Finally found a vet! Now how do I do this? - Page 2

joeysgreen · 12-02-05, 10:19 AM

While there is obviously a difference in opinions here, I agree that while snakes can take a lot of food, often, especially when young, there is no need. A pinkie every 5 days is a bit on the slim side, but not on the negligeable side IMO.

With that said though, the snakes problem of constipation may be related to the feeding schedule and a change in pattern and size of prey may help tremendously. You mentioned you're about to switch to a larger size, well, try a good size prey item weekly or every 10 days. This will make the guts work, and also give them a time for rest.

As per the vet; enemas and manipulation is often needed to help snakes void , well, snakes with this problem anyways. I hope sedation was used...
The idea for additional fibre is lacking without any suggestions along with it. I think this is a case for the vet knowing what may help, but not correlating dog versus snake knowledge. The suggestion was based on a "it could only help" theory, which is not a bad thing when coming from an otherwise knowledgeable person.

Ian

tuper · 12-05-05, 08:54 PM

Wow, you guys have got me all paranoid now! :medfroner

The snake is approximately 2 years old and about 25 inches long, but has a narrower head than most it's size (that I've seen pictures of, anyway.) The vet himself told me that SMALLER meals were the way to go because the digestion of the skulls may have been what was backing it up. (Where's the pulling the hair out emoticon?)

I have only had him/her a little over a month, and for a little background, it was basically a rescue that came to me in dehydrated shape to begin with. It had retained TWO sheds, and wasn't eating. I have never owned a snake before in my life, so I am trying to learn.

I DO trust the opinions of the folks on this board, or I wouldn't have even come here. I DO know that vets can not be as knowledgeable about some things sometimes. It's just all so confusing at times, when there are different opinions. I am learning that reptiles are not that easy to take care of! (Ask me ANYTHING about horse care, I am a walking encyclopedia on equines! Hahahaha!)

*sigh* All I want to do is help this little critter out, and keep him/her happy and healthy for many years. Although, along with my lack of knowledge about snakes, I have a hubby. (Married gals might understand where I'm coming from with this one!) I pick and choose my battles with him (although I do love him dearly.) For the most part, care of our pets falls on my "animal-loving" shoulders. But I practically had to beg to be allowed to get this snake, which I only took in the first place because it looked like death. So, in order to "sweeten the pot" (and convince him to let me rescue the snake) I said it could be his. He is the one who has dictated that the snake will eat live. I KNOW it's not good for them as far as injury goes, but my hands are basically tied AT THE MOMENT. I don't have any doubt in my mind that in time I can convince him to feed f/t, but I have to take my time convincing him. Like I said, I pick and choose my battles, and I know how hard to push. I can't push too hard for it, or he will explode on me and it will never happen. That's just the way he works. IF they had pre-killed available in this area, I would buy one and "slip" it in. However, they don't to my knowledge, and I have asked around several times. I have looked into RodentPro, but they were wanting over $60 (all at once) for like 25 small rats. OUCH! (Granted, I paid $50 for the vet visit, but to my hubby those expenses are different.) :medlotsae

Ok, so now that you know my life story (hahahaha) what other advice on what to feed do you have for me? I certainly can't kill the mouse on my own, but it handles them well and is ALWAYS supervised when fed. I feed one mouse, and then ofer a second, but the snake never seems interested in the other one. I REALLY don't want to feed a live rat (like EVER.) *sigh*

Here's my tank set up right now: Undertank heater to 92 degrees in the warm side, 70-84 degrees in the cool side (air temp, it gets cooler at night.) Humidity stayes between 60-70% with a large waterfall. Here is a pic:

Here is a pic of him/her in the bath:

joeysgreen · 12-05-05, 10:22 PM

Really quickly, I noticed that you're temps are on the cool side. Double check them with others and care sheets, books ect. but 92 seems okay for a hot side, BUT, because your heat pad is set to the temp, doesn't necessarily mean that will be the temp in the cage... you'll have to double check this. I do know however that if the cool end is in the low to mid 70's in a cage that size, then there is no way that the hot end is hot enough. The cool end should be no cooler than 80F in a smaller cage like yours (IMO) with perhaps a drop into the higher 70's at night.

Ian

ps, I"m in a rush tonight, so verify what I said with someone else

hbwright · 12-06-05, 08:27 AM

How are you measuring your temps. The cool side has to come up somehow. With it being a glass tank I would put some insulation around the outside in the back and sides and keep the screen top covered (assuming there is a screen top). I would be concerned about the waterfall and that it is dampening the substrate which could cause scale rot.

As far as the ordering rodents, order more of them and keep them air tight packed in the back of the freezer and you can have them readily available for a long time and economically it ends up cheaper in the long run.

Long story short, I had a feeding accident years before I had the internet to educate me and when I brought my ball python (adult 4+ ft) to the vet they showed me a photo album FULL of feeding accident pictures including one that the rodent ate its way out of the snake from the inside out. I NEVER fed live again. The snake still died shortly after from what we presume was from parasites caused by live/fresh killed rodents. These rats were even bred by us so we assumed we were safe in that department. I can share pictures with you if you want to show them to your husband. I know mine was tempted to try live when Casey was hard to feed in the first few months with us and I had to use the visual proof of what a rodent could do to a snake in order to get him to change his mind. I know about the choosing the battles thing and this was one battle I didn't even have to think about fighting, it wasn't an option for me. Another option for you would be to make a home made O2 chamber, kill the rats and freeze them yourself. 24" should be able to take fuzzy rats but if fiber is an issue I might go ahead and stick to the mice since hair has been known to act as a natural fiber source for snakes. This is debatable by so many people it is hard to know. You'll find some who say that rats are always better and some that say to stick with mice until your snake is big enough to consume rats with hair at about the pup size. I have never used or made an O2 chamber but I know if you do a search you'll find that many people have and you can copy their instructions. Nobody likes killing small fuzzy animals, but it can be a necessary evil when it comes to caring for your pets.

Your snake is georgeous. I love his pattern. His head looks fine IMO in proportion to his body size. Ball pythons do have a small head compared to their plump bodies. Not so much as a blood but pretty close. LOL. One of the things I love about them.