Modifying my 20gallon tank for more floor space

Kiljosh · 12-13-11, 04:59 PM

So here is my idea. I am going to modify my 20 gallon aquarium(screen top) to have sliding plexiglass doors. I am going to flip it on it's side so the top becomes the front. Does anyone have any experience with doing this? The dimensions of the inside of the tank are about 16hx24wx12d(96in^2) so I'll get a lot more floor space out of this and prevent any future escapes since I may be filling this tank soon.

My plan was to silicone a piece of plexiglass about 2-3 inches high along the bottom of the tank like shown in red in the picture. I know its confusing but I make sense of it haha. The doors(light blue) are going to plexiglass as well. Both are going to be around 1/8" thick(if I can find it, 1/4" if not). The area where the doors overlap is going to be sealed with felt strips. I feel felt would scratch less than a rubber weatherstrip type seal. For the tracks my plan is to carve out an 1/8" groove down the length of a thin piece of wood with my dremel and a straightedge. The wood will be .5Hx24W1.5D(maybe 2"). It will be epoxy'ed into place. For a lock I'm going to use a normal display case lock because I can't come up with any ideas that would look clean.

With this in mind maybe I'll just spend the money on some metal tracks, because I'm worried the wood will grab at the plexiglass when opening the doors even with some kind of lubricant like graphite powder(that I'm not even sure is safe for snakes).

Some questions though. I am going to need airflow. What configuration should the vent holes be on the doors? I am thinking drill them high on the cool side door low on the hot side. Also, does anyone have experience building doors to a cage and have a better idea for a lock/escapeproofing system? Also, do I need to reinforce the glass on the bottom? The cage will be on risers because of the heat mats I'm using and it's going on top of a wood dresser. Lastly, does anyone object to me letting the heatlamp over the hot side sit on top of the tank on the glass? Or do I need to ventilate it some.

Thanks for any help, and once again I apologize if I rambled or my sweet rendition of AutoCAD via paint confuses you

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alessia55 · 12-13-11, 05:17 PM

I can't help you since I don't know how to build anything, let alone an enclosure... but whatever you used to make those markings on the photo is really fancy. I'm totally impressed by it

jarich · 12-13-11, 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kiljosh

So here is my idea. I am going to modify my 20 gallon aquarium(screen top) to have sliding plexiglass doors.

With this in mind maybe I'll just spend the money on some metal tracks, because I'm worried the wood will grab at the plexiglass when opening the doors even with some kind of lubricant like graphite powder(that I'm not even sure is safe for snakes).

Some questions though. I am going to need airflow. What configuration should the vent holes be on the doors? I am thinking drill them high on the cool side door low on the hot side. Also, does anyone have experience building doors to a cage and have a better idea for a lock/escapeproofing system? Also, do I need to reinforce the glass on the bottom? The cage will be on risers because of the heat mats I'm using and it's going on top of a wood dresser. Lastly, does anyone object to me letting the heatlamp over the hot side sit on top of the tank on the glass? Or do I need to ventilate it some.

My first question is why do this with a 20 gallon tank? Seems like a decent amount of work for such a small thing. But, you must have your reasons, so lets get to the other questions...

I would definitely go for either the metal tracks, or they do make a hard plastic track that should suffice for those small pieces of plexi. I would stay away from the wood as it will either warp over time or need to be sealed really well. Sliding doors are generally the best as far as making it escape proof, just make sure to not leave any gaps anywhere. You can buy a cheap display case lock that will keep both pieces in place without worry.

As for whether it needs to be reinforced, I suppose it depends on what you are putting in there as substrate. If its just the shredded wood like you have in the picture, then no, there is no need. If you plan on filling it with dirt and sand and water, well thats another story.

ABSOLUTELY DO NOT put the light right on the glass. Even a low wattage bulb when trapped against the glass will heat it up and shatter the glass.

It seems like overall it would be much easier to just adapt your screen top to accomodate your needs. Again, this really depends on what you are planning on putting in there. You could put the low wattage light right on top of the screen, and then use plexi to cover the part the light doesnt cover so you dont lose all the humidity. A couple of metal pressure locks from your pet store should run about $2 and make it escape proof. Then you could spend all that extra time you now have making a stellar large enclosure for when whatever you buy inevitably outgrows that little 20 gallon

**millertime89** · 12-13-11, 06:25 PM

why not have front hinged one? so much easier, to keep the substrate from falling out all you would need is to have a secured piece to act as a lip and then have hinges on the top or bottom (whichever suits your plan best) and call it good. It'll be easier and cheaper IMO.

ZARADOZIA · 12-14-11, 04:43 AM

Love the idea, but heating could be an issue if you choose to use lamps. However, if you are placing and animal inside that does not require light/uva/uvb/sunshine/basking, you can safely use heat cable. Otherwise you will have to cut circle holes in the top for the lights because they can & will shatter the glass.

