Good beginner lizard? - Page 4

prairiepanda · 05-16-15, 10:30 AM

The month will go by quickly, I'm sure

In the meantime, you can try thinking of possible names for your future pet! You can also look into what vendors will be at the con and check out their websites to see what they'll have available. Not all breeders announce their offering beforehand, but usually you can at least see what they've been breeding.

DDW · 05-16-15, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prairiepanda

The month will go by quickly, I'm sure

In the meantime, you can try thinking of possible names for your future pet! You can also look into what vendors will be at the con and check out their websites to see what they'll have available. Not all breeders announce their offering beforehand, but usually you can at least see what they've been breeding.

Good point! Will do, thanks^.=.^

DDW · 05-20-15, 08:11 AM

Okay, I've seen somewhere that the 12th 18th is for hatchling to juvies but from what you are saying, it's good for an adult. (I may be misunderstanding) the larger size I've read is something like 18x18x24 or something like that. That is more but I am willing to pay for it if it will be appropriate. And, is it necessary to feed insects when they are young? If so, I might just consider buying a juvie or adult. I do want one that gets a nice white coloration to it when fired down, maybe some red in it as well. (I have about $200 with the $50 my parents are pitching in for the gecko)

prairiepanda · 05-20-15, 09:32 AM

The 12x12x18 Exo terra is ample for an adult; you don't need the bigger one. Crested geckos need some insects as babies but gargoyle geckos do not. A tiny bit of calcium supplement in the food would be good for a baby garg though. The geckos at the con might be fired up or down, so it would be good to ask the breeder if they have photos. You should ask about the parents also, as some morphs change colour as they grow. A baby that fires down all white might gain a pink or orange tinge fired down as an adult if the parents are high reds.

DDW · 05-20-15, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prairiepanda

The 12x12x18 Exo terra is ample for an adult; you don't need the bigger one. Crested geckos need some insects as babies but gargoyle geckos do not. A tiny bit of calcium supplement in the food would be good for a baby garg though. The geckos at the con might be fired up or down, so it would be good to ask the breeder if they have photos. You should ask about the parents also, as some morphs change colour as they grow. A baby that fires down all white might gain a pink or orange tinge fired down as an adult if the parents are high reds.

I didn't think about the fact that they'd change coloration as they grow but I did expect the fact of the fired up or down at the time I view them. The pictures and asking about the parents is a good idea. The calcium supplement should come free since I'm getting the VIP tickets (I might even get a free exo Terra set up if I'm lucky enough) and getting there early. Thankyou^.=.^

DDW · 05-23-15, 08:25 PM

I forgot to ask(for gargoyle gecko), I know about misting but humidity varies a lot sometimes here so what is the range I should keep it in because I'll probably get a humidity sensor (what brand is the best BTW and what price should I look out for?)

prairiepanda · 05-24-15, 08:53 AM

For the hygrometer, you can get the cheapest one if you'd like because you don't need to be precise. Just don't get an analog hygrometer; make sure it's digital. The analog ones are sometimes calibrated okay when they're new but always eventually get screwed up. I've seen digital ones for as low as $16, and I think that was a hygro/thermo combo.

For a garg you want the humidity to be around 50% all day(don't let it get too far below that). It'll spike to around 90% when you mist and gradually drop to 50. This spike is important, so mist daily even if the humidity never drops below 50. Just don't let it sit at 90 all day either(but that shouldn't be a problem unless there's no ventilation).

A lot of breeders don't use a hygrometer, though. I judge by watching what happens to the food, as I described before. But the humidity in my place is fairly constant(around 20) so I don't have to make any changes from day to day. If your place fluctuates a lot then a hygrometer might come in handy.

DDW · 05-24-15, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prairiepanda

For the hygrometer, you can get the cheapest one if you'd like because you don't need to be precise. Just don't get an analog hygrometer; make sure it's digital. The analog ones are sometimes calibrated okay when they're new but always eventually get screwed up. I've seen digital ones for as low as $16, and I think that was a hygro/thermo combo.

