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Old 07-24-04, 03:17 PM   #1
Tim_Cranwill
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Join Date: Aug-2002
Location: Manitoba
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"Free Dumb-Breeder Rack" - PART 4: Wiring The Heat Tape

I'll just start by saying:
This is how <b><u>I</u></b> wire up my heat tape. This goes against the manufacturer's recommended method and IF you choose to follow my instructions, you are doing so at your <b><u>OWN</u></b> risk.

Now that I have said that, here is what I do and I feel pretty safe doing it this way.

Here are the materials I use: A pre-stripped lamp chord, electrical tape, foil tape, ring terminals, scissors and a crimping tool.



I start by covering all of the exposed copper with electrical tape.



Then I get set to crimp a ring terminal on each stripped end of the wire.



I also stagger the lengths of each wire so that all of my wiring comes out at the back of the rack instead of the side. That's just a personal preference though.



After that, I screw a metal screw through the ring terminal and through the copper strip on the heat tape. That is your connection point.



Because the screw-head is "live", you will need to cover it or insulated it with a non-conductive material. I use electrical tape but I have also used silicone and hot glue.



Now that it is all wired up and ready to go, the last thing I do is make sure the heat tape is secured to the shelf with some foil tape.



Now the heat tape is all connected and FLAT against the board.



This is how much of the bin is above the heat tape once the bins are slid right back on their rails. It's a few inches less than half of the floor space. That does seem like a lot of "heat area" to me and next time I might use two strips of 4" tape instead but that's all part of the learning curve!



I just want to thank everyone for their interest in these posts. I look forward to all of the feedback and ideas you have.

Next post will cover how to assemble the "levels". That just means fastening the shelves to the rail assemblies and how to properly space each rail assembly for smooth sliding!
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