Kiljosh · 12-14-11, 11:25 AM

Ok this is my 3rd time trying to reply, I have typed these "novels" twice now and screwed it up and not posted somehow! Firstly, a correction in my first post...

Quote:

16hx24wx12d(96in^2)

96 in^2 is the floor area I would gain. Not that its a big deal I just didn't want to seem like an idiot.

I want to thank all of you for the info, I don't know how to say that enough. This tank is for a Banana Kingsnake. So he is pretty easy to take care of. For the light situation, ahaha, this is why I asked. Last thing I need is to start a fire. I am running one 60w IR bulb on the hot spot. I'm going to elevate it off the glass with a stand I'm making now. About an inch clearance between the start of the shield's cone and the glass.

I went with your idea millertime, to build a hinged door instead. I think it's just as tough though working around the fact that I don't want to drill the glass and need to design a working lock system. But it is cheaper, I managed to get an 18"x24" piece of 1/4" Acrylic, a hinge, a knob, 17' of weatherstrip, a tube of glass to metal glue, and a tube of epoxy all for $19 and some change. Lowes FTW.

Besides the lock I have everything I need, minus the hinge which I'm going to have to change. Pics to come I suppose!

For now, I have a single piece of 1/4" Acrylic cut down to the size of the opening. I am sealing it with 3/16" Vinyl Foam Weatherseal. I just ran it around the existing plastic edges. The acrylic fits in on top of it, it compresses enough to seal the door from any escapes haha. I also grabbed a simple knob I'm going to screw into the acrylic sheet for a handle. The hinge I bought is not going to work with the angle of the corner and how long it's "hands" are. I need a wider one as this one is only an inch and I have a little over a 1/4" from the corner to wear the acrylic starts. The drilled holes would be like an 1/8" away from the acrylics edge and I'm not comfortable with that.

Lankyrob · 12-14-11, 01:14 PM

MY brain isnt working 100% today so forgive me if its a stupid question - wont the glass reflect the vast amount of heat back into the air? And even tho the bulb wont be touching the glass are you sure it wont heat the glass enough to cause cracking?

Mose · 12-14-11, 01:24 PM

Sliding doors will be way easier than hinged doors. I made door track out of pieces of wood a while back, and it was not very durable. I used a router table, and even then it was hard to make them straight, so I wouldn't even dream of trying it with a Dremel. You can get 6' of 1/4" or 1/8" plastic door track for under $10. It's waterproof, durable, and 10 times better than what I made myself. Below are a couple of cages I made myself using this track and 0.100" plexiglass. The doors are self locking, so they don't need an external lock.

Cage made out of Melamine.

This cage was made out of 2 Itso cubes from Target welded together.

In principle, these cages aren't really different from turning an aquarium on its side. If I were you, I'd attach the track with silicone, and it would probably work just fine.

**millertime89** · 12-14-11, 02:57 PM

I should upload pics of a couple of Mose's other enclosures he's made, has some really nice, budget vivs.

Kiljosh · 12-15-11, 12:50 AM

So heres the finished product...

Mountain Dew bottle cap for a temporary washer haha.

I epoxy'ed the latches/hinges to the plastic rim of the tank. They are secured to the acrylic with more epoxy and 2 screws.

I am happy but I'll probably redo it to have the door open down honestly. Not bad for a few hours work while I watched TV and recovered from my first day of the season snowboarding

I am heating the tank with a UTH on a thermostat, going to get thermo's tommorrow! Going to try and use no lights but I want to see what temps I can get.

infernalis · 12-15-11, 12:55 AM

Not bad at all...

Kiljosh · 12-15-11, 01:34 AM

Thanks man, I don't think it's pro but I think it's escape proof now

By the way can you change the title of this thread to just read "Modifying my 20gallon tank for more floor space"?

I didn't go with sliding doors so the title is sort of misleading.

infernalis · 12-15-11, 01:44 AM

It's done.

**millertime89** · 12-15-11, 01:59 AM

looks good man.

DeesBalls · 12-15-11, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mose

Sliding doors will be way easier than hinged doors. I made door track out of pieces of wood a while back, and it was not very durable. I used a router table, and even then it was hard to make them straight, so I wouldn't even dream of trying it with a Dremel. You can get 6' of 1/4" or 1/8" plastic door track for under $10. It's waterproof, durable, and 10 times better than what I made myself. Below are a couple of cages I made myself using this track and 0.100" plexiglass. The doors are self locking, so they don't need an external lock.

Cage made out of Melamine.

This cage was made out of 2 Itso cubes from Target welded together.

In principle, these cages aren't really different from turning an aquarium on its side. If I were you, I'd attach the track with silicone, and it would probably work just fine.

where do you get your door tracks at?!!??! i looked all over and could not find any... any where, i had to use metal tracks... they work, just not really nice...