For a garg you want the humidity to be around 50% all day(don't let it get too far below that). It'll spike to around 90% when you mist and gradually drop to 50. This spike is important, so mist daily even if the humidity never drops below 50. Just don't let it sit at 90 all day either(but that shouldn't be a problem unless there's no ventilation).

A lot of breeders don't use a hygrometer, though. I judge by watching what happens to the food, as I described before. But the humidity in my place is fairly constant(around 20) so I don't have to make any changes from day to day. If your place fluctuates a lot then a hygrometer might come in handy.

I've heard about the analog ones messing up. Yah,sometimes the humidity will make you sweat even if it's not very hot ouside. I might get the combo one just in case Temps fluctuate too much too. It's going to be in a room that isn't well insulated and is far from the main heater/AC. I don't trust the window AC much either and will probably need a fan in the summer. You mentioned breeders before, are you a breeder?

DDW · 05-24-15, 05:55 PM

Also, I've read that regular tap water isn't good for herps but to get them the spring/drinking water from the grocery store. What do you prefer/use ?

And what about display light? What should I get. I plan to have a day- night timer for it (or switch it on/off accordingly) to stimulate day and night but what should I use? I was thinking eventually led because lamps (I've read) dry out the air and my end up getting the temp too high.

DDW · 05-24-15, 06:37 PM

And what about using decoration that is meant for aquariums or something that is meant for just decor in the home like Newport Coast Collection Dragon Castle Tea Light Holder - Walmart.com
(of course I wouldn't put candles in it lol just in case somebody misunderstands)

prairiepanda · 05-24-15, 07:18 PM

I'm not a breeder, but I know two breeders in my area. I do hope to breed in the future, though, after being inspired by my virgin female's one fertile egg(it didn't make it to full term, unfortunately).

As for temperature; generally, if you're comfortable then the gecko is comfortable. So if you're roasting then a fan would be a good idea. Try to keep the temperature below 80F. They can handle higher temperatures for short periods, but try to avoid that. The ideal temperature range is 68-75.

I would go with LEDs for lighting. Keep in mind these are nocturnal animals and will become more active when the lights are dim. If you're installing lighting directly on/in the enclosure, I'd recommend 2 different lights: one daytime bright light for daytime viewing and one dim light(can be coloured if you wish; blue seems to disturb them less than red...green should be okay too) In the evening I dim the lights in my room to encourage the critters to start coming out to explore before it's time for lights out completely.

Aquarium deco is completely safe, just rinse it with hot water before use. Home decor items are a bit more questionable because sometimes the paints or coatings on them are intended to be kept dry and may leach chemicals when wet for extended periods, as they would be in the terrarium. In most cases, it should be safe, but I would soak it in water for a couple days to see if anything comes off it. A cheap pH test kit to test the pH of the water before and after would help determine whether anything invisible is leaching out. Most people aren't paranoid enough to go to such lengths, though. Also, anything intended to be in contact with food would be safe.

EDIT: Oh yeah, and about tap water: It depends on your water. I give my animals tap water. But I have contacted my town and confirmed that they do not use chloramine or fluoride in the water here. I know that some people even use tap water without those additives and have no issues, but I personally would not. Chlorine is perfectly fine as it usually dissipates from the water as it's coming from the tap, not to be confused with chloramine which lingers. Of course, if you don't drink your tap water directly then you shouldn't give it to your animals either. Some areas have suspicious water even for humans lol

DDW · 05-24-15, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prairiepanda

I'm not a breeder, but I know two breeders in my area. I do hope to breed in the future, though, after being inspired by my virgin female's one fertile egg(it didn't make it to full term, unfortunately).

As for temperature; generally, if you're comfortable then the gecko is comfortable. So if you're roasting then a fan would be a good idea. Try to keep the temperature below 80F. They can handle higher temperatures for short periods, but try to avoid that. The ideal temperature range is 68-75.

