Hello. My name is Christophe and I live in Belgium.
I noticed that there were some other members who keeps Yellow Anacondas so I decided to join this forum.
I have been herping for over 15 years and the Yellow Anaconda is one the most interesting species I have ever kept. This is a truly amazing animal with a great feeding response and a very feisty temperament.
A few of the most interesting facts is that they attack without first positioning themselves in a S-Coil, they just leap forward (or sideways) and bite down very hard.
When they are constricting (and even while eating) they keep 'rolling' with their prey. This is actually quite weird that they keep rolling while eating, this makes be suspect that in the wild they would eat a live prey too. (Anyone some info on this subject?).
Having almost no neck, attacking (even sideways) without coiling in a S-shape, being extremely strong and having one the most powerful bites I have ever witnessed in a snake for there size makes it quite difficult to restrain/hold them.
I have read that some people could tame them down a bit, but my male yellow anaconda just want to fight with me. Being extremely intelligent, fearless, attacking while just laying still and there pure brute power makes it a though job.
So here are some pictures of my CBB Male Yellow Anaconda and a care sheet, I don't know his age, I guess 2-3, I got this one very cheap (25€
) at a expo from a breeder who decided to stop breeding with this species.
Tip:
I have placed a large rubbermaid box on a heating pad to maintain the humidity level in the terrarium and to warm the water (29°C / 84 °C). This allows you to work with a screen top terrarium while maintaining humidity without mold growth and having a fresh air flow. Cover the screen top with a towel (in combination with a thermostat) to adjust heat/humidity level in the terrarium.
Hi Res Pictures / Photos:
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Care Sheet:
Quote:
Eunectes Notaeus – Yellow Anaconda
Distribution
Northern Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Paraguay.
Sexing and Characteristics:
The Yellow Anaconda or "Eunectes Notaeus" is an amazing animal. Yellow Anacondas have a bright yellow background with leopard like spotting down the sides of the snake, as well as rectangular and/or black ovals down the back. A lot of Yellow Anacondas have blotched or lightly faded blacks in their back pattern, which allows for a little more yellow and orange to come through the back of the snake. These snakes have a very unique attribute as well, like the Green Anaconda, Yellow Anacondas can not only lunge/snap forward,
but they can also bite at almost a complete 90 degree angle.
Anacondas are nocturnal and will tend to show more activity at night. Green Anacondas have been noted to live up to 30+/‐ years in captivity. When it comes to sexing Anacondas, we have found that spur sexing can be very effective and one of the safest ways of sexing. While still possible to pop or probe successfully, these can cause great harm if not done properly.
Size:
Yellow Anacondas are a more manageable size compared to the Green Anaconda and other large constrictors. Here are the average sizes noted in captivity. Keep in mind, all of these are averages and not be maximums.
Taken as minimums:
Neonates: 17" – 24" (43 cm – 61 cm)
Females: 12’ (3.6 meter)
Males: 8’ (2.4 meter)
Basic Husbandry:
Paper / Butcher Paper /newspaper
Aspen
Wood chips
Coco fibre
Water:
While this is a debatable subject to some, a large water source may or may not be used. If you do choose to use the soaking bowls, keep in mind that Anacondas will defecate in their water and if not change on a regular basic can cause scale infections and water blisters.* If you decide not to give them a water dish to soak in you must make sure that you keep the humidity levels up a little higher during shed to ensure a proper shed.
Be prepared for frequent water changes.
Temperatures:
Provide a basking spot of 90‐92 F (32-33 °C) with a background temperature of 81‐83 F (27-28°C).
Lighting and UV:
No special lighting is necessary for this snake, but UV’s are good for almost anything. If choosing to use lighting, keep it on 12 hour cycles, 12 hours of day, and 12 hours of night.
Humidity :
Providing a constant humidity range of 50%‐60% is needed. Now this can be harder than it seems using certain types of caging. In more ventilated caging the best way to maintain good humidity is to create a humidity hut. Take a Rubbermaid container (one that your snake can easily fit into), cut a hole in the top or side for entrance/exit, fill it with Sphagnum moss and then mist daily with warm water.
Heating & Equipment:
You can use under cage heating pads, ceramic heat emitters, or basking bulbs. We have been using belly heat for years without any problems what‐so‐ever.
Caging and Enclosures:
Yellow Anaconda cage requirements are a little easier to accommodate than other large constrictors with their smaller sizes. For Neonate Anacondas, I recommend using a smaller tub, something on the lines of a 6 qt or 15 qt tub. If using aquarium style caging, something on the lines of a 15‐20 gallon long would work. You don’t want to go too big at first, Anacondas are a very high stress snake, and tend to do better in smaller
enclosures as babies. Typically the rule for housing larger snakes is whenever the snake doubles the length of the cage, you bump it up a size (for example: you would change the cage when the snake is 8’ and in a 4’ cage). Typically the average size for an adult snake would be 6’ long x 30" wide x 18" high, or larger.
Diet:
Feed the snake at least once every 10 days, most people typically average one meal every 7 days to keep it on a week schedule. Most neonate Anacondas can start off on rat pups or rat weans without any problem, while some of the more picky eaters will prefer mice, day old chicks, or quail. Some snakes may be intimidated by large meals, so it’s always best to offer appropriate sizes and not go too big.
Larger Anacondas can accept prey items such as Rats, small Rabbits, small Pigs, or Guinea Pigs. We do always recommend people feed Frozen/Thawed prey instead of live for the safety and well being of the animals, but of course, not every animal will accept frozen thawed prey items, if this is the case, please remember to never leave a live rodent with any snake for long periods of time, as a defensive or hungry rodent could severely injure or kill the snake. Do not handle the snake for at least a day or two after feeding, this is to prevent regurgitation.
Maintenance:
Be cautious when handling, Yellow Anacondas are known for being an untrustworthy snake. Now, not all Anacondas are out to get you, there are some extremely docile animals that are worked with frequently, but we have found them to become spooked very easily and become somewhat defensive, even with tame animals. So please, whenever handling a large constrictor, make sure there is always another person around to help out if needed.
Be prepared for frequent water changes, defecation, and urination on a regular basis. Make sure to clean and disinfect all of the items in the cage including any décor and water bowls.
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