Not eating well...

Brently · 02-07-14, 03:43 PM

For the past few feedings Athena has not been as excited about eating. The last 3 feedings she wouldn't even strike, I had to leave the rat in there overnight for her to finally eat. Now she is plenty health and definitely more active at night so I have just justified this behavior with her activity at night. I am not worried as I know that sometimes snakes go off food for a while, just curious anyone has any ideas on how to entice her to be a more active feeder.

Particulars: 8'Lx2'Wx3'H enclosure, Daytime temp 84 hot side and around 75-77 cool side depending on temps in the house. night time 79 hot side not sure on exact on cool side. Humidity usually around 50-60% higher when I spray.

bigsnakegirl785 · 02-07-14, 04:00 PM

Those are quite cold temps...There should be a 90F basking spot at all times. The hot side should be 80-85F, and the cool side should not get below 75F. I prefer to keep the cool side 80F. There is no need for a nighttime drop.

How big is your snake, and if it's small for it's enclosure, how well do you have your enclosure decorated? Pics of everything would help.

SSSSnakes · 02-07-14, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brently

I had to leave the rat in there overnight for her to finally eat.

I hope you are feeding F/T rats. If you are feeding live rats, never leave them in a enclosure with a snake over night. Always supervise when feeding a live rodent, until the snake kills it. The rat could potentially hurt the snake.

limey · 02-07-14, 08:12 PM

I'll second what has already been said.

She's probably a bit chilly. They have less of an appetite in colder temps... try raising the heat if you can. 90-92 hot side and 75-80 on the cooler side.

Also, boas being crepuscular - feed right at the beginning of the evening - say about 8pm. Make sure the rat is thawed out and slightly warm. You can heat it up in warm water before offering. Sometimes if snakes feel that something is cold (dead), they are not interested.

Good luck.

Brently · 02-08-14, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigsnakegirl785

Those are quite cold temps...There should be a 90F basking spot at all times. The hot side should be 80-85F, and the cool side should not get below 75F. I prefer to keep the cool side 80F. There is no need for a nighttime drop.

How big is your snake, and if it's small for it's enclosure, how well do you have your enclosure decorated? Pics of everything would help.

Okay sorry just to clarify. There is a basking area of roughly 90 and the cool side only drops at night but I will bring the temps up. I am going to add another hide soon just need to cut it. She is 6' long. She spends most of her time on the cool side that is why I haven't raised temps. I have raised temps in the past and she just moved to the cold end. If you refer back to my temps you will notice that 84 is between 80-85 and 75-77 is not lower than 75. I will make sure it doesn't drop below 75. There maybe no need for a nighttime drop but it is more natural. Unless BCC are from some mystical area of the world that temperatures don't drop at night. Sorry if I come off a bit frustrated but I have maintained the same perameters for some time without issue. Will double check and recheck temps but I don't feel this is the issue. Maybe I am wrong in which case I am sorry.

Brently · 02-08-14, 08:46 AM

And I forgot but yes I feed F/T rats

**lady_bug87** · 02-08-14, 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brently

Okay sorry just to clarify. There is a basking area of roughly 90 and the cool side only drops at night but I will bring the temps up. I am going to add another hide soon just need to cut it. She is 6' long. She spends most of her time on the cool side that is why I haven't raised temps. I have raised temps in the past and she just moved to the cold end. If you refer back to my temps you will notice that 84 is between 80-85 and 75-77 is not lower than 75. I will make sure it doesn't drop below 75. There maybe no need for a nighttime drop but it is more natural. Unless BCC are from some mystical area of the world that temperatures don't drop at night. Sorry if I come off a bit frustrated but I have maintained the same perameters for some time without issue. Will double check and recheck temps but I don't feel this is the issue. Maybe I am wrong in which case I am sorry.

So if you are right and you know everything than why are you posting a thread?

These people are trying to help you by offering what they think could be the problem based on the info you gave them.

And there is no need to drop the temps at night. It isn't in the wild its in your snake room

bigsnakegirl785 · 02-08-14, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brently

Okay sorry just to clarify. There is a basking area of roughly 90 and the cool side only drops at night but I will bring the temps up. I am going to add another hide soon just need to cut it. She is 6' long. She spends most of her time on the cool side that is why I haven't raised temps. I have raised temps in the past and she just moved to the cold end. If you refer back to my temps you will notice that 84 is between 80-85 and 75-77 is not lower than 75. I will make sure it doesn't drop below 75. There maybe no need for a nighttime drop but it is more natural. Unless BCC are from some mystical area of the world that temperatures don't drop at night. Sorry if I come off a bit frustrated but I have maintained the same perameters for some time without issue. Will double check and recheck temps but I don't feel this is the issue. Maybe I am wrong in which case I am sorry.

In your original post you said you dropped the hot side, not the cool side. If using the excuse that nothing's gone wrong works, I do not drop my temps and I've never had my boa refuse a meal except for when I misjudged his food size. As I said, there is no NEED to, no reason to jump on me about it. If they wanted the nighttime drop, that's what the cool side is for. The cool side should be the temp of their range's nighttime temp (in this case 75F). Usually when I hear a boa goes off eating, it always comes down to husbandry i.e. temps, humidity, and the enclosure decoration. I'm not sure boas go on winter strikes, but I could be wrong. Mine hasn't before and he's breeding size, and I haven't heard of it in boas before. If they do, it could just be a winter strike if she appears otherwise healthy, but you could have her checked out at the vet if it continues. Is there any other info you could offer?

