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Old 01-12-04, 04:33 AM   #16
Stockwell
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Join Date: Mar-2003
Location: Ontario Canada
Age: 64
Posts: 1,485
Trev,my lights are on when I'm in the room, and that is often in the middle of the night. There are no windows either, so my room is dark most of the time.
With rack systems the ambient room light is pretty insignificant anyway as it doesn't get into the trays much , as closely stacked trays shade one another,and there is generally wood on 3 sides, so any light from the room is rather subtle to say the least.
Some of my racks are still Jumbo Kitty litter pans
that are solid grey plastic.
With only an inch between trays, no light is getting into them anyways, whether the room light is on or off, they are pretty close to dark all the time.

With my racks, every square inch of them is the exact same temperature because like I said, other than pans that contain gravid female Boids, they have no supplemental heating whatsoever.... Sure the snake can move around, but they aren't really doing much thermoregulating, because the cage is the same temp as the room.
There is none of this hot side, cold side stuff.
Heating the entire room, is the way I have always done it. It's the way most herpers with large collections use to do it, because it's more efficient to control the entire room, and heat tape for local heating, hasn't been around for that long.
And I don't agree that it's non conventional.
I think its all the new hyper sensitive herpers
that fuss way too much that are non-conventional.
Of course I appreciate all the finiky fussing is all done with good intentions, but I feel sometimes the effort is unnesessary.

I can pretty much guarantee you that if you have healthy mature ball pythons,and you temperature condition them properly while providing adequate humidity and food intake, you'll end up with fertile eggs, whether you
have them under Power twist vitalights, or in total darkness.
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