We need more BioActive talk

[Derek1]

This is a copy and paste from a google search. For Corns but, should work for most right? Anything you would change up?

For housing
tank: A taller tank is better for a BAS as you’ll need about 3” of substrate. I have 4” in one corner to provide another surface depth variety. A BAS also works better in 30 gallon and or larger and for snakes 9 months or older according to the book as small snakes get lost in all the ins and outs and it is therefore hard to monitor them. A taller tank is also good here because you can put more substrate in (better drainage) and still have the height needed for housing and decor items. Tank perimeter should be 2.5 - 3 times the length of your snake around the perimeter. More is fine/better too.

locking screen lid: The branches allow the snake to get right to the top so measures must be taken to ensure safety.


For the Bioactive substrate:
There was no hard and fast rule presented in the book, “The Art of Keeping Snakes” by Philippe de Vosjoli, in terms of ratio for the organic mixture of the BAS. What you are going for is drainage, non-compacting top layers, variety of organic matter for organisms to feed and live on. It seems to me that the ratio is not an exact science but I’d say this was my ratio for the top layer bioactive mixture:

- 4/8 ready to use potting soil with mixture of: peat moss, humus, compost, perlite. - 20 liters
- 2/8 coco peat - eco earth brand is fine - 2 bricks
- 2/8 PLAY sand - 2 liters. This is safe for ingestion.
- 2 handfuls of volcanic rock (for drainage) such as: perlite, un-fired clay or natural kitty litter clay with no additives (my potting soil already had some).
- 2 handfuls small fish tank gravel no jagged edges
- medium sided gravel (enough to cover the bottom of the tank in about a 1” layer)

substrate layers (from bottom to top):
bottom: (goes on the floor of the tank) medium sided fish tank gravel, sterilized, enough to cover the bottom about 1/2”

layer of screen: The book said this was optional and I’m glad I DIDN'T’T put it in. Without screen, the bottom peat layer settles in the cracks between the gravel and I was able to get at the moisture to stir it up to the upper layers to provide oxygen to the good bacteria.

middle: (goes on top of the gravel): some sort of straight peat. I used coco peat. This layer stops the dirt from settling between the gravel beneath as it is more tightly packed as it holds the most water of all the layers. water comes upwards from here to the top, dryer layer. You need 1 “ worth or so. Apparently an earth worm is a good idea down here, more if you got 'em.

top (where the snake lives): 2-3” of the BAS substrate mixture. Hills are nice around the plants or in the corners.


To provide basic needs and monitor:
- plastic tube/PVC piping (to water bottom of substrate) This tube gets put into the tank in the very corner before anything else is put into the tank. It gets propped up in either back corner and held in place by the gravel and substrate. Basically, this is used as a watering funnel for getting water to the very bottom of the tank, therefore allowing moisture/humidity to rise from below and encouraging organisms to stay below too. The width of a toilet paper roll or bit smaller is good. I hid mine behind a plant. Those black tubes from cricket keepers is what use. Get 14” or more. You’ll need to stuff a crumpled piece of screen into the tub to prevent the snake from getting stuck in it or something else that will no go mouldy.

- digital humidity gauge Humidity is well maintained in this type of set up. I keep it at around 70%. The top layer of substrate is dry so skin blisters or disease is a non-issue for me. My snake has good sheds where before she shed in pieces. She also burrows in the dirt for the moisture she needs and stopped doing so the day she shed. Now she’s out and about again.

- heat source, under tank heater (UTH) This is tricky. I found that because the substrate layer was 3“thick, and of a dense material, the smaller UTH did only half the job raising temp to 70-73 on a cool day/for the warm side which is not hot enough for the warm side. I use a UVB Plant light during the day which keeps the temperature on the warm side to where it needs to be 80-82 degrees whilst still allowing the cool side to remain cool inside the hide.

- digital probe thermometer (2) like any setup, the probe is best.

- night viewing light, hooded (well worth it) My corn is most active at night. I couldn't’t believe what she got up to when she thought no one was looking.

- tube/fluorescent light FOR PLANTS with UV (doubles as a day light and keep air warmish) You need a special light for plants to thrive as this will be the only light they get. They need 12-16 hours a day so the multiple hides for the snake and timer come in handy.

- cool and warm hides of wood or stone or half log, small & thin flag stone slabs, additional support rocks for the slabs to rest securely on- must be flat. - flag stone slabs are nice as they stack stable. Be concerned about rocks and logs toppling over and crushing your snake. The store bought resin/plastic hides are fine too but they just look fake with all that natural stuff IMO.

- water dish I put small polished rocks into the bottom of a glass dish for added colour and visual interest.

- feeding dish Jo eats out of her feeding dish readily but your snake may drag her food item around her viv. Jo is also small. My bigger 3.5 foot snake (Ball Python) I take out to feed cause she rolls around all over the place and I don’t want the stink of blood in the viv. However, I suspect the blood would create food for the bacteria, etc. I don’t use any bark in the substrate mixture for fear of impaction (although the book mentions it’s okay). The other things in the substrate mixture are either too large or readily digested organic matter. When the corn gets older, I may adjust this “feeding dish” routine to suit her habits.

- appliance timer (if desired) comes in handy for plant lights, and other electrical equipment you use. Vacations are not a worry.


For decor and adventure:
- branches with twigs: stem same girth as your snake, branching out to thinner. NOT PINE OR CEDAR-toxic. Research this please.

- smaller rocks for decoration. Don’t overcrowd the viv. A few rocks at the base of plants is nice. Group items together and leave empty floor space for poop and exploration.

NOTE: Plants and decor items should not cover more than 1/3 of the ground surface area available to the snake to leave room for monitoring your snake, room for her, and to make use of the bioactive substrate and active organisms in the “biofilm.”

- plants which do well in terrariums: RESEARCH TOXIC PLANTS. QUARANTINE YOUR PLANTS FOR A MONTH TO LOOK FOR BUGS. All but 3 of the plants I bought had spider mites or mealy bugs. Buy these first and set them aside, away from your other house plants (the bugs can and do spread) for observation while you collect supplies. I threw out infested plants or used them as outdoor plants.

Use plants that do well in a woodland terrarium, under artificial or low light. Desert type snakes may do well with succulents but not the corn. There’s too much moisture from below and root rot is a concern. I used a wandering Jew, and a bromeliads due to their strength, and tolerance for low /artificial light and moisture needs.

Again, my snake is small. As she grows, she’ll crush plants and let me know it’s time to change to a hardier, stronger species. Should be appropriate size, strength ‘cause they’ll get trampled otherwise.

TIP: Look for plants that offer opportunities to hide wires and tubing too!

Look for plants that compliment each other in colour but offer variety in structure so they don’t look the same. A small leafed plant coupled with a broad or long leaf plant makes a nice contrast. Plain with variegated, dark with light, etc. More on design later. Oh ya, water the plants at the base of the plant too and don’t fear misting them.


To maintain:
- spray bottle (mister) You have to mist daily, like usual. Keeps surface dust down and humidity up.

- long “roast” fork or small garden fork. (turn soil). The soil needs to be watered and turned weekly to allow oxygen to reach the good bioactive bugs and bacteria otherwise things will start to stink. Good bugs need oxygen, bad bugs can live in the compacted damp soil and do nothing but poop out stinky stuff that will turn your viv into a haven for harmful bacteria. You want the good bacteria here. More on this later. Good bacteria will eat the poop of the bad. More on the micro-life later too.

- small poop scooper To remove fecal matter (pooh) when you see it. A little left behind is not a bad thing. More on this in "maintaining".

Next installments to come:
- pictures
- How to put it all together.
- Maintaining.