Brently · 02-08-14, 11:19 AM

Okay I really feel that there is a large gap in communication here. Probably due to the inability to hear inflection or tone in typed word. I am not trying to jump on anyone I just feel as though my competence is being brought into question and I am responding in kind. While I may not be a professional herpetologist I at the same time am not stupid. I understand that while a nighttime drop may not be necessary I also believe that it is in no way the cause of her lack of interest as this is not a new aspect of her day to day life. I understand that the individuals here are trying to help by giving me feed back I just don't think that the feedback is directed at the root problem. I have noticed here that it seems that the manner in which people house and care for their animals is always the answer to every problem. I probably shouldn't have posted anything, I suppose I am more looking for reassurance. If it is the temps that are the problem why is it that my boa seems to navigate to the cooler temp side of the tank all the time? I offer hides on both sides of the tank plenty of furniture good ground space and a large water dish. I have a basking area that has a gradient of 90-93 degrees across the width of the space. I will put in a UTH for the cool side today or tomorrow to ensure that the cool side is always warm enough but I just feel that she wouldn't be over there if she didn't like the temp. I know I'm rambling and I am pretty sure that my expression is not being received, all I want to do is provide a good living experience for Athena. I will try to adjust temps accordingly but I am skeptical to say the least. I appreciate the feedback and apologize if I have offended your expertise.

Mikoh4792 · 02-08-14, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brently

Okay I really feel that there is a large gap in communication here. Probably due to the inability to hear inflection or tone in typed word. I am not trying to jump on anyone I just feel as though my competence is being brought into question and I am responding in kind. While I may not be a professional herpetologist I at the same time am not stupid. I understand that while a nighttime drop may not be necessary I also believe that it is in no way the cause of her lack of interest as this is not a new aspect of her day to day life. I understand that the individuals here are trying to help by giving me feed back I just don't think that the feedback is directed at the root problem. I have noticed here that it seems that the manner in which people house and care for their animals is always the answer to every problem. I probably shouldn't have posted anything, I suppose I am more looking for reassurance. If it is the temps that are the problem why is it that my boa seems to navigate to the cooler temp side of the tank all the time? I offer hides on both sides of the tank plenty of furniture good ground space and a large water dish. I have a basking area that has a gradient of 90-93 degrees across the width of the space. I will put in a UTH for the cool side today or tomorrow to ensure that the cool side is always warm enough but I just feel that she wouldn't be over there if she didn't like the temp. I know I'm rambling and I am pretty sure that my expression is not being received, all I want to do is provide a good living experience for Athena. I will try to adjust temps accordingly but I am skeptical to say the least. I appreciate the feedback and apologize if I have offended your expertise.

If you want solid advice, I'd talk to a well-known breeder like Vin Russo. You can get his contact info from his site cuttingedgeherp.

Other than that, questioning a keepers competence is to be expected when one comes here with a reptile issue... it's not an attack against you, it's just a way of seeing if your competence is a factor. Now that we have that out of the way...

**Aaron_S** · 02-08-14, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brently

For the past few feedings Athena has not been as excited about eating. The last 3 feedings she wouldn't even strike, I had to leave the rat in there overnight for her to finally eat. Now she is plenty health and definitely more active at night so I have just justified this behavior with her activity at night. I am not worried as I know that sometimes snakes go off food for a while, just curious anyone has any ideas on how to entice her to be a more active feeder.

Particulars: 8'Lx2'Wx3'H enclosure, Daytime temp 84 hot side and around 75-77 cool side depending on temps in the house. night time 79 hot side not sure on exact on cool side. Humidity usually around 50-60% higher when I spray.

If she's still eating then who cares how she eats.

Maybe she realized it's already dead and doesn't have to be an 'active feeder'.

People, not just you, need to realize snakes aren't going to do something just because we think it's best.

Brently · 02-08-14, 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikoh4792

If you want solid advice, I'd talk to a well-known breeder like Vin Russo. You can get his contact info from his site cuttingedgeherp.

Other than that, questioning a keepers competence is to be expected when one comes here with a reptile issue... it's not an attack against you, it's just a way of seeing if your competence is a factor. Now that we have that out of the way...

Thanks I'll keep that in mind. I have to say I disagree with needing to expect the competence issue but I guess that's my hurdle.

Brently · 02-08-14, 11:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aaron_S

If she's still eating then who cares how she eats.

Maybe she realized it's already dead and doesn't have to be an 'active feeder'.

People, not just you, need to realize snakes aren't going to do something just because we think it's best.

Yeah I suppose that is a really good point. I suppose as long as she is healthy then I should be happy. After all without being able to communicate it really is best guess on what a reptile wants.

CosmicOwl · 02-09-14, 12:13 AM

She doesn't need to have a demonic feeding response. If she eats, she eats. Sometimes my snakes won't go after a mouse, so I just leave it in the cage over night. It's always gone the next morning.

Makavelli · 02-12-14, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brently

For the past few feedings Athena has not been as excited about eating. The last 3 feedings she wouldn't even strike, I had to leave the rat in there overnight for her to finally eat.

Particulars: 8'Lx2'Wx3'H enclosure

Hey Brently,
I would also love to see your longer (and not as tall

) enclosure.

Since it hasn't been asked, How often are you feeding now?
My only, newbie advice, is to consider feeding less often. I also have a female, not quite 6ft but maybe 5.5ft. I started spreading out her feedings (same size prey) and started to notice more activity leading up to feeding day. Her roaming, (a sign of hunger/hunting) is my sign to feed her. Her eagerness is back, and see went from leaving it in overnight to striking within seconds(her norm).

Just a thought.