Brazilian/Colombian Rainbow Boa FAQ: Try here first!

[Linds]

<b><I><U>Brazilian/Colombian Rainbow Boa FAQ</i></u>

What humidity level should I keep my snake at?</b>
Brazilians should be kept at no lower than 80% humidity, babies are especially susceptable to lower levels. Colombians can also be kept at the same levels, however they can tolerate lower levels better. Adults can be kept at 70% with no problems.

<b>What temperature should my boa be kept at?</b>
I find a temperature gradient of 75-88 works well for most boas. Caution must be taken that temperatures do not exceed these, as they cannot tolerate warmer temps as well as other boids.

<b>How should I measure the temperature?</b>
Stick on thermometers do not work well and they only measure the ambient (air) temperature around it. To measure the temps in your cage, you will need something that measures the surface temepratures in the cage, such as a temp gun or digital thermometer with a remote probe that can be placed in various areas around the cage.

<b>What is the best way to heat my snake?</b>
I prefer to use a bottom heat method, such as undertank heaters or heat tape. These are the most efficient method as they cost less, last longer, are very low wattage, and since heat rises, it makes more sense to heat from the bottom than the top. Heat panels can also work as well. Bulbs and ceramic heat emitters tend to dry out the enclosure quicker.

<b>What kind of enclosure should I have?</b>
Babies can be housed in rubbermaids with holes drilled for ventilation, and older snakes can be housed in custom enclosures. Tanks can also be used for smaller snakes, however they aren't the best choice IMHO as they do not offer any security, control over humdity, or insulation for maintenance of temperature, in addition to which they are quite cumbersome and inefficient space-wise.

<b>What is the best substrate?</b>
You should avoid any softwoods, such as pine, fir, and especially cedar! These contain phenols which can be harmful to your snake, some can even be potentially fatal! Additionally, these woods tend to mold under the humidity. Some safe substrates include, but are not limited to newspaper, papertowel, Carefresh, sphagnum moss and cypress mulch. Susbtrates that should be avoided include, but are not limited to, astro-turf, gravel, soil, softwood mulch/chips, and sand. Note that most loose substrates come with inherant risk of ingestion, which can pose problems such as impaction. I prefer to house all my smaller snakes on papertowels, and my larger snakes on newspaper.

<b>How big will my boa get?</b>
Brazilians typically stay in the 5-7 foot range, while Colombians typically stay in the 4.5-6 foot range.

<b>How much should I feed my boa?</b>
Your snake will tell you when it is in need of a meal and what kind of meals it prefers, until you learn to read your snakes behaviours you can use the general guideline of feeding babies every 5-7 days and subadult and adult snakes every 7-10 days. Boas can typically take very large meals, if you choose to feed your snake larger meals and he has no problems with them, make sure you do not feed as often. Safe meal sizes are those that are roughly equal to the same size as the snake's girth. These are digested quicker and can be fed more often than large meals.

<b>What should I feed my boa?</b>
Baby boas can be started on hopper mice and pinky rats. Adult boas can be fed rats or rabbits.

<b>Why won't my boa eat?</b>
Some boas may need a week or so to settle in before they feel comfortable feeding, so it is a good idea to leave them alone in the beginning (although rainbows are typically voracious feeders, this isn't usually the issue). If your boa still won't eat you need to assess the situation carefully. Is your snake sick? If so, a trip to the vet may be in order. If not, are you feeding your boa what it was feeding on before? If so, are your temperatures ok within the cage? What is the humidity? These snakes are very suseptable to low humidity. Is it possible your snake may be feeling "exposed"? Some snakes prefer to have several hides placed in their cages. This is especially noted in open enclosures such as glass terrariums. Is it possible that your snake is being stressed out? Are you handling it a lot or is it an a busy area of the home, or perhaps a family pet is hanging around a lot? Snakes shouldn't be handled until they are feeding reliably.

<b>Is my boa sick?</b>
The most common ailments in captive snakes are parasitic, bacterial and respiratory infections. If your snake is having runny defecations, not eating well, lethargic, underweight (losing weight or having trouble gaining), sitting with it's head facing the sky ("stargazing"), and gaping it's mouth, your snake may be suffering from a parasitic or bacterial infection. A fecal flotation and smear as well as a tracheal wash/culture should be done to determine the exact culprit, and appropriate medicinal treatment should be followed. If your snake is making gurgling sounds from the throat, popping or other obvious breathing sounds, blowing bubbles from the mouth, gaping his/her mouth, "stargazing", and congested with mucus, it likely has a respiratory infection. A culture should be taken to determine the type of antibiotic treatment that would best cure it. During treatment periods, it may be helpful to slightly increase the overall temperatures in the cage (from the above mentioned temperatures) to help "burn" out the sickness, much like a simulated fever.

<b>Why is my boa soaking?</b>
If your boa is soaking in his dish a lot, there may be a few reasons. Mites are a common reason a snake may soak. Do you see little black specks in his water or crawling on your snake? Your snake may also soak if the humidity is too low in the tank and/or he is going in to a shed. Your snake may also be soaking if the temperatures in the cage are too hot. Some rainbows like to soak frequently, but they shouldn't spend all their time there.

<b>How do I get rid of mites?</b>
There are several ways to get rid of mites, each with their own pros and cons. Some of the most popular treatments include Nix lice shampoo (available in your local pharmacy), Black Knight roach killer, Provent-a-Mite (same ingredient as Nix), and Reptile Relief. Regardless of the treatment, the snake should be soaked in water for a little while to rid it of any mites before putting it back in the enclosure (I prefer to add a few drops of Ivory dishsoap to the water - make sure if you add soap, it is very gentle, not antibacterial), and the enclosure should be thoroughly cleaned and disnfected using your choice of cleaning agent and hot water. Mites can get in to, and lay eggs in the tiniest of crevices. If you have any wood, it should be thrown out or baked/boiled to kill any mites/eggs. If you are using decorative setups, it is best to switch to functional setups with only the necessary items and newspaper/paper towel as substrate. Nix should be diluted one bottle to one gallon of water and sprayed over entire enclosure (excluding water bowl). Allow to dry and place the snake (rinsed in clean water if it was soaked in soap) back in the enclosure. Some people recommend keeping a bowl or water in, but during the treatment I feel it is best to leave it out so the snake cannot drag any Nix in to it and drink it. Make sure you offer your snake water once a day if you do this.
With BK it should be sprayed lightly inside enclosure and closed for a bit to allow the aerosols to get in to any crevices. I prefer put substrate over top, but it can also be sprayed over substrate as well. Allow to air out thoroughly before placing snake inside. Again, water bowl should only be placed in after it has thoroughly aired out.