice, which are more around 7-10% of his weight (I stay away from the ones that are bigger than that) and 1-1.5x his girth. Even if you did use it for BRBs, that rule only applies to babies so once they turn a year or reach a certain weight, I'd go off a girth-only rule. I also personally don't think any snake eating rodents should eat more often than 7 days, even if the meal is a bit small, but that's personal opinion.

[beefieee]

You guys are awesome!!!.

I only ask about the teeth thing because He stroke at my hand twice over the 1st two days. The odd thing is that it felt like he just headbutted me. Like a gnat flying into you. Ever since then he makes it clear when he is getting fussy and I leave him alone.


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B07...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B07...ew?usp=sharing

[Aaron_S]

Originally Posted by bigsnakegirl785

10-15% only really applies to ball pythons and retics, I'd try to stay below that for boas. My BRB gets hopper mice, which are more around 7-10% of his weight (I stay away from the ones that are bigger than that) and 1-1.5x his girth. Even if you did use it for BRBs, that rule only applies to babies so once they turn a year or reach a certain weight, I'd go off a girth-only rule. I also personally don't think any snake eating rodents should eat more often than 7 days, even if the meal is a bit small, but that's personal opinion.

Actually Lori and I have consistently used the 10 - 15% body weight for a number of species including many boas. I will note, we haven't yet used it on rainbow boas and what I like to do is keep it to 10% for the first couple of months anyway. That's when I find boas tend to have a more sensitive stomach then I move them up slowly throughout their first year.

[bigsnakegirl785]

Eh I'm just of the view it's too much, I like feeding conservatively. I go off girth, and I find what percentage or weight generally keeps it at that size for ordering purposes, but other than that only my retic gets fed according to weight. As said, the 7-10% of weight puts it at 1-1.5x the girth of my BRB so 10-15% could potentially put it over 2x his girth. They're very thin, lightweight snakes.

[Aaron_S]

Originally Posted by bigsnakegirl785

Eh I'm just of the view it's too much, I like feeding conservatively. I go off girth, and I find what percentage or weight generally keeps it at that size for ordering purposes, but other than that only my retic gets fed according to weight. As said, the 7-10% of weight puts it at 1-1.5x the girth of my BRB so 10-15% could potentially put it over 2x his girth. They're very thin, lightweight snakes.

To each their own. Everyone has their own way. I've used this method with many different species and as per my usual, I like to put out other methods in threads so any readers can discern for themselves which is best for them.

[bigsnakegirl785]

Originally Posted by Aaron_S

To each their own. Everyone has their own way. I've used this method with many different species and as per my usual, I like to put out other methods in threads so any readers can discern for themselves which is best for them.

I think you'll find you'll be feeding a lot more food to a BRB going off a 10-15% rule than you would be a BCI or ball python or retic. Because they are thin-bodied and light, a prey item in that range is going to be a lot bigger compared to them than it would be with a heavier-bodied animal and they can't take huge meals like retics can. They are fairly delicate animals, even into adulthood. Feeding a BRB 10-15% would be the equivalent to feeding a retic 30% of its weight without the snake actually being able to handle it.

It may work for the other species you use it with, but I don't think it's appropriate for a BRB. Kinda iffy on the BCI but they're your snakes and they're more likely to be able to handle it than a BRB imo.

For example in the differences between weights, a 6' BCI would weigh 8-10 lbs a 6' BRB would only weigh 2-4 lbs.

Ok, now for a visual.

This is my 100 gram BRB next to a 10 gram hopper mouse, which is 10% of his weight. Probably an ok meal, but as I said earlier this would be the absolute largest meal I would give him and I'd honestly avoid it unless I had absolutely no other choice. I feed him meals right now that leave only a small bulge.


This is him next to the 10 gram mouse and a 6 gram mouse, which would be the equivalent (roughly) of a mouse 15% of his weight. Unfortunately I couldn't find a 15 gram mouse or rat to give a more accurate representation. They were all either as heavy as 10 grams or as light as 25 grams.

[Snakesitter]

Just a few quick additions from a breeder's perspective...

1) Just to repeat the already-stated caution(s), this species does poorly at 85F and above. Be very careful.

3) Unfortunately, age is almost impossible to tell based on a reptile’s size. In addition to time, feeding has a major effect on their growth rate. Have you tried asking the seller for any records?

4) Did you offer a rat pink or a mouse pink? If rat, that is a perfect meal. If mouse, it is too small; you’ll need to offer three or four per meal, or upgrade to a hopper (which they can take from birth, and love). I never weigh my food, but eyeball it to keep it about as big around as the snake.

11) Yes, too low of a humidity level can cause an RI with this species.

Good luck!!!

[Aaron_S]

Originally Posted by bigsnakegirl785

I think you'll find you'll be feeding a lot more food to a BRB going off a 10-15% rule than you would be a BCI or ball python or retic. Because they are thin-bodied and light, a prey item in that range is going to be a lot bigger compared to them than it would be with a heavier-bodied animal and they can't take huge meals like retics can. They are fairly delicate animals, even into adulthood. Feeding a BRB 10-15% would be the equivalent to feeding a retic 30% of its weight without the snake actually being able to handle it.

