First time snake owner, looking for help! - Page 6

alessia55 · 01-29-12, 09:10 PM

Ok, since you pre-ordered the mice already, you should feed her those. Technically it would be best if you waited 7-10 AFTER having moved her to her new enclosure since she needs time to get used to it. But if it can't wait, go ahead and feed her this Thursday. You can begin the process to switch her over to f/t after that (which is also cheaper usually).

To feed live:
1. Put the snake in the container
2. Put ONE mouse in
3. SUPERVISE. This is so important. Don't let that mouse out of your sight. When she grabs it and coils around it, you MUST watch the whole process. If you see the little mouse scratching at your snake as she coils it, grab those little paws and hold them so that it doesn't scratch scales off your snake.
4. Once she's down swallowing the first mouse, you can introduce the next hopper and repeat the process.
5. Depending on how big the container is, here is how I take my snake out after feeding...... since they have a full belly and you don't want them to regurgitate, I take the container and put it inside the enclosure. They can slither out of it themselves. If the container is too big to fit inside her enclosure, WASH YOUR HANDS so they don't smell like mouse, then you can GENTLY lift her supporting her whole body and GENTLY put her inside her enclosure near one of her hides.

Kylie · 01-29-12, 09:13 PM

Ok awsome! Thanks your so much help! i love it!!!!

BlackIndigo · 01-29-12, 10:49 PM

Hi Kylie,
Cheapest way is as follows. Get a small UTH from Amazon.com and a "plug in lamp" dimmer at home depot. You do not need a thermostat for this snake, I don't care what anyone says... Having had king snakes since 1980!!!! Giving the snake room to move, and a hide with access to plenty of water is the key. Take it out often, and you have yourself a very happy snake.

youngster · 01-29-12, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackIndigo

You do not need a thermostat for this snake, I don't care what anyone says...

O_o.... errrrr
You don't "NEED" one, but ultimately the extra 30-40 dollars goes a long way.
Those, "rheostats" are very unreliable.

With thermostats, you set the temp and you're done, with dimmers they don't change with the ambient so you have to keep adjusting it.

Kylie · 01-29-12, 11:15 PM

Im going with a thermostat as i have already ordered it...Its not a bad thing to have one right??

**millertime89** · 01-30-12, 01:08 AM

never a bad thing, its preferable in case something goes wrong or changes outside the environment.

Kylie · 01-30-12, 01:35 AM

Oh ok well thats good.

Kylie · 01-30-12, 01:44 AM

Im worried i might have shocked bella by moving her into her new home...she hasnt moved much since i did so. and i know a few people whos snakes starved themselfs to death after being moved...

Kylie · 01-30-12, 02:17 AM

Iv been exploring some of the forums, and some people find it exciting that some people have chosen an albino for their first..are they any different the normal other then their eye color? Thats all i have noticed about mine is her eyes are red....

**millertime89** · 01-30-12, 02:22 AM

albinos lack black pigment, dunno why people think its exciting to choose an albino as a first. In fact, I think its less surprising because albinos are generally more visually striking.
Just leave her be, she'll come out when she wants to. Like I said, they stay where they're comfortable. She probably moves, just when you're never there to see it.

Lankyrob · 01-30-12, 08:37 AM

My PERSONAL opinion, please feel free to ignore if you so wish.

Dont feed the snake live until you are absolutely sure that it will NOT eat frozen thawed.

Also dont feed in a separate container, all the moving around is more likely to stress the snake and make it less likely to eat.

Also dont try to feed it until it has been in its new home for at least 7 days - it is probably staying in one place because it is shocked with moving twice in a short time.

Buy some frozen mice or rats that are roughly 1.5 times the girth of the widest part of the snake, in about 7-10days time defrost one and then warm it up, paying particular attention to the skull. Put a plastic plate into the viv and entice the snake to strike at the mouse over the plate, this reduces any risk of the snake eating substrate. Obviously hold the mouse with tongs/tweezers and NOT in your hand.

KORBIN5895 · 01-30-12, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackIndigo

Hi Kylie,
Cheapest way is as follows. Get a small UTH from Amazon.com and a "plug in lamp" dimmer at home depot. You do not need a thermostat for this snake, I don't care what anyone says... Having had king snakes since 1980!!!! Giving the snake room to move, and a hide with access to plenty of water is the key. Take it out often, and you have yourself a very happy snake.

That's awesome! Can we get pics of your snakes?

Kylie · 01-30-12, 09:19 PM

Do snakes need sticks in their tank? as u see in mine she has one but i dont ever see her climbing it, if i take it out will it harm her? its taking up alot of room and i dont thinks he likes to climb over/around it..

alessia55 · 01-30-12, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kylie

Do snakes need sticks in their tank? as u see in mine she has one but i dont ever see her climbing it, if i take it out will it harm her? its taking up alot of room and i dont thinks he likes to climb over/around it..

Your snake not using the stick in there is totally normal. However, I would keep it in if it's something good for her to rub up against when she's shedding. I have a "stick" in my Kaybe's cage because he uses it to help himself shed. In my Pika's cage I don't have one because the hides he has are pretty rough and he can use the top of them to help himself shed, and space is pretty cramped in his cage as it is. It's totally optional. But just make sure there's something rough in there for her to use when she's shedding.

Kylie · 01-30-12, 09:33 PM

What bout corns?