I would go with LEDs for lighting. Keep in mind these are nocturnal animals and will become more active when the lights are dim. If you're installing lighting directly on/in the enclosure, I'd recommend 2 different lights: one daytime bright light for daytime viewing and one dim light(can be coloured if you wish; blue seems to disturb them less than red...green should be okay too) In the evening I dim the lights in my room to encourage the critters to start coming out to explore before it's time for lights out completely.

Aquarium deco is completely safe, just rinse it with hot water before use. Home decor items are a bit more questionable because sometimes the paints or coatings on them are intended to be kept dry and may leach chemicals when wet for extended periods, as they would be in the terrarium. In most cases, it should be safe, but I would soak it in water for a couple days to see if anything comes off it. A cheap pH test kit to test the pH of the water before and after would help determine whether anything invisible is leaching out. Most people aren't paranoid enough to go to such lengths, though. Also, anything intended to be in contact with food would be safe.

EDIT: Oh yeah, and about tap water: It depends on your water. I give my animals tap water. But I have contacted my town and confirmed that they do not use chloramine or fluoride in the water here. I know that some people even use tap water without those additives and have no issues, but I personally would not. Chlorine is perfectly fine as it usually dissipates from the water as it's coming from the tap, not to be confused with chloramine which lingers. Of course, if you don't drink your tap water directly then you shouldn't give it to your animals either. Some areas have suspicious water even for humans lol

Good tips, thanks

I don't like the taste of my water (although I don't like water anyway) I'll get drinking water from the store (or spring water, lol tastes better and costs the same at the supermarket) as to the decor, I'll probably test that the way you said when I get a chance but I have some extra old aquarium decor that I can use, and I can get others to provide cool looking hides in addition to some fake plants from the expo. My dad did suggest using very diluted bleach to sterilize used pieces.

How can I go about making the pieces I really want in there safe if there are chemicals leaking? I want to go with a boneyard/midevil theme if I can. (Like a mini dragon living in my room lol) I want to name it after a dragon of some kind. Like off of eragon (the book series) or something like that.

prairiepanda · 05-25-15, 10:59 AM

If chemicals are leaching off it, I wouldn't put it in a terrarium. But if you're really really determined to have a certain piece in there and it fails the water test, you could remove all the paint from it and re-paint it yourself with a waterproof non-toxic paint. I doubt it will come to that, though. These days most things will pass the water test, thanks to decades of lawsuits getting manufacturers to exercise more caution.

When you're sterilizing used aquarium ornaments, diluted bleach is fine but be sure to rinse it several times and let it air out for several hours to ensure no bleach remains. Vinegar is safer and easier to remove, but not as effective as bleach.

Sounds like a really cool theme by the way. I bet your enclosure will look awesome! its been years since I have read the Eragon books; I should look up the dragon names again...

DDW · 05-25-15, 01:00 PM

Good point, and Ive read about the rinsing and airing, makes sense, and is something to remember But I'll probably only Have to do that a couple times so I won't mind if it is better for cleaning and disinfection. I have a cool eastern dragon statue for the aquarium. or the one I showed you. I'm actually going to checkout some different aquarium decor in a bit.

Yah, I have read all four books (hopefully the fifth when it comes out if I'm remembering right.)

Thanks! I hope it works the way I want it to.Dragon dragon names are pretty awesome and not used for reps as much as you would think. If I get one with yellow in it, I want to name it Glaedr or if it has a lot of black/black stripes, Shruikan

(unsexed or male of coarse)

prairiepanda · 05-26-15, 08:58 AM

Shruikan would be pretty sweet. I tend to disregard gender when I'm naming herps and inverts, partly because their gender can be so uncertain and partly because I tend to get attached to specific names for a species or morph and can't think of a new one when I end up getting the wrong gender. The only time I'm really picky about gender-specific names is when there's significant sexual dimorphism. I sure get enough people asking whether I plan on breeding Zelda and Link though! Not only are they both female, but they're also not even from the same genus!