It may work for the other species you use it with, but I don't think it's appropriate for a BRB. Kinda iffy on the BCI but they're your snakes and they're more likely to be able to handle it than a BRB imo.

For example in the differences between weights, a 6' BCI would weigh 8-10 lbs a 6' BRB would only weigh 2-4 lbs.

Ok, now for a visual.

This is my 100 gram BRB next to a 10 gram hopper mouse, which is 10% of his weight. Probably an ok meal, but as I said earlier this would be the absolute largest meal I would give him and I'd honestly avoid it unless I had absolutely no other choice. I feed him meals right now that leave only a small bulge.


This is him next to the 10 gram mouse and a 6 gram mouse, which would be the equivalent (roughly) of a mouse 15% of his weight. Unfortunately I couldn't find a 15 gram mouse or rat to give a more accurate representation. They were all either as heavy as 10 grams or as light as 25 grams.

Appreciate the feedback and the numbers. Further, regardless of our conversation, this proves there's two methods and neither one is bad or wrong. Simply two different ways of doing it.

You keep mentioning how BRB's are thin and light bodied snakes so let's drop the comparisons between them retics, balls and BCI's.

Lori and I also keep amazon tree boas. They are extremely thin and light bodied snakes. Moreso than BRB's. We use this method as a means to feed them and we see appropriate growth, sheds and healthy animals. Our animals thrive utilizing our method of weight controlled prey items. I would be confident in our methods and our abilities to feed BRB's in a similar fashion.

What I should stress and it's my fault for not doing so earlier, is that these are living creatures, things happen. We need to be able to assess and re-assess an always evolving situation. Prey item size or otherwise. If we believe our animals are taking in too much then we pull our feeding days further apart.

[bigsnakegirl785]

Ah yes that does make more sense, I think prey size of that size would be perfectly fine spaced a little further apart than normal meals if it proves necessary for an individual animal. I just tend to be a bit overcautious with my boas in general. I generally up food intake when I notice a growth spurt myself, so a 10-15% rule may be something I implement during a large growth spurt although I'd probably still try to stay on the smaller end of things.

Unfortunately my only experience with the 10-15% rule was with my first BCI, who ended up growing way too large too quickly and became overweight. I implemented this rule until he was 2-2.5 years old. So that may be part of the reason I stay away from it now, too.

[beefieee]

Update!

He is up to eating fuzzy rats. He grabs them as soon as I put one near him! He seems happy and is super friendly after the first 2 weeks. He is even face friendly.

I love the fact that he is getting bigger/stronger. It is making handling easier and more fun. All i got to do is support his middle and he is fine. A month ago he couldn't support himself that great and got fatigued after 5-10minutes. Just handled him for 50mins and he was fine.

I have noticed that he sometimes rubs his face into the palm of my hand while handling him. He has always done this. He shed last week and is continuing this behavior. It's like he is petting me. He is physically healthy. Is this a normal trait?

Also, Im thinking of jumping him to the Terra 36" x 18" x 36" glass Terrariums if he remains nice for another month or so. The stupid 10gal screen top cage that the vendor pointed me to isn't ideal as I had to tape plastic over 80% of the top to keep the humidity up. If I need a new setup, why not go hard? Is that too big? Will that be large enough for him in 2 or 3yrs? Whats the best terrariums for BRB?


last question, Should I add a special scent to his feeding cage?


Now for pics

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0...2lZYlNIaUllRFk
^2 weeks ago or so

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0...3E3ZUdac3o5bTg
^a few minutes ago

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0...HNmTEZIdEltTDA
^Watching TV with me.

[bigsnakegirl785]

My BRB sometimes does that, but from most of the bite videos I've seen that precedes a feeding bite, so I'm like, ok buddy back off, and pull his head up and he goes on about his business.

Most likely any glass terrarium you use will give you the exact same problems as the one you have now. It just comes with the territory of a glass screen-top tank.

The actual size of the tank should work for quite awhile, that's enough floor space for a 4.5' snake if 36"x18" is the floor space, or for a 6' snake if the floor space is 36"x36".

If you could afford it, I'd honestly suggest getting a PVC enclosure. You shouldn't need to mod it at all beyond sealing the corners for certain brands, and it keeps heat nicely.

Also probably want to fix those picture links, there's no access to them. Try uploading to Photobucket or Tinypic, or if you've hosted them on another site get the URL and insert it in the "Insert Image" button.

[Snakesitter]

I've seen the head-rub precede a bite as well, so be cautious. And it's not always feeding-related. (Unless when in shed, then such rubs are fine.)

+1 for the PVC idea. Much better than glass, and much much better than screen-topped tanks.

Have you tried replacing the screen lid with a custom-cut piece of plexiglass?